the biggest issue will be the floor mounting bolt pattern and the hose
connection locations - these 2 can take a lot of time and work. If
it's that old - maybe the floor under has problems and needs to be
redone or at least properly refinished, maybe the hoses have problems
and need to be replaced, ... A friend replaced to Raritan PH heads
with 2 new PHII heads - he was assured by Raritan that the floor bolt
patterns were identical - well - almost - but that 1/2" is a big deal
when the bolts are glassed in from the back and there's no access
except by sawing it all up.

Far easier and cheaper to repair the existing setup. check the outlet
hose to see there's no buildup on the inside - if there is - remove
the hose and beat it on dock to get out most and clean rest with acid.
replace the joker valve and try it from there.



Second question: What's the best way to handle the different floor
mounting bolts, or will they be different?

The boat was a liveaboard and the toilet seems to be plumbed correctly,
from what I can tell having read the archives here.

Thanks!

Stephen

santacruz wrote:
A friend replaced to Raritan PH heads
with 2 new PHII heads - he was assured by Raritan that the floor bolt
patterns were identical - well - almost - but that 1/2" is a big deal
when the bolts are glassed in from the back and there's no access
except by sawing it all up.

The bolts never should have been glassed in...but builders as well as
owners do some really stupid things when it comes to sanitation
plumbing. However, the job would have been a lot easier if, instead of
sawing it all up, he'd used a hole saw slightly larger than the bolts to
get the bolts out, then filled the holes with epoxy or other appropriate
fiberglass filler.


check the outlet
hose to see there's no buildup on the inside - if there is - remove
the hose and beat it on dock to get out most and clean rest with acid.

NO need to remove the hose...a few applications of undiluted white
vinegar down the toilet will disssolve a mild buildup...a 12% solution
of muriatic acid and water will dissolve a bad case, in the hose AND the
pump. Wait about 45 minutes, then flush all the acid out with clean water.

replace the joker valve and try it from there.

Joker valves should be replaced annually.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1

Regarding my question about replacing my toilet, santacruz wrote:


[...]
replace the joker valve and try it from there.

Okay, you guys have convinced me to at least tear apart the toilet to
see if I can fix it. If there's one thing I'm good at, it's tearing
things apart! ;-)

Where will I find this nasty joker valve?

Stephen

Stephen Trapani wrote:

Okay, you guys have convinced me to at least tear apart the toilet to
see if I can fix it.

Unless you discover rubber seals, o-rings etc that have distintegrated,
there's not much inside a pump that CAN be fixed. Either replacing all
those doodads works, or it doesn't. Btw, what seems to be wrong with
it...what are the symptoms?

If there's one thing I'm good at, it's tearing
things apart! ;-)

Where will I find this nasty joker valve?

Inside the discharge fitting that bolts onto the pump, connecting the
head discharge hose to the toilet. It's just a round rubber cup-shaped
thingy that has a slit in the bottom and "lips" on the outside of
it...and a flange that acts as the gasket between the discharge fitting
and the pump body. It has nothing to do with the operation of the
pump...its sole function is to prevent backflow from an overfull tank or
clogged head discharge hose from flooding the bowl.

And that question make it pretty obvious that the first thing you need
BEFORE you try to take the pump apart is an exploded drawing of the
toilet pump, 'cuz if you don't know what a joker valve is, you won't
know what anything else is or where it goes either. If your toilet is
the current HF model, the drawing is he
http://www.groco.net/parts/data/508.pdf If it's old enough to be an HC
or HE, you'll have to call Groco for one: 410-712-4242.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1