"Larry" wrote in message
...
Two meter troll wrote in
news:393e56bb-0986-4e72-9780-
:

dunno..... from the look of that boat; i would suspect not.
if he is lucky the storms will float him, if he is crazy he will be on
the boat ready to go when it does.
if he has a tug set an pik for him he may be able to pull his boat
off into better water with his anchor winch.
I am crazy so i would have a good pik set and be waiting for the storm.


I can't help thinking about those waterbags from the youtube video hauling
over the top of the mast when the tide comes in and makes the sand fluid.

If you put a steady pressure on the mast to heel the boat over onto its
hull, that would start wiggling the keel buried deep to surface itself off
to the side, putting the weight onto the hull. Once the hull was bearing
the weight, on TOP of the sand, with the waves and tide awashing it all,
shouldn't a towboat be able to just haul her sliding on her hull back into
the water with a little pressure from a tugboat?

Might take a day or two for the pressure to roll her onto her side and pop
the keel free, but that sand awash like that gets soft and mushy with all
that wave action.

Larry is on the right track. A few years ago we grounded on a large flat
submerged rock during a race around Lismore Island, Scotland. Lots of
fellow-racers came to help, but she was stuck fast. A fellow with a 16-foot
dory and 50hp outboard came alongside, took our main halyard, and pulled us
off in about 30seconds. Very little damage done, lead keel scratched,
topsides OK.

I did query whether the halyard was up to the job, but the energy required
to heel the boat and pull her off, when you think about, was not all that
great.

Wait for the next spring tide!

Dennis.

Dennis Pogson wrote:

I did query whether the halyard was up to the job, but the energy
required to heel the boat and pull her off, when you think about, was
not all that great.

The proper way to do this yourself BTW, is to run the end of a rope anchor
rode through a block and attach the block to the spinnaker halyard. Hoist
the block to the mast head and then run the anchor out in the dinghy and set
it. This gives you the full length of the anchor rode to haul on. If you
attach the rode directly to the spinnarker halyard, the knot will stop the
line after a mast length of pulling which may not be sufficient and you will
lose time letting it down and retying. A jib sheet fairlead is a handy
block when time is short.

I successfully got a boat off on a falling tide this way by jumping to it
instantly when I felt her touch. I was doing a pass by a dock to check out
the docking situation and hit a shoal spot beyond it so this frantic
activity was taking place just a few feet from all the waterfront hangers on
which provided great entertainment.

A jib sheet winch with this leverage will drag a boat out of most
situations. I don't think the keel embedded in sand up to the hull is one
of them though. I think that fellow down in Hattaras needs a crane. He may
get his boat off but I doubt he will have running engines or that they will
run for long after they start due due to sand in raw water pumps and shaft
bearings. He doesn't sound like a sailor with the competence to sail out of
that situation once he gets the boat free.

--
Roger Long

"Roger Long" wrote in news:gg3hkt$p9c$1
@news.motzarella.org:

He doesn't sound like a sailor with the competence to sail out of
that situation once he gets the boat free.



Sail? You mean he can put up those big bedsheets in the wind and THAT will
blow it along?!! How cool is that?!

He sounds like one of those sailors that has a keel bottom trawler with
tall lightning rods....with 12,000 hours on the Perky in the bilge.

On Nov 20, 3:28*am, "Roger Long" wrote:
Dennis Pogson wrote:

I did query whether the halyard was up to the job, but the energy
required to heel the boat and pull her off, when you think about, was
not all that great.

The proper way to do this yourself BTW, is to run the end of a rope anchor
rode through a block and attach the block to the spinnaker halyard. *Hoist
the block to the mast head and then run the anchor out in the dinghy and set
it. *This gives you the full length of the anchor rode to haul on. *If you
attach the rode directly to the spinnarker halyard, the knot will stop the
line after a mast length of pulling which may not be sufficient and you will
lose time letting it down and retying. *A jib sheet fairlead is a handy
block when time is short.

I successfully got a boat off on a falling tide this way by jumping to it
instantly when I felt her touch. *I was doing a pass by a dock to check out
the docking situation and hit a shoal spot beyond it so this frantic
activity was taking place just a few feet from all the waterfront hangers on
which provided great entertainment.

A jib sheet winch with this leverage will drag a boat out of most
situations. *I don't think the keel embedded in sand up to the hull is one
of them though. *I think that fellow down in Hattaras needs a crane. *He may
get his boat off but I doubt he will have running engines or that they will
run for long after they start due due to sand in raw water pumps and shaft
bearings. *He doesn't sound like a sailor with the competence to sail out of
that situation once he gets the boat free.

