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#21
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"Gordon" wrote in message
m... This whole subject could be easily put to bed by calling your local fuel polisher and asking the age of boats that need polishing. I think you'll find all the 70's and 80's need cleaning and the 90's will need cleaning in the next few years. Anything newer and there is no problem. Meaning that if your system is clean, it's probably good for 20 years. At least, that's the way it is in the Puget Sound area. I suppose warmer, more humid areas could be worse. That said, I run dual Racors mainly because they were freebies and my neighbor polished my fuel when I installed the Racors. Gordon This is exactly what the guy with 30+ years of experience said on Saturday. My boat/tank is over 30 years old and doesn't have dual. I haven't and neither did the original owner keep the tank topped off. I've never had a bacterial contamination issue, but I would certainly like to avoid one. It was recommended to add a dual, add a biocide, add a cetane enhancer, and try to keep the tank topped. I think I'll take his recommendations, given his years of experience and world-wide reputation. No put down on anyone else intended. But, I think I'll use the Occam's Razor approach. His advice is simple and makes sense. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#22
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On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 20:39:13 -0500, "Roger Long"
wrote: That constantly replenishing emergency tank idea of yours is one of the best I've seen in this group. I'm still trying to figure out how I might implement it but space, even for just the gallon I would need, is pretty tight in a 32 foot boat. I think it's very long odds that that the big Shelco filter would suddenly load up. I would have advance warning from the Racor flow stopping and it ought to take a lot longer for the Shelco to become critical. If I had to change out a Racor filter, I would focus on getting into a safer position. I also have two tanks so switching to the other one as well as switching the fuel supply to the polishing output would be part of the drill if the Racor loaded up. I'm a sailboat as well so I usually have an alternative propulsion source. A friend built a day tank in his old boat. He used a small electric fuel pump as a transfer pump to fill the tank and piped the overflow/breather line back to his main fuel tank. He said he usually remembered to turn the transfer pump off but if he didn't the overflow just returned to the main tank. Cheers, Bruce (bpaige125atgmaildotcom) |
#23
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Capt. JG" wrote
This is exactly what the guy with 30+ years of experience said on Saturday. It was recommended to add a dual (filter).... So you are going to add that second filter ARE you not? In view of the high current conditions in SF Bay and your responsibility to your students I'd hate to be you if something happened due to fuel contamination after posting that you were aware of this recommendation. While you are at it, consider this: I think my system has gotten a bad rap for complexity due to the dual tanks which does drive up the cost and complexity a lot. Here is what it would look like in yours or the typical single tank boat: http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/1tankFOsystem.gif The Shelco Filter was about the same cost as a Racor. The second pump was about 60 bucks and is also a good redundancy feature. This redundancy would be especially desirable in a boat with a low mounted tank that will not gravity feed. Otherwise, there are only one or two additional valves and a few fittings more than in the dual filter system. The cost difference is insignificant in boat bucks. Fuel contamination and degradation is always going on to some extent. This system is constantly removing it whenever the engine is running. The system will filter a volume equal to the typical sailboat tank every hour of running time. Your dual filter OTOH is just sitting there doing nothing useful. Fuel flow at the tank inlet is vastly greater than in the typical system. This increases the uptake of water and anything else floating around in the bottom of the tank waiting for rough water and a tight spot to get sucked into the system at the worst possible time. Since most of the fuel is going through the polishing filter and being returned to the tank, getting this stuff into the fuel system is a good thing. In the event of the primary filter (Racor on the drawing) loading up, OR the primary fuel pump failing, just turn one valve and you are back in business with full fuel flow. Some tank configurations or engine driven fuel pump problems may require partially or completely closing the second valve. In any event, it doesn't take any longer than switching filters. Let's say you do pick up a load of bad fuel and calling a fuel polishing contractor isn't an option either because you are cruising or there isn't one as is now the case here in Portland. (BTW, none of this has anything to do with an old and neglected tank that has gotten thouroughly coated and filled with slime. That's a different issue all together.) Duel Filter Setup: Switch filter. Change first