On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 06:46:33 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 04:52:02 GMT, "Island Teak" wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 01:41:02 GMT, "Island Teak"
wrote:



I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several
inquiries
regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak
deck.
Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or
the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the
subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then
rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to
adhere the new 1/4" decking to.

Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over
an existing teak deck ? Especially interested if someone has done this
10
years ago.


Two issues come to mind:

Teak decks are pretty heavy, and adding more weight that high up in the
boat is
probably not a great idea.

First off teak is not a heavy hardwood. A square foot of 1/4" x 1-5/8" teak
weighs 14 ounces.

Teak decks are heavy. When replacement time arrives, many sailors wisely remove
the teak and simply leave it off. For cruisers, that gives them extra capacity
for things that they DO need without raising the waterline. I'd rather have 400
pounds of water, or a bigger battery bank,(both lower in the hull) than 400
pounds of teak on the deck.

I think an engine for a sail boat should have enough power to reach
hull speed into a 25 MPH wind. Many boats have too small an engine.
More batteries, fuel, or water is always good, if the.motor is already
big enough. Of course, more power is probably more trouble and money
than it is worth.

On Jan 5, 5:41*pm, "Island Teak" wrote:
I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several inquiries
regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak deck..
Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or
the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the
subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then
rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to
adhere the new 1/4" decking to.

Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over
an existing teak deck ? * Especially interested if someone has done this 10
years ago.

* * * * * * * * .......Ken

I have a 1949 Chris Craft 33foot DeLuxe Enclosed Cruiser.
I hate carpet on boats if it isn't snap-in. I only like snap-in cause
it can be removed and cleaned off the boat, dried in the
sun, coated with scotchguard and put back in the boat, also it can be
removed for winter storage.
Also, after working for Olympic Boat Center and going on the tours of
Bayliner factories, I found that any carpeting from the factory is
the cheapest, most worthless carpet on the planet. But the carpet they
give you makes really good patterns to make your own.
And altogether, your looking at, what, 4-6 yards of really nice stuff,
to make your feet really happy?
And it isn't very technical either.
But I took all the carpet out of the saloon and put in 5/8 quartersawn
tongue in groove, white oak.
A bigger job than I thought.
But boy, do the lookylou's like it!!

On Jan 6, 3:59*pm, wrote:
On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 01:41:02 GMT, "Island Teak" wrote:

I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several inquiries
regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak deck.
Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or
the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the
subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then
rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to
adhere the new 1/4" decking to.

Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over
an existing teak deck ? * Especially interested if someone has done this 10
years ago.

Two issues come to mind:

Teak decks are pretty heavy, and adding more weight that high up in the boat is
probably not a great idea.

By the time a teak deck needs replacement, there are usually issues UNDER it
that need attention.

So far I have done quarersawn white oak over plywood and red oak
parquet over plywood on another boat.
I did the parquet red oak because I was stupid and it was cheap at
Home Depot.
It will work after saturating it with 5 gallons of penitration epoxy
and then coating the deck with $300 worth of
two part marine epoxy.
Yes...I know, really stupid. But I am sharing this in case another
boat lover is thinking about taking that ratty carpet out
of the boat they are restoring and putting a nice deck over the
plywood.
I was told that bamboo flooring wouldn't work, because you can't glue
it down. Bamboo shrinks and expands so much that a floor
has to be floated.
I am a wooden boat guy, and I believe that carpet in a wooden boat
causes mildew, and rot. It stops air circulation and gets
heavier and heavier over time.
Does anyone know what the best carpet for boat interior or exterior
that can be snapped in, and doesn't mildew?

Richard Casady wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 06:46:33 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 04:52:02 GMT, "Island Teak" wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 01:41:02 GMT, "Island Teak"
wrote:


I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several
inquiries
regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak
deck.
Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or
the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the
subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then
rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to
adhere the new 1/4" decking to.

Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over
an existing teak deck ? Especially interested if someone has done this
10
years ago.

Two issues come to mind:

Teak decks are pretty heavy, and adding more weight that high up in the
boat is
probably not a great idea.
First off teak is not a heavy hardwood. A square foot of 1/4" x 1-5/8" teak
weighs 14 ounces.
Teak decks are heavy. When replacement time arrives, many sailors wisely remove
the teak and simply leave it off. For cruisers, that gives them extra capacity
for things that they DO need without raising the waterline. I'd rather have 400
pounds of water, or a bigger battery bank,(both lower in the hull) than 400
pounds of teak on the deck.

I think an engine for a sail boat should have enough power to reach
hull speed into a 25 MPH wind. Many boats have too small an engine.
More batteries, fuel, or water is always good, if the.motor is already
big enough. Of course, more power is probably more trouble and money
than it is worth.


Wow, hull speed into 25 knots of wind. That's a lot of power.

It would be impossible to power at hull speed into a 25 knot wind, and
the seas that much wind kicks up.

On Tue, 08 Jan 2008 18:55:46 -0800, Jim wrote:

Wow, hull speed into 25 knots of wind. That's a lot of power.

