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#1
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Usually they go from the bottom almost to the top, to within a couple
of inches or so. The bottom has the corners cut out to allow the fuel to flow back and forth. The trick is figuring out where they are. Hopefully you can see some weld marks or something to tell you where they're at. |
#2
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![]() Keith wrote: Usually they go from the bottom almost to the top, to within a couple of inches or so. The bottom has the corners cut out to allow the fuel to flow back and forth. The trick is figuring out where they are. Hopefully you can see some weld marks or something to tell you where they're at. Take a look at http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...t/P1010166.jpg I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene, formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. The baffels are floor to cieling, and corners cut at bottom, with 2" holes in the 200 gal tanks. No 2" holes in the 100 gal tanks. 3 baffels in the 200 gal, and 2 in the 100 gal. As Keith says look for weldmarks, or take a clothsehanger, and probe around. I bet you end up cleaning out the tank, so make the goles big enough to do the dirty deed. Den 48yf EAGLE |
#3
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I'd like to know your plan with the Neoprene, Formagasket and aluminum.
You're going to layer them somehow I take it. I know the Formagasket will stay soft in case you want to remove them. I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene, formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. The baffels are floor to cieling, and corners cut at bottom, with 2" holes in the 200 gal tanks. No 2" holes in the 100 gal tanks. 3 baffels in the 200 gal, and 2 in the 100 gal. As Keith says look for weldmarks, or take a clothsehanger, and probe around. I bet you end up cleaning out the tank, so make the goles big enough to do the dirty deed. Den 48yf EAGLE |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Jim and Becky wrote:
I'd like to know your plan with the Neoprene, Formagasket and aluminum. You're going to layer them somehow I take it. I know the Formagasket will stay soft in case you want to remove them. I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene, formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. Step1: Drill bolt holes in the 1ft square aluminum port covers. at least 4 to a side equally spaced. Step2: Center the port cover over the cutout, and center punch thru the bolt holes for the tap drill. Mark a corner for reference, in case the holes are not uniform. Step3: Tapdrill, and tap. Note tapping aluminum sucks because it is so soft the tap plugs up. BACKUP several times, and clean tap. Step3: Clean all the shavings with a vacuum. (I am assuming you have a clean dry tank here) Don't want them to look for your filter. Step4: Lay the port cover over the neoprene, and mark for punching holes. and punch. Step5: Spread the formagasket around the port, 2" or more wide. Step6: Lay neoprene over cutout, spread a 1/4" bead around each bolt hole, and lay on the port cover. Step6: Tighten all screws. OOPS i forgot. The start of this was the fuel guage sender. You get the idea. I would cut a hole in the port cover for it, and drill and tap mounting holes. Of course do this before messing with formagasket. Hope this helps. http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/ Den 48yf EAGLE |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Last question and I'll leave you alone:
Where do I find sheets of neoprene as I was thinking of using engine manifold gasket material. I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene, formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. Step1: Drill bolt holes in the 1ft square aluminum port covers. at least 4 to a side equally spaced. Step2: Center the port cover over the cutout, and center punch thru the bolt holes for the tap drill. Mark a corner for reference, in case the holes are not uniform. Step3: Tapdrill, and tap. Note tapping aluminum sucks because it is so soft the tap plugs up. BACKUP several times, and clean tap. Step3: Clean all the shavings with a vacuum. (I am assuming you have a clean dry tank here) Don't want them to look for your filter. Step4: Lay the port cover over the neoprene, and mark for punching holes. and punch. Step5: Spread the formagasket around the port, 2" or more wide. Step6: Lay neoprene over cutout, spread a 1/4" bead around each bolt hole, and lay on the port cover. Step6: Tighten all screws. OOPS i forgot. The start of this was the fuel guage sender. You get the idea. I would cut a hole in the port cover for it, and drill and tap mounting holes. Of course do this before messing with formagasket. Hope this helps. http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/ Den 48yf EAGLE |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() Jim and Becky wrote: Last question and I'll leave you alone: Where do I find sheets of neoprene as I was thinking of using engine manifold gasket material. Hey No problem.. I wish i had someone to clue me in on what I am doing. I got it at a hardware store in LA. Ca. No HD or Lowes a real one. Don't know where you are, but. i can git the address for you. OOPS my battery is going away, so will continue this tomorrow. sorry |
#7
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() den wrote: Jim and Becky wrote: Last question and I'll leave you alone: Where do I find sheets of neoprene as I was thinking of using engine manifold gasket material. Hey No problem.. Here was my source for 1/8 inch thick. Shamrock Supply Co. LA 1 800 624 3814 Orange 1 800 341 5563 www.shamrocksupply.com The website is not too useful as an ordering site. Den |
#8
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Try http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm and search for "raw materials,
rubber materials, sheet materials, neoprene" and pick a thickness and size These guys aren't the cheapest, but they want to be your toolroom so they're used to small quantities and deliver instantly, at least here in Southern Indiana. Roger http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm "Jim and Becky" wrote in message ... Last question and I'll leave you alone: Where do I find sheets of neoprene as I was thinking of using engine manifold gasket material. I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene, formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. Step1: Drill bolt holes in the 1ft square aluminum port covers. at least 4 to a side equally spaced. Step2: Center the port cover over the cutout, and center punch thru the bolt holes for the tap drill. Mark a corner for reference, in case the holes are not uniform. Step3: Tapdrill, and tap. Note tapping aluminum sucks because it is so soft the tap plugs up. BACKUP several times, and clean tap. Step3: Clean all the shavings with a vacuum. (I am assuming you have a clean dry tank here) Don't want them to look for your filter. Step4: Lay the port cover over the neoprene, and mark for punching holes. and punch. Step5: Spread the formagasket around the port, 2" or more wide. Step6: Lay neoprene over cutout, spread a 1/4" bead around each bolt hole, and lay on the port cover. Step6: Tighten all screws. OOPS i forgot. The start of this was the fuel guage sender. You get the idea. I would cut a hole in the port cover for it, and drill and tap mounting holes. Of course do this before messing with formagasket. Hope this helps. http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/ Den 48yf EAGLE |
#9
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I thought I had posted this earlier, but it didn't show up. Here is a
good access plate system that I used on the side of my tank. http://www.seabuilt.com/ Cut holes in each baffled area, cleaned out, then lined the inside of the tank with aviation fuel tank sealer. Cures up flexible, will seal any small leaks, works very well. Just lots of work. |
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