filter element - 16 bucks. Run for a while. Repeat as often as necessary at about 16 bucks a filter element. The only way to get fuel flow is to run the engine That means doing these repeated and expensive filter changes underway or with the engine running at the dock and sucking very little fuel. With an engine the size you have on your boat, it will take 20 - 30 hours to run all the fuel through the filters. And, you have to consume it which adds to the expense. Polishing Setup: Turn red valve and isolation valve if necessary and deal with it when you get back to the dock. The high capacity of the Shelco makes its load up time much higher than the Racor or similary filter. You can change it's two buck element while the engine runs on the Racor, just as on a dual filter system if it does load up. When you get back to the dock, you can plug into shore power and let the polishing system run with the engine off, changing two dollar filter elements as necessary. Based on the amount of crud I found in my Shelco and the pristine condition of the sediment bowl in my Racor, I would say loading up of the Racor is unlikely in any event. Here's a challenge. Usually after you've taken a seminar like the one you just did, they will entertain a few follow up questions. Take this schematic to your guy and let us know what he thinks. -- Roger Long |
#24
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Roger Long" wrote in message
... "Capt. JG" wrote This is exactly what the guy with 30+ years of experience said on Saturday. It was recommended to add a dual (filter).... So you are going to add that second filter ARE you not? In view of the high current conditions in SF Bay and your responsibility to your students I'd hate to be you if something happened due to fuel contamination after posting that you were aware of this recommendation. I probably will. I need to haul out in the next couple of months, and given "fandamily" stuff coming up... Turkey/Xmas, I probably won't be teaching on her until after the haul. The thing is... I don't really use the engine all that much during much of a class. I'm pretty careful about doing all the preliminary checks, which are part of the typical class. The basic class I teach has the first 1/2 day + as engine awareness/use, and for that we're typically in and around a marina. The only time the engine has quit unexpectedly was when a student throttled back so much that the engine died... throttle is the kill switch for my boat. This actually happend during the last class when we were practicing motoring up to and stopping at a mooring. Engine quit, no problem. I popped the jib and we sailed off in two seconds flat. While you are at it, consider this: I think my system has gotten a bad rap for complexity due to the dual tanks which does drive up the cost and complexity a lot. Here is what it would look like in yours or the typical single tank boat: http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/1tankFOsystem.gif The Shelco Filter was about the same cost as a Racor. The second pump was about 60 bucks and is also a good redundancy feature. This redundancy would be especially desirable in a boat with a low mounted tank that will not gravity feed. Otherwise, there are only one or two additional valves and a few fittings more than in the dual filter system. The cost difference is insignificant in boat bucks. Fuel contamination and degradation is always going on to some extent. This system is constantly removing it whenever the engine is running. The system will filter a volume equal to the typical sailboat tank every hour of running time. Your dual filter OTOH is just sitting there doing nothing useful. Fuel flow at the tank inlet is vastly greater than in the typical system. This increases the uptake of water and anything else floating around in the bottom of the tank waiting for rough water and a tight spot to get sucked into the system at the worst possible time. Since most of the fuel is going through the polishing filter and being returned to the tank, getting this stuff into the fuel system is a good thing. True, but in the SF bay, "rough" sailing (bouncing around) is pretty typical. Always looking for the zephyr, but... well, it happens, hopefully around lunch time. LOL In the event of the primary filter (Racor on the drawing) loading up, OR the primary fuel pump failing, just turn one valve and you are back in business with full fuel flow. Some tank configurations or engine driven fuel pump problems may require partially or completely closing the second valve. In any event, it doesn't take any longer than switching filters. Let's say you do pick up a load of bad fuel and calling a fuel polishing contractor isn't an option either because you are cruising or there isn't one as is now the case here in Portland. (BTW, none of this has anything to do with an old and neglected tank that has gotten thouroughly coated and filled with slime. That's a different issue all together.) Geez... I hope not around here. The big issue is whether or not the fuel pump attendant is around so I can pay him. Early in the summer, he wasn't... pumps were unlocked and there were two of us standing around for a while to see if he would return. Finally, we just left the cash in the office (also unlocked). Last I pulled the single