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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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Fuel tank baffle question
I'm thinking about cutting a 5 inch diameter hole in my aluminum diesel tank
so I can get in there and scrub them front to back. I suddenly realize there are baffles in there. Does anyone know what the baffles look like? Do they go from top to bottom or just part way up? I wouldn't bother with this but I need to cut a hole for a fuel sender, so I thought I'd make the hole big enough to get my arm in. |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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Fuel tank baffle question
Usually they go from the bottom almost to the top, to within a couple
of inches or so. The bottom has the corners cut out to allow the fuel to flow back and forth. The trick is figuring out where they are. Hopefully you can see some weld marks or something to tell you where they're at. |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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Fuel tank baffle question
Keith wrote: Usually they go from the bottom almost to the top, to within a couple of inches or so. The bottom has the corners cut out to allow the fuel to flow back and forth. The trick is figuring out where they are. Hopefully you can see some weld marks or something to tell you where they're at. Take a look at http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...t/P1010166.jpg I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene, formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. The baffels are floor to cieling, and corners cut at bottom, with 2" holes in the 200 gal tanks. No 2" holes in the 100 gal tanks. 3 baffels in the 200 gal, and 2 in the 100 gal. As Keith says look for weldmarks, or take a clothsehanger, and probe around. I bet you end up cleaning out the tank, so make the goles big enough to do the dirty deed. Den 48yf EAGLE |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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Fuel tank baffle question
Most times fuel tanks are removed from vehicle and pressure washed there is
no need to cut extra access holes. Sal "Jim and Becky" wrote in message ... I'm thinking about cutting a 5 inch diameter hole in my aluminum diesel tank so I can get in there and scrub them front to back. I suddenly realize there are baffles in there. Does anyone know what the baffles look like? Do they go from top to bottom or just part way up? I wouldn't bother with this but I need to cut a hole for a fuel sender, so I thought I'd make the hole big enough to get my arm in. |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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Fuel tank baffle question
Really? Well come on over and yank out my two 350 gallon tanks and
clean them up for me. I'll give you $100. Of course that covers removing and reinstalling the engine, bulkheads, wiring, plumbing, water heater, accumulator tank, FW pump, etc. etc.. etc. Oh yea, and you're going to have to pump out and store the 400 gallons of diesel that's in there now. On Nov 2, 7:13 am, "sal" wrote: Most times fuel tanks are removed from vehicle and pressure washed there is no need to cut extra access holes. Sal |
#6
posted to rec.boats.building
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Fuel tank baffle question
Keith wrote: Really? Well come on over and yank out my two 350 gallon tanks and clean them up for me. I'll give you $100. Of course that covers removing and reinstalling the engine, bulkheads, wiring, plumbing, water heater, accumulator tank, FW pump, etc. etc.. etc. Oh yea, and you're going to have to pump out and store the 400 gallons of diesel that's in there now. WOW Keith : I did the 2 200 gallons one at a time, transferring fuel back, and forth from tank to tank. Took a LOT of time, and fouled 2 transfer pumps in the process. Used 4 5micron filters to clean during transfer. Had to rip out the entire floor to do this. (easir than removing the engines, and if i did i figgered i couldn't get them out anyway!) engines 6ft long, tanks 8ft long. Wish I had found a $100 guy! How old are your tanks, we might want to check it out if they have been a diesel breeding ground for several years. Boatshot, and Tank shots at: http://densnet.tripod.com/photos/index.album?i=1&s=1 and http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/ The muck in the before pic started 25 years ago. Den den at densnet dot com |
#7
posted to rec.boats.building
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Fuel tank baffle question
I'd like to know your plan with the Neoprene, Formagasket and aluminum.
You're going to layer them somehow I take it. I know the Formagasket will stay soft in case you want to remove them. I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene, formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. The baffels are floor to cieling, and corners cut at bottom, with 2" holes in the 200 gal tanks. No 2" holes in the 100 gal tanks. 3 baffels in the 200 gal, and 2 in the 100 gal. As Keith says look for weldmarks, or take a clothsehanger, and probe around. I bet you end up cleaning out the tank, so make the goles big enough to do the dirty deed. Den 48yf EAGLE |
#8
posted to rec.boats.building
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Fuel tank baffle question
Jim and Becky wrote:
I'd like to know your plan with the Neoprene, Formagasket and aluminum. You're going to layer them somehow I take it. I know the Formagasket will stay soft in case you want to remove them. I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene, formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. Step1: Drill bolt holes in the 1ft square aluminum port covers. at least 4 to a side equally spaced. Step2: Center the port cover over the cutout, and center punch thru the bolt holes for the tap drill. Mark a corner for reference, in case the holes are not uniform. Step3: Tapdrill, and tap. Note tapping aluminum sucks because it is so soft the tap plugs up. BACKUP several times, and clean tap. Step3: Clean all the shavings with a vacuum. (I am assuming you have a clean dry tank here) Don't want them to look for your filter. Step4: Lay the port cover over the neoprene, and mark for punching holes. and punch. Step5: Spread the formagasket around the port, 2" or more wide. Step6: Lay neoprene over cutout, spread a 1/4" bead around each bolt hole, and lay on the port cover. Step6: Tighten all screws. OOPS i forgot. The start of this was the fuel guage sender. You get the idea. I would cut a hole in the port cover for it, and drill and tap mounting holes. Of course do this before messing with formagasket. Hope this helps. http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/ Den 48yf EAGLE |
#9
posted to rec.boats.building
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Fuel tank baffle question
Last question and I'll leave you alone:
Where do I find sheets of neoprene as I was thinking of using engine manifold gasket material. I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene, formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. Step1: Drill bolt holes in the 1ft square aluminum port covers. at least 4 to a side equally spaced. Step2: Center the port cover over the cutout, and center punch thru the bolt holes for the tap drill. Mark a corner for reference, in case the holes are not uniform. Step3: Tapdrill, and tap. Note tapping aluminum sucks because it is so soft the tap plugs up. BACKUP several times, and clean tap. Step3: Clean all the shavings with a vacuum. (I am assuming you have a clean dry tank here) Don't want them to look for your filter. Step4: Lay the port cover over the neoprene, and mark for punching holes. and punch. Step5: Spread the formagasket around the port, 2" or more wide. Step6: Lay neoprene over cutout, spread a 1/4" bead around each bolt hole, and lay on the port cover. Step6: Tighten all screws. OOPS i forgot. The start of this was the fuel guage sender. You get the idea. I would cut a hole in the port cover for it, and drill and tap mounting holes. Of course do this before messing with formagasket. Hope this helps. http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/ Den 48yf EAGLE |
#10
posted to rec.boats.building
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Fuel tank baffle question
Jim and Becky wrote: Last question and I'll leave you alone: Where do I find sheets of neoprene as I was thinking of using engine manifold gasket material. Hey No problem.. I wish i had someone to clue me in on what I am doing. I got it at a hardware store in LA. Ca. No HD or Lowes a real one. Don't know where you are, but. i can git the address for you. OOPS my battery is going away, so will continue this tomorrow. sorry |
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