hi all,

we went rowing on the maribrynong river in Melbourne, Australia
yesterday. The boat went well but the oars and particulary the rowlocks
left a lot to be desired. We can do some work on the rowlocks and
improve them my using a closer fit between the rowlock pin and the
rowlock socket to stop the rattle.

We wil also add a spacer to rasie the rowlock becuase on the backstroke
a plastic fairing on the oar was scraping on the gunnel.

As to getting a new pair of oars I have found a site but it requires
having a shaft of 49mm diameter timber. As to making something like
this how practical is it to make a makeshift lathe using an electic
drill and then to shape some sqare section timber.

I have contacted a supplier of rowing sculls and they can provide me
with a pair of rowlocks for $120, good but a bit steep. A single oar
we have costed at $200 Aust!!, a bit steep, thus our interest making
out own.

help with how to turn the timber or a cheaper quality rowlock supplier
in australia would be very much appreciated.

regards,
n peter evans

Woodenboat magazine has a very good forum where there are many people,
including some in OZ, who will point you to plans and very good books and
other resources for oars . Find it here.
http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/ Ask your question there.

The bronze rowlocks I use on ordinary dinghies cost about $20 US per pair
and the timber for a good pair of oars would be well under $100 US.



"peter E" wrote in message
oups.com...
hi all,

we went rowing on the maribrynong river in Melbourne, Australia
yesterday. The boat went well but the oars and particulary the rowlocks
left a lot to be desired. We can do some work on the rowlocks and
improve them my using a closer fit between the rowlock pin and the
rowlock socket to stop the rattle.

We wil also add a spacer to rasie the rowlock becuase on the backstroke
a plastic fairing on the oar was scraping on the gunnel.

As to getting a new pair of oars I have found a site but it requires
having a shaft of 49mm diameter timber. As to making something like
this how practical is it to make a makeshift lathe using an electic
drill and then to shape some sqare section timber.

I have contacted a supplier of rowing sculls and they can provide me
with a pair of rowlocks for $120, good but a bit steep. A single oar
we have costed at $200 Aust!!, a bit steep, thus our interest making
out own.

help with how to turn the timber or a cheaper quality rowlock supplier
in australia would be very much appreciated.

regards,
n peter evans

peter E wrote:

As to getting a new pair of oars I have found a site but it requires
having a shaft of 49mm diameter timber. As to making something like
this how practical is it to make a makeshift lathe using an electic
drill and then to shape some sqare section timber.

Nothing says oars have to be round the full length. It is easy to
make them octaganol too with a saw. For a round area in way of the
locks, a plane and/or rasp will do it. So would a quarter round
router bit of the proper size. Shafts can be made by gluing up
thinner stock too.

Here's a link to some easily constructed oars. I made and use them,
cost maybe $15-$20 for the pair...
http://bateau.com/free/oarimages/simple_oars.pdf



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

WoodenBoat magazine has a searchable index. I am sure there have been
articles on making oars. The usual way is to start with square stock, mark
it for octagonal and then make it round where you want round. Blades can be
either glued-up or cut from a solid (and larger expensive) piece. Making
oars is joyful work and using your own oars is priceless.
Dave
"peter E" wrote in message
oups.com...
hi all,

we went rowing on the maribrynong river in Melbourne, Australia
yesterday. The boat went well but the oars and particulary the rowlocks
left a lot to be desired. We can do some work on the rowlocks and
improve them my using a closer fit between the rowlock pin and the
rowlock socket to stop the rattle.

We wil also add a spacer to rasie the rowlock becuase on the backstroke
a plastic fairing on the oar was scraping on the gunnel.

As to getting a new pair of oars I have found a site but it requires
having a shaft of 49mm diameter timber. As to making something like
this how practical is it to make a makeshift lathe using an electic
drill and then to shape some sqare section timber.

I have contacted a supplier of rowing sculls and they can provide me
with a pair of rowlocks for $120, good but a bit steep. A single oar
we have costed at $200 Aust!!, a bit steep, thus our interest making
out own.

help with how to turn the timber or a cheaper quality rowlock supplier
in australia would be very much appreciated.

regards,
n peter evans

On Fri, 15 Sep 2006 15:59:07 -0400, "Dave W"
wrote:

WoodenBoat magazine has a searchable index. I am sure there have been
articles on making oars. The usual way is to start with square stock, mark
it for octagonal and then make it round where you want round. Blades can be
either glued-up or cut from a solid (and larger expensive) piece. Making
oars is joyful work and using your own oars is priceless.
Dave
Dave,
"making oars is joyful work". What a delightful expression for the
task. Thanks for that. Makes me want to break out the planes.

To the OP.
Went through the books I thought might possibly have oarmaking
information and other than a chapter in one of Larry Chowning's
excellent books on Chesapeake waterman's traditions of making sculling
oars, I found only Pete Culler's book Skiffs And Schooners had part of
a chapter on oars and Good Skiffs had a Culler followup.
While Culler does have dimensions of an oar his comments of what makes
a good oar and a bad one ring true and if you've had the experience of
struggling with inadequate off the shelf oars you will understand
immediately his logic as to how to make a good one. But who can read
only one page of Culler....I am lost for the rest of the evening.
Google produced much good information and I would recommend that as a
good place to start. Regarding the lathe Dynamite Payson's site from
the Google search has some good ideas about avoiding such machinery.
Most of the oars I am familiar with, like canoe paddles, have the
outside sections of the blades glued to a center section so as not to
waste wood during construction
These books may not be readily available down under so if you like,
provided my scanner is still functional, I can scan them in and email
to you.
Respond to .

Kiyu