On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 21:11:46 -0400, Paul Oman
wrote:

ashore wrote:

Folks, WRT that 35-year-old sweetheart that some of you were kind
enough to post responses, I'm now considering re-gelling. The yard
folks tell me that 2-part LP application has gotten so expensive that
re-gelling hulls from the rail to somewhere below the waterline is a
reasonable consideration. I'm expecting quotes from the same guy on
both.

Any experience here? There's two good coats of epoxy primer in both
approaches, but are there any other things to watch for? Thanks all,

AS
Annapolis, MD



------------------

gel coat is just thickened polyester resin.... some stuff the rest of
the boat is made from.
Generally epoxy bonds to polyester resin but polyester resin doesn't
usually stick well to epoxy - and epoxy primers are just solvent thinned
epoxy.

LP coatings can be had for about $100 per gallon - same as bottom
paint. Of course you can buy the big name and pay $300 per gallon if
you like!


LPU coatings are not very user friendly during application. Another
option is a good 1 part enamel then an LPU clear coat on top. The
clear LPU may not show the 'mistakes' that a pigmented lpu would.


Note that lpu coatings come as polyester polyurethanes and acrylic
polyurethanes. Google LPU to learn more about this type of coatings....

paul oman'
progressive epoxy polymers.


If you are in the tropics I strongly recommend that you DO NOT clear
coat the boat. I have seen a couple of boats that have been
clearcoated here in Thailand (my own and another chap's) and in both
cases after about 5 years the clear coat began to blister and peel and
the boats required repainting.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

wrote:


If you are in the tropics I strongly recommend that you DO NOT clear
coat the boat. I have seen a couple of boats that have been
clearcoated here in Thailand (my own and another chap's) and in both
cases after about 5 years the clear coat began to blister and peel and
the boats required repainting.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

Sounds like skimpy prep work, Bruce, but you probably already know
a whole lot about that (now).

Richard in Texas

On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 01:21:26 -0500, cavelamb himself
wrote:

wrote:


If you are in the tropics I strongly recommend that you DO NOT clear
coat the boat. I have seen a couple of boats that have been
clearcoated here in Thailand (my own and another chap's) and in both
cases after about 5 years the clear coat began to blister and peel and
the boats required repainting.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

Sounds like skimpy prep work, Bruce, but you probably already know
a whole lot about that (now).

Richard in Texas

I don't think so. At least the preliminary work, removal of original
finish, priming and filling, prime coats, final sanding and
application of top coats seem to have been done correctly as there has
been no deterioration in that area in about seven years.

After the final finnish coat was applied a coat of clear coat was
applied the following morning after the sun had come up and initial
morning humidity had dropped but before the sun was so high that the
boat felt hot.

I'm not a professional painter by any means but two boats, painted in
different yards, but different people had the same problem.

In addition there was an individual who posted about paint peeling on
a fiberglass pickup truck canopy and when I described what my paint
looked like he said that was how his looked.

On the other hand, clear coating (to the best of my knowledge) came
from the car painters and must have been used extensively in Southern
California.

I certainly wouldn't use it again.






Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)