If air cooling didn't work out, you could remove the radiator and
instead pump the coolant through a coil of copper pipe running through
a sea chest (small seawater-flooded compartment built inside on the
inside surface of the hull). Kind of like a keel cooler, but inside.
The advantage over cooling with raw seawater is that you don't get
corrosion inside your engine, both from the seawater and from the
galvanic action it creates between the dissimilar metals in the engine.
Of course, it's slightly more complicated.

I'm not sure that I understand the continuous duty problem. Certainly,
truck engines aren't meant to run at 100% of rated RPM all the time.
However, they can do long 'passages' at highway loads, which (I think)
is around a third of rated HP. Truckers even leave their engines
turning at high idle while they're stopped. Why wouldn't you use a
400hp truck engine as a 100hp boat engine? If yours is a big ol' boat
running at displacement speeds, the difference in weight wouldn't
matter much. Anyway, I got the impression that when manufacturers sold
an engine as "continuous-rated" versus "intermittent-rated", half the
difference was simply reducing the rated HP. I could easily be wrong.

I've never done this sort of thing. I'm just thinking about how I'd do
it if I were in a 'gypsy' frame of mind, and I wanted a decent boat for
minimum cost. What do you experienced folk think?

-Max Camirand

Steve Morrisby wrote:
Ah yes!. I did not consider that the marine engine is continuous duty. Considering that fact the cost is probably justified.

Referring to Max Camirands posting, I also wondered about air cooling. Deutz built a fine range of air cooled engines, and it would keep the boat nice and warm!. But I am still up against the continuous duty problem.


Thanks for all your input.

Steve

I understood continuous duty to mean not only an ability of the engine to
run reliably for extended periods at full load but also that all the
metalwork, fittings etc are of a superior standard. Hence the cost.

I may be wrong here but I seem to recall that running engines off load or on
reduced loads for extended periods is not good for them. Leads to glazed
barrels or something like that???.

Referring to air cooled, I rather like the smell of engine rooms but I can
see on a boat you would have to build in a heat exchanger to isolate the
cabin from the "raw" heated air, I just think that a heat exchanger for air
is easier to build that one for a sea/fresh water combination. Also no holes
in the hull. However on the down side, don't water cooled engines run
quieter than air cooled. So many points to consider!.

Having said all of the above however I believe that the engineering required
is beyond me and by the time I gather the experience and tools to do the
work too much time will have gone by!. I will just have to save a bit harder
and buy a marine engine.

Steve

I was going to suggest talk to Polar Engineering, but they have closed
and Bowman have taken on their product range.
http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/news/News_polar.htm

From my research when I was looking for a marine engine, the only
difference between continuous and intermittent rating is the power
allowed and duration. I bought a Daewoo L136 from Watermota UK - 160Hp
at 2200 rpm continuous rating. Excellent engine, very reliable, frugal
and well priced and this particular engine is used when re-engining
trawlers whose Gardners are beyond economic rebuild or repair. Daewoo
do a 70 Hp engine - http://www.watermota.co.uk/daewool034.html

Give Mike Beacham a call - you might be surprised!!

Colin Stone

max camirand wrote:
If air cooling didn't work out, you could remove the radiator and
instead pump the coolant through a coil of copper pipe running through
a sea chest (small seawater-flooded compartment built inside on the
inside surface of the hull). Kind of like a keel cooler, but inside.
The advantage over cooling with raw seawater is that you don't get
corrosion inside your engine, both from the seawater and from the
galvanic action it creates between the dissimilar metals in the engine.
Of course, it's slightly more complicated.

Why bother with all that complication. Just go on E-Bay and search for
"Heat Exchanger" and you will find a plethora of all sizes and shapes.
Then add a raw water pump on a bracket, some plumbing and replace the
radiator with the heat exchanger.

Thanks to everyone for those links to other suppliers and for your
comments. They were all well noted!.

Yesterday I talked to my car mechanic about continuous duty engines. He said
they did not really exist but likened it to aero engines which are required
to run for long periods at a time without missing a beat.

"Yes" he said "they are built to exacting specifications and components are
replaced after a recorded period long before they fail."
"What about old VW and Subaru engines which are used in home builds" I asked
"They are usually rebuilt or modified by dedicated and highly competent
amateurs and maintained to a very high standard" the mechanic replied.

So. A continuous duty engine is one that is well built (ie almost any new
engine) and maintained to a high standard (hey I do that to my car already).

It's all in the maintenance!.

Steve

Have a look at www.abato.nl,
a Dutch company that imports Chinese made Deutz 226B marine diesel engines.
Weichai Deutz Engineering co, joint venture.
Deutz moved the production line of the 226B diesels to China, a few years
back.
Quality control is still executed by German engineers, in the Weichai plant
in China, so they say.
Text on this website is in Dutch, but you can find some interesting links.
75 hp model costs 4300 euro, excl. VAT.(without gearbox).
Pricing is more than OK, I think, but about reliability I haven't heard
anything yet, it's too soon for that.
If I ever need a diesel, I think I'll go for it.
Beats a truck engine marinised by an amateur!

Bye,

Luk
"Steve Morrisby" schreef in bericht
...
Hi there

I have been looking at the UK market for a 75HP marine inboard engine.
Those
that look good are products from Volvo, Betamarine and Lombardini, but
what
a price!. I struggle with the fact that my new car cost less than one of
these and that got me to thinking if I could do it myself.

What are the pitfalls in "marineising" a good used truck engine, are
aftermarket kits sold and what about marrying the gearbox to the engine
bell
housing.

I seem to recall reading a thread on this subject some years back, but at
the time I was not too interested. Now of course I cannot find threads
going
that far back.

TIA

Steve

On Wed, 13 Dec 2006 23:26:21 +0100 Heidi&Luc
) wrote:
Have a look at www.abato.nl,
a Dutch company that imports Chinese made Deutz 226B marine diesel engines.
Weichai Deutz Engineering co, joint venture.
Deutz moved the production line of the 226B diesels to China, a few years
back.
Quality control is still executed by German engineers, in the Weichai plant
in China, so they say.
Text on this website is in Dutch, but you can find some interesting links.
75 hp model costs 4300 euro, excl. VAT.(without gearbox).
Pricing is more than OK, I think, but about reliability I haven't heard
anything yet, it's too soon for that.
If I ever need a diesel, I think I'll go for it.
Beats a truck engine marinised by an amateur!

There are english datasheets available.

Before 1985 it was a MWM engine, Deutz bought MWM in 1985:
http://www.deutz.nl/historie/1980-2000.htm and Fendt also used these
engine types - D2xx range:
http://www.fendt-freunde.de/datenbank/fs_dat1.htm

Compare these pictures:
http://www.abato.nl/motoren/images/w...z/_BHF0191.jpg
and http://www/cgi-bin/foto/436/50.jpg
I dont't have a picture from exact the same angle, more pictures at
http://www/cgi-bin/cath_pub?5

--
Richard
e-mail: vervang/replace invalid door/with NL.net