filter from the primary, I almost didn't replace it because it looked so good... Duel Filter Setup: Switch filter. Change first filter element - 16 bucks. Run for a while. Repeat as often as necessary at about 16 bucks a filter element. The only way to get fuel flow is to run the engine That means doing these repeated and expensive filter changes underway or with the engine running at the dock and sucking very little fuel. With an engine the size you have on your boat, it will take 20 - 30 hours to run all the fuel through the filters. And, you have to consume it which adds to the expense. Polishing Setup: Turn red valve and isolation valve if necessary and deal with it when you get back to the dock. The high capacity of the Shelco makes its load up time much higher than the Racor or similary filter. You can change it's two buck element while the engine runs on the Racor, just as on a dual filter system if it does load up. When you get back to the dock, you can plug into shore power and let the polishing system run with the engine off, changing two dollar filter elements as necessary. Based on the amount of crud I found in my Shelco and the pristine condition of the sediment bowl in my Racor, I would say loading up of the Racor is unlikely in any event. Here's a challenge. Usually after you've taken a seminar like the one you just did, they will entertain a few follow up questions. Take this schematic to your guy and let us know what he thinks. I'll see what I can do. I copied out the schematic and I'll email it to him, along with your explanation. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#25
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Nov 17, 6:04*am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"Capt. JG" wrote This is exactly what the guy with 30+ years of experience said on Saturday. It was recommended to add a dual (filter).... So you are going to add that second filter ARE you not? *In view of the high current conditions in SF Bay and your responsibility to your students I'd hate to be you if something happened due to fuel contamination after posting that you were aware of this recommendation. While you are at it, consider this: I think my system has gotten a bad rap for complexity due to the dual tanks which does drive up the cost and complexity a lot. *Here is what it would look like in yours or the typical single tank boat: http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/1tankFOsystem.gif The Shelco Filter was about the same cost as a Racor. *The second pump was about 60 bucks and is also a good redundancy feature. *This redundancy would be especially desirable in a boat with a low mounted tank that will not gravity feed. * Otherwise, there are only one or two additional valves and a few fittings more than in the dual filter system. The cost difference is insignificant in boat bucks. Fuel contamination and degradation is always going on to some extent. *This system is constantly removing it whenever the engine is running. *The system will filter a volume equal to the typical sailboat tank every hour of running time. *Your dual filter OTOH is just sitting there doing nothing useful. Fuel flow at the tank inlet is vastly greater than in the typical system. This increases the uptake of water and anything else floating around in the bottom of the tank waiting for rough water and a tight spot to get sucked into the system at the worst possible time. *Since most of the fuel is going through the polishing filter and being returned to the tank, getting this stuff into the fuel system is a good thing. In the event of the primary filter (Racor on the drawing) loading up, OR the primary fuel pump failing, just turn one valve and you are back in business with full fuel flow. *Some tank configurations or engine driven fuel pump problems may require partially or completely closing the second valve. *In any event, it doesn't take any longer than switching filters. Let's say you do pick up a load of bad fuel and calling a fuel polishing contractor isn't an option either because you are cruising or there isn't one as is now the case here in Portland. * (BTW, none of this has anything to do with an old and neglected tank that has gotten thouroughly coated and filled with slime. *That's a different issue all together.) Duel Filter Setup: Switch filter. Change first filter element - 16 bucks. Run for a while. Repeat as often as necessary at about 16 bucks a filter element. The only way to get fuel flow is to run the engine *That means doing these repeated and expensive filter changes underway or with the engine running at the dock and sucking very little fuel. *With an engine the size you have on your boat, it will take 20 - 30 hours to run all the fuel through the filters. *And, you have to consume it which adds to the expense. Polishing Setup: Turn red valve and isolation valve if necessary and deal with it when you get back to the dock. *The high capacity of the Shelco makes its load up time much higher than the Racor or similary filter. *You can change it's two buck element while the engine runs on the Racor, just as on a dual filter system if it does load up. When you get back to the dock, you can plug into shore power and let the polishing system run with the engine off, changing two dollar filter elements as necessary. Based on the amount of crud I found in my Shelco and the pristine condition of the sediment bowl in my Racor, I would say loading up of the Racor is unlikely in any event. Here's a challenge. *Usually after you've taken a seminar like the one you just did, they will entertain a few follow up questions. *Take this schematic to your guy and let us know what he thinks. -- Roger Long Roger why not double the filters and install a two position Y valve them so you can shut off the clogged filter and run through a new instead of trying to change out while running? |
