Ok... It looks like I am going to have to junk my fiberglass bass boat.
Over the last few months I have been doing a repair and rebuild project on
an aluminum bass boat that had been wreched. I bought it for less than
salvage. Now I am looking for a decent bass boat design for a bigger water
bass boat.

I figure outboards are the most expensive part of most small craft. Add in
rigging and the hull is almost an afterthought for some. Anyway. I am
looking for designs to take advatage of the outboards and riggingI already
have. I've got a great condition (mechanically) Black Max 150 and a good
condition Optimax 225. Being a psychotic ego tripping speed junky bass
fisherman I am ideally looking for designs that will have a max HP rating
similar to the motors I have available to put on them. What I have found is
that either the designs available are not ideal for a bass fishing layout or
they aren't available in the max HP range I am looking for. I did notice
that several designer underated the HP when you plug in the formulas from
the backyard boat builder pamphlet from the Coast Guard, but I really
hesitate to deviate from the HP ratings of the designer.

I am specifically looking for aluminum designs.

I have also considered buying a couple designs and then using them to derive
my own design and rate it myself.

On Nov 3, 11:05*am, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
Ok... *It looks like I am going to have to junk my fiberglass bass boat..
Over the last few months I have been doing a repair and rebuild project on
an aluminum bass boat that had been wreched. *I bought it for less than
salvage. *Now I am looking for a decent bass boat design for a bigger water
bass boat.

I figure outboards are the most expensive part of most small craft. *Add in
rigging and the hull is almost an afterthought for some. *Anyway. *I am
looking for designs to take advatage of the outboards and riggingI already
have. *I've got a great condition (mechanically) Black Max 150 and a good
condition Optimax 225. *Being a psychotic ego tripping speed junky bass
fisherman I am ideally looking for designs that will have a max HP rating
similar to the motors I have available to put on them. *What I have found is
that either the designs available are not ideal for a bass fishing layout or
they aren't available in the max HP range I am looking for. *I did notice
that several designer underated the HP when you plug in the formulas from
the backyard boat builder pamphlet from the Coast Guard, but I really
hesitate to deviate from the HP ratings of the designer.

I am specifically looking for aluminum designs.

I have also considered buying a couple designs and then using them to derive
my own design and rate it myself.

simply build a sled. with that much power any boat that is going to
actually be in the water is going to be slower and if you want
controllable you are gonna have to put some hull in.
for the most part you got ustable and fast or stable and slow
its the space in between that you can play with.
a simple john boat with a bit of a keel under it IMO would give you
the lightest and most stable boat with some directional controll. its
not gonna look futuristic or as stupid as the new bass boat from sea
spray but its going to out fly almost anything on the water in the
same power class. the plans are easy to get, you can fit it and weld
it in an afternoon, then all you are working on for the rest of the
week is fitting it with interior. that might take you another day or
two. my one recommendation is to tack pad eyes in the ends of the
exact centerline of the hull and make sure each bit of stuff you put
on is balanced. i see way to many boats listing and hogging these days.

"Two meter troll" wrote in message
...
On Nov 3, 11:05 am, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
Ok... It looks like I am going to have to junk my fiberglass bass boat.
Over the last few months I have been doing a repair and rebuild project on
an aluminum bass boat that had been wreched. I bought it for less than
salvage. Now I am looking for a decent bass boat design for a bigger water
bass boat.

I figure outboards are the most expensive part of most small craft. Add in
rigging and the hull is almost an afterthought for some. Anyway. I am
looking for designs to take advatage of the outboards and riggingI already
have. I've got a great condition (mechanically) Black Max 150 and a good
condition Optimax 225. Being a psychotic ego tripping speed junky bass
fisherman I am ideally looking for designs that will have a max HP rating
similar to the motors I have available to put on them. What I have found
is
that either the designs available are not ideal for a bass fishing layout
or
they aren't available in the max HP range I am looking for. I did notice
that several designer underated the HP when you plug in the formulas from
the backyard boat builder pamphlet from the Coast Guard, but I really
hesitate to deviate from the HP ratings of the designer.

I am specifically looking for aluminum designs.

