I bought an Indigo 3 bladed prop last week for my Alberg 35 with the
original Atomic 4, as the existing prop succumbed to electrolysis

I went down to the boat yesterday, worried that I might not be able to
loosen the old hub's grip on the shaft. It was also a 3 bladed prop.
That was actually easy after about 5 minutes with a map gas torch.

I seem to have only about an inch of space between the end of the prop
shaft and the rudder (post). The hub is about 2-2,5 inches thick. I've
tried swinging the rudder from stop to stop, but don't seem to be able
to find an angle that will allow the old prop to come off, or, for that
matter, a new one to go on.

Others must have encountered this problem and found a solution.....

At this juncture it seems to me that I either have to dismount the
rudder to gain an extra inch or so, or I have to unmount the engine and
pull the prop shaft forward a couple of inches (if that's even possible )

I am hoping that I missed something perfectly obvious as I was working
late and was tired.... any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Jonathan Wye


--
I am building my daughter an Argie 10 sailing dinghy, check it out:
http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr

On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 23:00:14 -0400, Jonathan W
wrote:

I bought an Indigo 3 bladed prop last week for my Alberg 35 with the
original Atomic 4, as the existing prop succumbed to electrolysis

I went down to the boat yesterday, worried that I might not be able to
loosen the old hub's grip on the shaft. It was also a 3 bladed prop.
That was actually easy after about 5 minutes with a map gas torch.

I seem to have only about an inch of space between the end of the prop
shaft and the rudder (post). The hub is about 2-2,5 inches thick. I've
tried swinging the rudder from stop to stop, but don't seem to be able
to find an angle that will allow the old prop to come off, or, for that
matter, a new one to go on.

Others must have encountered this problem and found a solution.....

At this juncture it seems to me that I either have to dismount the
rudder to gain an extra inch or so, or I have to unmount the engine and
pull the prop shaft forward a couple of inches (if that's even possible )

I am hoping that I missed something perfectly obvious as I was working
late and was tired.... any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Jonathan Wye


Sorry to say but there are only two ways to get more room, both of
which you've mentioned. I believe most people would prefer to pull the
rudder..

I'm not familiar with an alberg 35 rudder but if you are taking it off
is thee a possibility you could have it modified with a little larger
cut out in case you want to remove things sometime in the future?

There is an Alberg user's group - google "alberg 35" but they didn't
have anything to say about removing a propeller. Apparently not a
popular pass time.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

It's called poor engineering and it is unfortunately, very common. The
engine and propshaft should be offset to allow shaft removal without the
rudder and there should be adequate clearance between the rudder and shaft
for removing the prop. Additionally, there should be at 2 inches clearance
between the outer diameter of the prop and the bottom of the boat to prevent
pounding from prop turbulence, but too often these things are not done for
cost savings.

You may be able to remove the coupling from the gear box and gain a bit of
clearance as well, but pulling the rudder has the advantage of being able to
use a prop puller as well.
Steve

"Jonathan W" wrote in message
. ..
I bought an Indigo 3 bladed prop last week for my Alberg 35 with the
original Atomic 4, as the existing prop succumbed to electrolysis

I went down to the boat yesterday, worried that I might not be able to
loosen the old hub's grip on the shaft. It was also a 3 bladed prop. That
was actually easy after about 5 minutes with a map gas torch.

I seem to have only about an inch of space between the end of the prop
shaft and the rudder (post). The hub is about 2-2,5 inches thick. I've
tried swinging the rudder from stop to stop, but don't seem to be able to
find an angle that will allow the old prop to come off, or, for that
matter, a new one to go on.

Others must have encountered this problem and found a solution.....

At this juncture it seems to me that I either have to dismount the rudder
to gain an extra inch or so, or I have to unmount the engine and pull the
prop shaft forward a couple of inches (if that's even possible )

I am hoping that I missed something perfectly obvious as I was working
late and was tired.... any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Jonathan Wye


--
I am building my daughter an Argie 10 sailing dinghy, check it out:
http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr

On Aug 14, 4:44 am, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
It's called poor engineering and it is unfortunately, very common. The
engine and propshaft should be offset to allow shaft removal without the
rudder and there should be adequate clearance between the rudder and shaft
for removing the prop. Additionally, there should be at 2 inches clearance
between the outer diameter of the prop and the bottom of the boat to prevent
pounding from prop turbulence, but too often these things are not done for
cost savings.

You may be able to remove the coupling from the gear box and gain a bit of
clearance as well, but pulling the rudder has the advantage of being able to
use a prop puller as well.
Steve

"Jonathan W" wrote in message

. ..

