kyle wrote:

snip

question1) how do i remove the rotten plywood.. do i take a saw and
just cut the wood out.. or is it screwed in somewhere.. do i need to be
careful *where* i cut? what is underneath the plywood.. more wood
(that is probably rotten as well)??

Remove the plywood in as large a piece(s) as possible, then later use
them as a pattern for replacement.

question2) i've read that if you fiberglass over plywood, sometimes the
fiberglass cracks and lets water seep into the plywood and rots all
over again.. ?? myth or truth?

It depends.

Epoxy provides a water tight bond to wood, polyester resin does not.

Use epoxy for repair work.

question3) so.. what i really want to do is have plywood and then a
paint with sand in it to give a grip to the feet when walking.. and be
done with it.. what plywood/paint/anything in between the two should i
use?

You can use any kind of plywood available if you cover it with epoxy
and glass.


If it were me, I'd use a piece of cheap, 1/2", 4 ply, CDX plywood with
a layer of DB170 (17 OZ, double bias, knitted glass) on each side,
then seal the edges with a layer of 4" "boat tape" (about 6 OZ glass).

It will be bullet proof.

Lew

Lew,

Thanks for the response. Two questions.

1) 4" "boat tape" (about 6 OZ glass) -- is this 6 OZ fiberglass, or is
it something else called "boat tape" (or they are one in the same)??

2) If I fiberglass, then lay marine carpet.. what do you think the life
expectancy of the deck will be with continuous water splashing on the
deck soaking into the carpet?? or should i just do the evercoat
skid-no-more solution.. this is my first boat and i am worried it might
hurt the kids feet? but i don't want to do this whole project over 3
yrs from now either...



Lew Hodgett wrote:
kyle wrote:

snip

question1) how do i remove the rotten plywood.. do i take a saw and
just cut the wood out.. or is it screwed in somewhere.. do i need to be
careful *where* i cut? what is underneath the plywood.. more wood
(that is probably rotten as well)??

Remove the plywood in as large a piece(s) as possible, then later use
them as a pattern for replacement.

question2) i've read that if you fiberglass over plywood, sometimes the
fiberglass cracks and lets water seep into the plywood and rots all
over again.. ?? myth or truth?

It depends.

Epoxy provides a water tight bond to wood, polyester resin does not.

Use epoxy for repair work.

question3) so.. what i really want to do is have plywood and then a
paint with sand in it to give a grip to the feet when walking.. and be
done with it.. what plywood/paint/anything in between the two should i
use?

You can use any kind of plywood available if you cover it with epoxy
and glass.


If it were me, I'd use a piece of cheap, 1/2", 4 ply, CDX plywood with
a layer of DB170 (17 OZ, double bias, knitted glass) on each side,
then seal the edges with a layer of 4" "boat tape" (about 6 OZ glass).

It will be bullet proof.

Lew

kyle wrote:


1) 4" "boat tape" (about 6 OZ glass) -- is this 6 OZ fiberglass, or is
it something else called "boat tape" (or they are one in the same)??

They are one and the same. "Boat Tape" is a generic description of a
light weight glass tape sold in 50' rolls.

2) If I fiberglass, then lay marine carpet.. what do you think the life
expectancy of the deck will be with continuous water splashing on the
deck soaking into the carpet?? or should i just do the evercoat
skid-no-more solution.. this is my first boat and i am worried it might
hurt the kids feet? but i don't want to do this whole project over 3
yrs from now either...

Save your money and forget the carpet.

The glass itself will provide a rough enough surface, just paint it to
provide UV resistance for the epoxy.

BTW, you want to bond the new deck to the stringers with SikaFlex 291.

Have fun.

Lew

OK. Awesome answers. One more question then I'm done for the day

When I cut the piece of rotten plywood out from th eboat, then cut a
fresh piece in the exact size.. what do I do first?

1) I fiberglass/epoxy it the 4 coats (seal, bond, fill, finish -- are
all of these needed for what i'm doing??) -- both sides & edges
2) do I need to create any butt-joints to mesh with other sides of
plywood still mounted to stringers?
3) apply a thick coat of sikaflex to the stringer, then lay the glassed
piece down / joint it

?


Lew Hodgett wrote:
kyle wrote:


1) 4" "boat tape" (about 6 OZ glass) -- is this 6 OZ fiberglass, or is
it something else called "boat tape" (or they are one in the same)??

They are one and the same. "Boat Tape" is a generic description of a
light weight glass tape sold in 50' rolls.

2) If I fiberglass, then lay marine carpet.. what do you think the life
expectancy of the deck will be with continuous water splashing on the
deck soaking into the carpet?? or should i just do the evercoat
skid-no-more solution.. this is my first boat and i am worried it might
hurt the kids feet? but i don't want to do this whole project over 3
yrs from now either...

Save your money and forget the carpet.

The glass itself will provide a rough enough surface, just paint it to
provide UV resistance for the epoxy.

BTW, you want to bond the new deck to the stringers with SikaFlex 291.

Have fun.

Lew

kyle wrote:

When I cut the piece of rotten plywood out from th eboat, then cut a
fresh piece in the exact size.. what do I do first?

1) I fiberglass/epoxy it the 4 coats (seal, bond, fill, finish -- are
all of these needed for what i'm doing??) -- both sides & edges
2) do I need to create any butt-joints to mesh with other sides of
plywood still mounted to stringers?
3) apply a thick coat of sikaflex to the stringer, then lay the glassed
piece down / joint it


My answers are based on replacing the entire sole, not just part of it.

You fit the plywood, then glass it totally to encapsulate it, then
finally fit it using the SikaFlex 291.

Finally, you come back and seal the sole to hull joint with a layer of
boat tape.

If you have butt joints in the plywood, seal them with a layer of
DB-170, say 8" wide, on both sides, then come back and finish glassing
the plywood.

The alternate is to use 2 layers of plywood, say 3/8" thick, spacing
the butt joints so they are covered.

Have fun.

Lew

I know it's a little off from what I had mentioned earlier.. but I was
talking with my brother about my plan.. and he said you really should
put carpet down on a ski boat.. well with that in mind...

Could I simply spread 2-3 coats of epoxy (no fiberglass) and then put
the marine carpet down?

Or should I do the full nine yards of 4 coats of epoxy/glass and then
lay the marine carpet over that? What is the fiberglassing buying me?



Lew Hodgett wrote:
kyle wrote:

When I cut the piece of rotten plywood out from th eboat, then cut a
fresh piece in the exact size.. what do I do first?

1) I fiberglass/epoxy it the 4 coats (seal, bond, fill, finish -- are
all of these needed for what i'm doing??) -- both sides & edges
2) do I need to create any butt-joints to mesh with other sides of
plywood still mounted to stringers?
3) apply a thick coat of sikaflex to the stringer, then lay the glassed
piece down / joint it


My answers are based on replacing the entire sole, not just part of it.

You fit the plywood, then glass it totally to encapsulate it, then
finally fit it using the SikaFlex 291.

Finally, you come back and seal the sole to hull joint with a layer of
boat tape.

If you have butt joints in the plywood, seal them with a layer of
DB-170, say 8" wide, on both sides, then come back and finish glassing
the plywood.

The alternate is to use 2 layers of plywood, say 3/8" thick, spacing
the butt joints so they are covered.

Have fun.

Lew

kyle wrote:
I know it's a little off from what I had mentioned earlier.. but I was
talking with my brother about my plan.. and he said you really should
put carpet down on a ski boat..

snip

Do as you choose, but IMHO, carpet belongs in houses, not on boats.

Can't think of a single reason to put carpet on a boat, but everybody
has gotta be someplace.

Lew