--
Roger Long

the picture looks to me like she is in the sand to deep to lay her
over. the last pic didnt have lines one it and she was dead level.

He doesn't sound like a sailor with the competence to sail out of
that situation once he gets the boat free.

Certainly not one properly insured against said lack of competence.

"Dennis Pogson" wrote in news:KdbVk.94625
:

Larry is on the right track.

We ground boats, intentionally, on the pluff mud, around Charleston all the
time. Some people do it to keep from paying a diver just to clean her
bottom. Some repaint the antifouling like this cheap!

NO CHARGE for lift, storage, yard use, save big $$$$$$!

Check the rudder, fittings and driving gear between when the paint job's
done and the tide floods you out.

Rebait the crab traps beyond the low tide line for dinner....(c;
You're already all mud from walking in it all day....

P U!! YOU STINK!

(Some say it smells like money saved!)

Problem with this sailboat is that, once through the initial breakers, he's
going to find a really long sand bar that parallels the beach about 75 yards
out. The other thing is, if you've ever seen Hatteras during a storm you
would come to the conclusion that launching is not an option during a storm.
I used to windsurf out there with my buddies during some of the milder
Noreasters and I can honestly say those breakers on the outer bars will
pitch upwards of 15 feet. If they're 'barrelling' they'll suck the sand bar
shallow.

Alan

"Larry" wrote in message
...
"Dennis Pogson" wrote in news:KdbVk.94625
:

Larry is on the right track.

We ground boats, intentionally, on the pluff mud, around Charleston all
the
time. Some people do it to keep from paying a diver just to clean her
bottom. Some repaint the antifouling like this cheap!

NO CHARGE for lift, storage, yard use, save big $$$$$$!

Check the rudder, fittings and driving gear between when the paint job's
done and the tide floods you out.

Rebait the crab traps beyond the low tide line for dinner....(c;
You're already all mud from walking in it all day....

P U!! YOU STINK!

(Some say it smells like money saved!)



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On Nov 20, 8:14*am, "Alan White"
wrote:
Problem with this sailboat is that, once through the initial breakers, he's
going to find a really long sand bar that parallels the beach about 75 yards
out. The other thing is, if you've ever seen Hatteras during a storm you
would come to the conclusion that launching is not an option during a storm.
I used to windsurf out there with my buddies during some of the milder
Noreasters and I can honestly say those breakers on the outer bars will
pitch upwards of 15 feet. If they're 'barrelling' they'll suck the sand bar
shallow.

Alan

"Larry" wrote in message

...





"Dennis Pogson" wrote in news:KdbVk.94625
:

Larry is on the right track.

We ground boats, intentionally, on the pluff mud, around Charleston all
the
time. *Some people do it to keep from paying a diver just to clean her
bottom. *Some repaint the antifouling like this cheap!

NO CHARGE for lift, storage, yard use, save big $$$$$$!

Check the rudder, fittings and driving gear between when the paint job's
done and the tide floods you out.

Rebait the crab traps beyond the low tide line for dinner....(c;
You're already all mud from walking in it all day....

P U!! *YOU STINK!

(Some say it smells like money saved!)

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ya and it didnt impress me.
if he can get the boat into the channel he has water under him.
currently he could farm the area around his boat.

"Gogarty" wrote in message
...
In article ,
of 15 feet. If they're 'barrelling' they'll suck the sand bar
shallow.

I wonder what his insurance status is? Would not surprise me at all if the
boat became a total loss.


It might take a few days, but with constant pressure on the winch, along
with the wave motion, and perhaps a little digging in front of the keel,
like a loose tooth it might wiggle free. The key would be to keep constant
and hard pressure on the line that's being used to pull. And, of course,
the balls hanging from the halyard wouldn't hurt.

Alan


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"Gogarty" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...
Problem with this sailboat is that, once through the initial breakers,
he's
going to find a really long sand bar that parallels the beach about 75
yards
out. The other thing is, if you've ever seen Hatteras during a storm you
would come to the conclusion that launching is not an option during a
storm.
I used to windsurf out there with my buddies during some of the milder
Noreasters and I can honestly say those breakers on the outer bars will
pitch upwards of 15 feet. If they're 'barrelling' they'll suck the sand
bar
shallow.

I wonder what his insurance status is? Would not surprise me at all if the
boat became a total loss.


Here're some more pics:
http://live2sail.blogspot.com/2008/1...-atlantic.html

Alan


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