I bought an Indigo 3 bladed prop last week for my Alberg 35 with the
original Atomic 4, as the existing prop succumbed to electrolysis

I went down to the boat yesterday, worried that I might not be able to
loosen the old hub's grip on the shaft. It was also a 3 bladed prop. That
was actually easy after about 5 minutes with a map gas torch.

I seem to have only about an inch of space between the end of the prop
shaft and the rudder (post). The hub is about 2-2,5 inches thick. I've
tried swinging the rudder from stop to stop, but don't seem to be able to
find an angle that will allow the old prop to come off, or, for that
matter, a new one to go on.

Others must have encountered this problem and found a solution.....

At this juncture it seems to me that I either have to dismount the rudder
to gain an extra inch or so, or I have to unmount the engine and pull the
prop shaft forward a couple of inches (if that's even possible )

I am hoping that I missed something perfectly obvious as I was working
late and was tired.... any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Jonathan Wye

--
I am building my daughter an Argie 10 sailing dinghy, check it out:
http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr

Cut the prop shaft in the boat. Take out a 2" long section. Take off
prop. When re-installing, use a sliding coupler to join the two
pieces. This assumes you even have enough room to do this cutting.

"Frogwatch" wrote

Cut the prop shaft in the boat. Take out a 2" long section. Take off
prop. When re-installing, use a sliding coupler to join the two
pieces. This assumes you even have enough room to do this cutting.


Woah! This is up there with some of the worst advice I've encountered on
this newsgroup.

--
Roger Long

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...

"Frogwatch" wrote

Cut the prop shaft in the boat. Take out a 2" long section. Take off
prop. When re-installing, use a sliding coupler to join the two
pieces. This assumes you even have enough room to do this cutting.


Woah! This is up there with some of the worst advice I've encountered on
this newsgroup.

--
Roger Long


Ya, I kinda cringed when I read it. Alignment questions aside, that would
have to be one strong coupler.

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 09:57:42 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote:


"Frogwatch" wrote

Cut the prop shaft in the boat. Take out a 2" long section. Take off
prop. When re-installing, use a sliding coupler to join the two
pieces. This assumes you even have enough room to do this cutting.


Woah! This is up there with some of the worst advice I've encountered on
this newsgroup.

There isn't any room to do it anyway. The shaft nearly hits the rudder
in the rear and there is only a couple of inches between the engine
coupling and the packing gland.

Unless you wanted an Alberg 33 with the open back cockpit for racing
:-)




Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

What limits/prevents the rudder from swinging to the side.
If it is steering linkage, that can be unhooked to allow more movement,
If it is the mechanical attachment of the rudder itself, you're toast.
Who installed the last one and could you talk to them?
Gordon

I once chartered a Hunter 37 (IMS) with just this arrangement. And it did in
fact come loose, luckly with the coupling attached to the prop side so it
didn't leave the boat.


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...

"Frogwatch" wrote

Cut the prop shaft in the boat. Take out a 2" long section. Take off
prop. When re-installing, use a sliding coupler to join the two
pieces. This assumes you even have enough room to do this cutting.


Woah! This is up there with some of the worst advice I've encountered on
this newsgroup.

--
Roger Long

Jonathan,
This is a very common issue with the long keel boats that have the
propeller in an appature.
It is a toss up. If the heel casting unscrews, then dropping the rudder
is really pretty simple. Take all the head fitting off the rudder,
unscrew (2 as I recall) the big screws that hold on the heal casting and
down it comes.

I actual fact, if you keep track of the shims, pulling a U4 forward an
inch and an half is usually just about as hard. The problem if there is
one is the exhaust pipe. The hoses and wires will usually pull that
far, but if the muffler can't be moved with the engine (some can) then
you don't want to mess with that during the season. It may take you out
of commission for longer than it is worth.

Matt Colie
Lifelong Waterman, Licensed Mariner and Perpetual Sailor

Jonathan W wrote:
I bought an Indigo 3 bladed prop last week for my Alberg 35 with the
original Atomic 4, as the existing prop succumbed to electrolysis

I went down to the boat yesterday, worried that I might not be able to
loosen the old hub's grip on the shaft. It was also a 3 bladed prop.
That was actually easy after about 5 minutes with a map gas torch.

I seem to have only about an inch of space between the end of the prop
shaft and the rudder (post). The hub is about 2-2,5 inches thick. I've
tried swinging the rudder from stop to stop, but don't seem to be able
to find an angle that will allow the old prop to come off, or, for that
matter, a new one to go on.

Others must have encountered this problem and found a solution.....

At this juncture it seems to me that I either have to dismount the
rudder to gain an extra inch or so, or I have to unmount the engine and
pull the prop shaft forward a couple of inches (if that's even possible )

I am hoping that I missed something perfectly obvious as I was working
late and was tired.... any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Jonathan Wye