#26
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Two meter troll" wrote
Roger, why not double the filters and install a two position Y valve them so you can shut off the clogged filter and run through a new instead of trying to change out while running? Did you read the post? The boat will run on the Shelco filter and polishing pump until that filter loads up which will take a lot, lot, longer than a second Racor to become non-functional. Or, do you mean having 4 filters? -- Roger Long |
#27
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On 2008-11-16 22:48:36 -0500, Gordon said:
I think you'll find all the 70's and 80's need cleaning and the 90's will need cleaning in the next few years. Anything newer and there is no problem. Meaning that if your system is clean, it's probably good for 20 years. At least, that's the way it is in the Puget Sound area. I suppose warmer, more humid areas could be worse. It's not that cut-and-dry. I had occasion to empty our tank to put in fuel level sensors and such for a few seasons. In one early-half season, we picked up enough bugs to clog our filter, but once that lot was filtered out, we've not had a problem. A season or two later, it was still bright and shiny. I expect we've a few bugs at the moment, but I don't think we've used 20 gallons (from a 15 gallon tank) in 3 seasons. Lots of time to breed the critters. Turn-over, biocide, and filtering all contribute to cleanliness; the obverse is also true. Amending slightly: Roger's experience from lots of turnover indicates to me that he got some gunky stuff from the supplying fuel tanks. As much as he burned, there really wasn't that much time to breed the critters onboard. -- Jere Lull Xan-à-Deux -- Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
#28
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"Jere Lull" wrote
Amending slightly: Roger's experience from lots of turnover indicates to me that he got some gunky stuff from the supplying fuel tanks. As much as he burned, there really wasn't that much time to breed the critters onboard. I strongly suspect that is the case. One of the last loads of the season was from a looong marina hose. There was probably the half tank I put in just in the hose alone which had been sitting out in the sun since the last boat came along. It was late in the year and the dock attendant mentioned that it had been a while since anyone came in for diesel. This is exactly the situation that prompted the installation. When I get to where fuel docks are few and far between, I might have to take on a load even if it looks funky. Or, the sample might look good and bad stuff comes down the hose later. With the standard filter set up, even if dual, there is no choice but to filter it all at the engine consumption rate, burn it immediately after it goes through the filter, and change filters through the whole tank. People have used up enough Racor filter elements in these cases to pay for my Shelco filter and the second pump. The one drawback of my system is that, in an extreme case, both filters could plug up with nothing to switch to. The Shelco has very high retention capacity though compared to the Racor. The Racor would almost certainly plug first in that case and I would open the bypass from the polishing system. Extra caution right after fueling and attention to the gauges on the filters before getting into a critical situation should be SOP with either system. If I do find I have a problem, it can be dealt with without having to run fuel through the engine or even having the engine running and I can get multiple passes through the filter before sending fuel to the engine. That's the real beauty of the system. -- Roger Long |
#29
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Tue, 18 Nov 2008 13:48:43 -0500, "Roger Long"
wrote: This is exactly the situation that prompted the installation. When I get to where fuel docks are few and far between, I might have to take on a load even if it looks funky. Get thee a Baja Filter or West Marine's equivalent. They were designed for taking on suspect fuel in funky locations: http://www.practical-sailor.com/sample/Fuelfilter.html |
#30
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"Wayne.B" wrote
Get thee a Baja Filter or West Marine's equivalent. They were designed for taking on suspect fuel in funky locations: http://www.practical-sailor.com/sample/Fuelfilter.html I've got one (West) but it's hard to use on my boat and busy fuel docks aren't always happy with the extra fueling time. There are also ways contamination can get in. They take out water but I'm not sure about fungal spores which can also come in the vent. -- Roger Long |
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