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#1
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Anybody know of any all aluminum designs (no wood composite or sandwich)
available for sale for a shallow draft semi tunnel for river running? I can modify if need be, but I ain't gonna put no wood in it if I build it. Well, maybe for totally non structural stuff, but I doubt it. I'm trying to talk Mrs Santa into getting me a 60% duty cycle MIG w/ spool gun for Christmas. -- Bob La Londe Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River Fishing Forums & Contests http://www.YumaBassMan.com -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#2
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On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 20:54:32 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote: Anybody know of any all aluminum designs (no wood composite or sandwich) available for sale for a shallow draft semi tunnel for river running? I can modify if need be, but I ain't gonna put no wood in it if I build it. Well, maybe for totally non structural stuff, but I doubt it. I'm trying to talk Mrs Santa into getting me a 60% duty cycle MIG w/ spool gun for Christmas. -- Bob La Londe Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really, casually. Tell me you have MIG welded aluminum before - that you have the right mask screen, that you can not only stitch thick aluminum castings together, but you have seamed sheet as well..... Brian W |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.building
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On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 19:18:59 -0600, Brian Whatcott
wrote: Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really, casually. Tell me you have MIG welded aluminum before - that you have the right mask screen, that you can not only stitch thick aluminum castings together, but you have seamed sheet as well.... Place I do my boating has lots of fifty year old aluminum boats, none of which have ever had paint or maintainance of any kind. All are riveted. Grumman canoes are riveted and they get bounced off the rocks regularly, if they are used in white water. I don't think welding is really suitable for anything under forty feet. Metal is too thin. Note that all those airliners are riveted. Casady |
#4
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![]() "Brian Whatcott" wrote in message news ![]() On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 20:54:32 -0700, "Bob La Londe" wrote: Anybody know of any all aluminum designs (no wood composite or sandwich) available for sale for a shallow draft semi tunnel for river running? I can modify if need be, but I ain't gonna put no wood in it if I build it. Well, maybe for totally non structural stuff, but I doubt it. I'm trying to talk Mrs Santa into getting me a 60% duty cycle MIG w/ spool gun for Christmas. -- Bob La Londe Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really, casually. There are some things about mig aluminum welding that a lot of people don't realize... 1st - Its really hard to do a good job with a cheap welder like the 120V 20amp 10/20% duty cycle things with only two heat ranges like they sell at Harbor Freight. I'm looking at a Hobart Ironman 250. I already got one of those cheap ones. Figured I'ld use the push feed gun for steel and a spool gun for aluminum so I wouldn't ever have to worry about gun/tip contamination. 2nd - You have to burn some metal to get it dialed in just right. I got scrap laying around from some other things I can burn up. 3rd - Use a clean stainless brush on all surfaces just before welding to break up and remove the oxidation. Never use your brushes for aluminum on ANYTHING else. Brushes are cheap insurance. USE THEM EVERYTIME even if you brushed it yesterday. 4th - A spool gun is the way to go, but even with a push feed gun its possible to push aluminum if you swap out the V groove feed wheel for a U groove feed wheel. The V groove wheels shave the soft aluminum wire causing it to plug up the feed tube and your gun. 5th - There is no 5th item. 6th - if for ANY REASON the wire doesn't feed STOP. Otherwise you will you will have a wad of crammed up aluminum wire someplace in your rig. 7th - Practice and warm up for a few minutes on some scrap EVERYTIME before you start on your cut pieces. (Thats a good idea on steel too.) Tell me you have MIG welded aluminum before - that you have the right mask screen, that you can not only stitch thick aluminum castings together, but you have seamed sheet as well..... Nope, I'm not super experienced, but I got a pile of scrap aircraft aluminum to practice on. I've played some with aluminum, and I don't plan on using a cheap rig. I've used some of the torch alloy stuff too, but its really only suitable for small work. I have a variable shade autodarkening mask, and I use it for everything. I even use it for cutting. I just lighten the shade up. And worse comes to worse... I can alway learn to install blind rivets. LOL. -- Bob La Londe Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River Fishing Forums & Contests http://www.YumaBassMan.com -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.building
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On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 19:16:34 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote: .... Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really, casually. ... I'm looking at a Hobart Ironman 250. I already got one of those cheap ones..... 3rd - Use a clean stainless brush on all surfaces just before welding to break up and remove the oxidation. Never use your brushes for aluminum on ANYTHING else. Brushes are cheap insurance. USE THEM EVERYTIME even if you brushed it yesterday. 4th - A spool gun is the way to go, but even with a push feed gun its possible to push aluminum if you swap out the V groove feed wheel for a U groove feed wheel.... 5th - There is no 5th item Bob La Londe This seems like a plan to me: the story I hear quite often is that the hot puddle will drop out given half a chance on thin stock. A particular optical filter is said to be a big help in visualizing the puddle's state. Good luck! Brian W |