Of course it isn't. Remember, power required varies with the cube of
the speed, and hull speed just isn't fast. I figure maybe 100 HP for a
thirty foot boat. Maybe less.
It's the fifteen horse motors I object to. Battleships won't do hull
speed on 1 to 4 HP per ton either. I am guessing you can get
three times what is average, for not too much space and weight.

It would be impossible to power at hull speed into a 25 knot wind, and
the seas that much wind kicks up.

Of course it is possible, it just takes sufficient power. You can get
500 HP out of a ton or so of diesel machinery. Many modern engines,
Yanmars for example, put out more than one HP per cubic inch. It is
certainly possible and the fact that most boats won't do it is rather
the point of my post. I figure you can live with a ten percent mileage
penalty with the bigger motor.


If there is enough room for large waves to kick up, you can generally
sail. I had in mind up a narrow river channel against wind, current,
and tide. Places like the inside passage to Alaska, more motor might
be handy.

I have done lots of sailing, not cruising, in more than 25 MPH of wind
and 2 to 3 foot waves. I used to launch a Sunfish off the beach into a
25 MPH wind. You waded out to where the water was deep enough to lower
the daggerboard. And on the return I would just run it in with the
board out. The rudder would kick up like a centerboard. Sometimes got
it up three or so feet past the waters edge, if I timed a wave just
right. Same lake had some 25 MPH sailboats: scows.

I have done lots of sailing, not cruising, in more than 25 MPH of wind
and 2 to 3 foot waves.

25mph winds? Force 5-6 and only 2-3ft waves? uh huh...

Richard Casady wrote:
(about hull speed to 25 MPH winds)

I figure maybe 100 HP for a thirty foot boat. Maybe less.
It's the fifteen horse motors I object to. Battleships won't do hull
speed on 1 to 4 HP per ton either.


Here in Denmark, 100 HP in a 30' boat would immediately classify it as a
motorboat. With enough rig we might accept it as a motor sailer, but most
people here would not consider it a reasonable configuration for a
sailboat.

Maybe it is a cultural thing, but most sailors here don't compare their
boats to battleships.

"Hull speed", as far as I understand the term, is the maximum a boat can
possibly do. Not the minimum it has to attain under any circumstances, sail
or motor.

I quite enjoy sailing on an old 8-meter boat, about 30' long. I don't
remember the details of the engine, but it is well in the neighbourhood of
your 15 HP. It is more than sufficient to get us out of Copenhagen harbour
and in again.

In my (too short) spare time I dream of building my own boat - that's why I
follow this newsgroup. It will be under 30' long, probably rigged as a
schooner, and I will not go to the excess of 15 HP motor, more like half of
that.

But, of course, it all depends on where, how, and why you want to sail.


Best regards

Heikki

On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 16:16:46 GMT, wrote:

How big was the auxiliary on your Sunfish?

How about the family heirloom 1920 vintage 1/2 HP Evinrude.? My dad
used that motor as the auxiliary on a 20 foot schooner that he built
on a rowboat hull. You could probably mount it on a Sunfish, it maybe
weighs 25 pounds. Has a nasty starting rope, but it is at least easy
to start. It may even have low hours on it, no way to tell.

Casady

Richard Casady wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 04:52:02 GMT, "Island Teak"
wrote:

Any teak deck that requires replacing has probably had that 1/4" worn off in
service.

Every cruise ship I have been on had teak decks. They didn't maintain
them, hosed them down, perhaps, and I don't know why they would wear
much if any. Traffic wouldn't do it, those things are big and the wear
would be well diluted. The planks were perhaps three inches wide, and
must have been maybe 3/4 inch thick? You need a certain thickness,
relative to width, to avoid cupping. Of course they don't have to
impress the neighbors with well sanded teak. I mean we saw one boxboat
in two atlantic crossings.

Cruise ships built in the Aker yards in Finland have at least 4" thick
teak decks. (I've seen photos). They probably sand them down every
year with a floor sander. Never have to replace them during the life
of the ship with that much thickness.

Evan Gatehouse

"Evan Gatehouse" wrote in message
news:aLihj.38008$uV6.20510@pd7urf1no...
Richard Casady wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 04:52:02 GMT, "Island Teak"
wrote:

Any teak deck that requires replacing has probably had that 1/4" worn
off in service.

Every cruise ship I have been on had teak decks. They didn't maintain
them, hosed them down, perhaps, and I don't know why they would wear
much if any. Traffic wouldn't do it, those things are big and the wear
would be well diluted. The planks were perhaps three inches wide, and
must have been maybe 3/4 inch thick? You need a certain thickness,
relative to width, to avoid cupping. Of course they don't have to
impress the neighbors with well sanded teak. I mean we saw one boxboat
in two atlantic crossings.

Cruise ships built in the Aker yards in Finland have at least 4" thick
teak decks. (I've seen photos). They probably sand them down every year
with a floor sander. Never have to replace them during the life of the
ship with that much thickness.

Evan Gatehouse

Your right, however those 4" thick decks often only have two inches of
usable life until the decks wear down to the screw/bolt height.
These days that is more than ample as the life of a cruise ship is often
limited to 30 to 40 working years.
The S.S. Norway was built in 1961 and now sits in the mud at the India
shipbreaking yards.

...Ken