I realize that one has to allow for movement when working with
starboard and I was wondering what thoughts this group might have on
using it one a bowsprit.

My bowsprit is made of 1 1/2" stainless round tubing. It projects
about 4 ft. from the bow. My roller-furling jib is at the very end of
the bowsprit and the bowsprit is secued with two bob stays. I also
have two anchors equipped with rollers on either side of the jib stay.

Now, my problem is that I want to replace the teak boards that lay on
top of the tubular bowsprit and cover it. They serve as a footing when
working and have a lot of one-inch holes drilled through them to
reduce resistance when the bowsprit plunges into the water.

Of course the teak moves very little so there is no need to make
allowance by elongating the holes where the fasteners go through the
tubing. Question is what would happen if I replaced those teak boards
with StarBoard. It seems that if I elongate the holes in the
Starboard I will not be able to fasten them down tight enough,
especially since I have cleats and chocks that sit on top of the teak
and whose bolts go through the SS 1 1/2" tubing?

All thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.

Joe

In addition to the thermal expansion problem with Starboard, it's heavy,
slippery and not all that stiff.
I'd prefer a decay resistant wood like teak or maybe Alaskan yellow cedar or
white cedar.

"Joe Bleau" wrote in message
...
I realize that one has to allow for movement when working with
starboard and I was wondering what thoughts this group might have on
using it one a bowsprit.

My bowsprit is made of 1 1/2" stainless round tubing. It projects
about 4 ft. from the bow. My roller-furling jib is at the very end of
the bowsprit and the bowsprit is secued with two bob stays. I also
have two anchors equipped with rollers on either side of the jib stay.

Now, my problem is that I want to replace the teak boards that lay on
top of the tubular bowsprit and cover it. They serve as a footing when
working and have a lot of one-inch holes drilled through them to
reduce resistance when the bowsprit plunges into the water.

Of course the teak moves very little so there is no need to make
allowance by elongating the holes where the fasteners go through the
tubing. Question is what would happen if I replaced those teak boards
with StarBoard. It seems that if I elongate the holes in the
Starboard I will not be able to fasten them down tight enough,
especially since I have cleats and chocks that sit on top of the teak
and whose bolts go through the SS 1 1/2" tubing?

All thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.

Joe