#6
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On Mon, 10 Dec 2007 02:38:44 GMT, Brian Whatcott
wrote: On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 19:16:34 -0700, "Bob La Londe" wrote: ... Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really, casually. ... I'm looking at a Hobart Ironman 250. I already got one of those cheap ones..... 3rd - Use a clean stainless brush on all surfaces just before welding to break up and remove the oxidation. Never use your brushes for aluminum on ANYTHING else. Brushes are cheap insurance. USE THEM EVERYTIME even if you brushed it yesterday. 4th - A spool gun is the way to go, but even with a push feed gun its possible to push aluminum if you swap out the V groove feed wheel for a U groove feed wheel.... 5th - There is no 5th item Bob La Londe This seems like a plan to me: the story I hear quite often is that the hot puddle will drop out given half a chance on thin stock. A particular optical filter is said to be a big help in visualizing the puddle's state. THere have been at least a million aluminum airplanes produced. All were riveted. Wonder why? Casady |
#7
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#8
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Bob La Londe wrote:
"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message news ![]() On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 20:54:32 -0700, "Bob La Londe" wrote: Anybody know of any all aluminum designs (no wood composite or sandwich) available for sale for a shallow draft semi tunnel for river running? I can modify if need be, but I ain't gonna put no wood in it if I build it. Well, maybe for totally non structural stuff, but I doubt it. I'm trying to talk Mrs Santa into getting me a 60% duty cycle MIG w/ spool gun for Christmas. -- Bob La Londe Uh-oh: you said "aluminum boat" and "MIG welder" really, really, casually. There are some things about mig aluminum welding that a lot of people don't realize... 1st - Its really hard to do a good job with a cheap welder like the 120V 20amp 10/20% duty cycle things with only two heat ranges like they sell at Harbor Freight. I'm looking at a Hobart Ironman 250. I already got one of those cheap ones. Figured I'ld use the push feed gun for steel and a spool gun for aluminum so I wouldn't ever have to worry about gun/tip contamination. 2nd - You have to burn some metal to get it dialed in just right. I got scrap laying around from some other things I can burn up. 3rd - Use a clean stainless brush on all surfaces just before welding to break up and remove the oxidation. Never use your brushes for aluminum on ANYTHING else. Brushes are cheap insurance. USE THEM EVERYTIME even if you brushed it yesterday. 4th - A spool gun is the way to go, but even with a push feed gun its possible to push aluminum if you swap out the V groove feed wheel for a U groove feed wheel. The V groove wheels shave the soft aluminum wire causing it to plug up the feed tube and your gun. 5th - There is no 5th item. 6th - if for ANY REASON the wire doesn't feed STOP. Otherwise you will you will have a wad of crammed up aluminum wire someplace in your rig. 7th - Practice and warm up for a few minutes on some scrap EVERYTIME before you start on your cut pieces. (Thats a good idea on steel too.) Tell me you have MIG welded aluminum before - that you have the right mask screen, that you can not only stitch thick aluminum castings together, but you have seamed sheet as well..... Nope, I'm not super experienced, but I got a pile of scrap aircraft aluminum to practice on. I've played some with aluminum, and I don't plan on using a cheap rig. I've used some of the torch alloy stuff too, but its really only suitable for small work. I have a variable shade autodarkening mask, and I use it for everything. I even use it for cutting. I just lighten the shade up. And worse comes to worse... I can alway learn to install blind rivets. LOL. Trust me, you can't really push aluminum well enough to weld a decent seam. I have the Ironman210, and even with the teflon liner, it balls and birdsnests easily unless the gun is straight out from the welder. Even then, it'll only skip once, and then you gotta get out the cutters. Spoolgun is the way to go. I don't care what they told you. -- “TANSTAAFL” __________________________________________________ __________________________ America: Ironically, the safest place to be anti-American. __________________________________________________ __________________________ "A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences." - Proverbs 22:3 |
#9
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Any plywood design can be modified for aluminum. You need a design that
will be OK with some weight, as 1/8 aluminum weighs about the same as 3/4 ply. even 1/8 can be a bear to work with, I wouldn't be optimistic for the chances of success with any thing lighter, unless you have a LOT of experience. I'm not sure what you mean by "semi tunnel" but I built an Atkin Rescue Minor with fully protected prop and rudder. Or you can modify the transom of any skiff to give you a bit of a tunnel effect with an outboard - at the loss of some "lift". Can you provide a link to pictures of the kind of boat (in wood or glass) you are thinking of? Sal's Dad "Bob La Londe" wrote in message .. . Anybody know of any all aluminum designs (no wood composite or sandwich) available for sale for a shallow draft semi tunnel for river running? I can modify if need be, but I ain't gonna put no wood in it if I build it. Well, maybe for totally non structural stuff, but I doubt it. I'm trying to talk Mrs Santa into getting me a 60% duty cycle MIG w/ spool gun for Christmas. -- Bob La Londe Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River Fishing Forums & Contests http://www.YumaBassMan.com |
#10
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On Wed, 5 Dec 2007 07:41:59 -0500, "Sal's Dad"
wrote: as 1/8 aluminum weighs about the same as 3/4 ply. If you divide 2.7, the density of aluminum, by 6, you get .45. I thought plywood was heavier than that. Casady |
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