I have also considered buying a couple designs and then using them to
derive
my own design and rate it myself.

simply build a sled. with that much power any boat that is going to
actually be in the water is going to be slower and if you want
controllable you are gonna have to put some hull in.
for the most part you got ustable and fast or stable and slow
its the space in between that you can play with.
a simple john boat with a bit of a keel under it IMO would give you
the lightest and most stable boat with some directional controll. its
not gonna look futuristic or as stupid as the new bass boat from sea
spray but its going to out fly almost anything on the water in the
same power class. the plans are easy to get, you can fit it and weld
it in an afternoon, then all you are working on for the rest of the
week is fitting it with interior. that might take you another day or
two. my one recommendation is to tack pad eyes in the ends of the
exact centerline of the hull and make sure each bit of stuff you put
on is balanced. i see way to many boats listing and hogging these days.

I was thinking a shallow V with relatively straight lines to start with. I
actually have two smaller flat bottoms and I know how scary they can be if
you need to turn in a hurry. You definitely use your throttle and trim to
manuever with either one of those. If I thought the geometry was within my
capabilities I would try and come up with a medium V design with a racing
pad. For big water you just slow down enough to let the hull engage the
water. That's basically what I did with my glass boat. Ran like my hair
was on fire and I was trying to blow it out in light chop, and slowed her
down under 50 in bigger water.

Bob,
As an experienced boat owner, you have learned that the hull is the least
expensive part of any boat. Congratulations, that is a lesson that is often
learned the hard way and the primary cause of incomplete or failed boat
building projects. Here is the next lesson. Go see an architect. The small
extra cost this entails is well worth it.
Steve

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Ok... It looks like I am going to have to junk my fiberglass bass boat.
Over the last few months I have been doing a repair and rebuild project on
an aluminum bass boat that had been wreched. I bought it for less than
salvage. Now I am looking for a decent bass boat design for a bigger
water bass boat.

I figure outboards are the most expensive part of most small craft. Add
in rigging and the hull is almost an afterthought for some. Anyway. I am
looking for designs to take advatage of the outboards and riggingI already
have. I've got a great condition (mechanically) Black Max 150 and a good
condition Optimax 225. Being a psychotic ego tripping speed junky bass
fisherman I am ideally looking for designs that will have a max HP rating
similar to the motors I have available to put on them. What I have found
is that either the designs available are not ideal for a bass fishing
layout or they aren't available in the max HP range I am looking for. I
did notice that several designer underated the HP when you plug in the
formulas from the backyard boat builder pamphlet from the Coast Guard, but
I really hesitate to deviate from the HP ratings of the designer.

I am specifically looking for aluminum designs.

I have also considered buying a couple designs and then using them to
derive my own design and rate it myself.

On Nov 4, 4:46*am, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
Bob,
As an experienced boat owner, you have learned that the hull is the least
expensive part of any boat. Congratulations, that is a lesson that is often
learned the hard way and the primary cause of incomplete or failed boat
building projects. Here is the next lesson. Go see an architect. The small
extra cost this entails is well worth it.
Steve

"Bob La Londe" wrote in ...



Ok... *It looks like I am going to have to junk my fiberglass bass boat.
Over the last few months I have been doing a repair and rebuild project on
an aluminum bass boat that had been wreched. *I bought it for less than
salvage. *Now I am looking for a decent bass boat design for a bigger
water bass boat.

I figure outboards are the most expensive part of most small craft. *Add
in rigging and the hull is almost an afterthought for some. *Anyway. *I am
looking for designs to take advatage of the outboards and riggingI already
have. *I've got a great condition (mechanically) Black Max 150 and a good
condition Optimax 225. *Being a psychotic ego tripping speed junky bass
fisherman I am ideally looking for designs that will have a max HP rating
similar to the motors I have available to put on them. *What I have found
is that either the designs available are not ideal for a bass fishing
layout or they aren't available in the max HP range I am looking for. *I
did notice that several designer underated the HP when you plug in the
formulas from the backyard boat builder pamphlet from the Coast Guard, but
I really hesitate to deviate from the HP ratings of the designer.

I am specifically looking for aluminum designs.

I have also considered buying a couple designs and then using them to
derive my own design and rate it myself.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I agree with Steve with a modification; get the plan you want and take
it to the architect and let them vet it.
talk to the fella and have him step you through his decision making
process and changes. Don't get in the trap of letting the fella plan
your boat for you, but take his advice with a grain of salt.
if it is load calculations on a deck beam or the proper displacment
where his training is applicable thats cool he's the expert. when it
comes to his opinion you arent paying him for an opinion.

A marine archetect's job is to check the math and make sure the boat
is structurally safe and will float with the loads and power intended
in the conditions the boat will most likely encounter and run throught
the systems the see if they are of the specs required. these days the
fella could probly match your seats with the floatation devices. that
is it no more no less.