What's a thick tough 1 or 2 part paint for wooden oars - have 2 sets
of avon 2 piece oars and 1 set hard dingy oars that I don't want to
have to repaint ever again.

I stripped them to bare wood, coated with West epoxy and have sprayed
on 2 coats of 2 part epoxy primer - what's the last coat - I have some
Sterling 2 part LP I could use but oars tend to live in the wet
bottoms of dinks and LP doesn't like to be immersed in water. Besides
it's not abrasion resistant - oars get used for testing bottom depths,
pushing off rocks, etc Needs to be UV proof, abrasion & water proof.

How about a good quality exterior latex semigloss - would that stand
up to the torture?

On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 10:19:38 -0700, Tom wrote:

What's a thick tough 1 or 2 part paint for wooden oars - have 2 sets
of avon 2 piece oars and 1 set hard dingy oars that I don't want to
have to repaint ever again.

I stripped them to bare wood, coated with West epoxy and have sprayed
on 2 coats of 2 part epoxy primer - what's the last coat - I have some
Sterling 2 part LP I could use but oars tend to live in the wet
bottoms of dinks and LP doesn't like to be immersed in water. Besides
it's not abrasion resistant - oars get used for testing bottom depths,
pushing off rocks, etc Needs to be UV proof, abrasion & water proof.

How about a good quality exterior latex semigloss - would that stand
up to the torture?

Walmart porch paint - $15 a gal.
Rick Itenson
La Belle Aurore
Toronto

If you don't want to re-paint, don't use the oars. Any paint that I know
will not be completely proof to the scuffs and bangs that oars get. No
matter what you do, they'll get scuffed up. So, i varnish my oars annually
until they get too bad, then it's ordinary alkyd enamel.

Tom wrote:

What's a thick tough 1 or 2 part paint for wooden oars - have 2 sets
of avon 2 piece oars and 1 set hard dingy oars that I don't want to
have to repaint ever again.

I stripped them to bare wood, coated with West epoxy and have sprayed
on 2 coats of 2 part epoxy primer - what's the last coat - I have some
Sterling 2 part LP I could use but oars tend to live in the wet
bottoms of dinks and LP doesn't like to be immersed in water. Besides
it's not abrasion resistant - oars get used for testing bottom depths,
pushing off rocks, etc Needs to be UV proof, abrasion & water proof.

How about a good quality exterior latex semigloss - would that stand
up to the torture?

since you've already given them three coats of epoxy resin why not add a
couple more tinted coats. no paint will hold up like tinted resin. I'd
have put on one clear coat and two tinted coats with extra coats at points
of wear. as for pushing off I put fibreglass imregnated resin on the end
of my paddle which gets the same sort of abuse. again, add colour to the
resin and forget painting, IMHO.

Tom ) writes:
What's a thick tough 1 or 2 part paint for wooden oars - have 2 sets
of avon 2 piece oars and 1 set hard dingy oars that I don't want to
have to repaint ever again.

I stripped them to bare wood, coated with West epoxy and have sprayed
on 2 coats of 2 part epoxy primer - what's the last coat - I have some
Sterling 2 part LP I could use but oars tend to live in the wet
bottoms of dinks and LP doesn't like to be immersed in water. Besides
it's not abrasion resistant - oars get used for testing bottom depths,
pushing off rocks, etc Needs to be UV proof, abrasion & water proof.

How about a good quality exterior latex semigloss - would that stand
up to the torture?



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You are asking an awful lot from paint

Tom wrote:
What's a thick tough 1 or 2 part paint for wooden oars - have 2 sets
of avon 2 piece oars and 1 set hard dingy oars that I don't want to
have to repaint ever again.

I stripped them to bare wood, coated with West epoxy and have sprayed
on 2 coats of 2 part epoxy primer - what's the last coat - I have some
Sterling 2 part LP I could use but oars tend to live in the wet
bottoms of dinks and LP doesn't like to be immersed in water. Besides
it's not abrasion resistant - oars get used for testing bottom depths,
pushing off rocks, etc Needs to be UV proof, abrasion & water proof.

How about a good quality exterior latex semigloss - would that stand
up to the torture?

Quite - when I was a kid, I was disappointed because the store -bought
paddles for the home-built kayak did not have a copper end sheath on
the blades. They had a glass wrap. But this is an exceptionally
helpful way of keeping water out of the end grain, and improving wear
resistance. I can commend the approach for oars - the boot need only
stretch 3/4 inch from the end. Then it was polyester resin - now,
epoxy bonded fine cloth or tape would be the cat's whiskers.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 02:52:40 GMT, steveJ wrote:

You are asking an awful lot from paint

Tom wrote:
What's a thick tough 1 or 2 part paint for wooden oars - have 2 sets
of avon 2 piece oars and 1 set hard dingy oars that I don't want to
have to repaint ever again.

I stripped them to bare wood, coated with West epoxy and have sprayed
on 2 coats of 2 part epoxy primer - what's the last coat - I have some
Sterling 2 part LP I could use but oars tend to live in the wet
bottoms of dinks and LP doesn't like to be immersed in water. Besides
it's not abrasion resistant - oars get used for testing bottom depths,
pushing off rocks, etc Needs to be UV proof, abrasion & water proof.

How about a good quality exterior latex semigloss - would that stand
up to the torture?