Now, it looks like CPES is somewhat expensive. Might it be somewhat
cheaper, and work just as well, to buy a fiberglass mat-and-resin kit
from the local auto parts store and put one or two layers of glass over
the plywood?

Also, the factory rudder is a kickup design. Should I go ahead and
attempt this, or should I keep it simple? Any good sources for design
ideas for eithe fixed or kickup rudders?

wrote in message
ups.com...

Now, it looks like CPES is somewhat expensive. Might it be somewhat
cheaper, and work just as well, to buy a fiberglass mat-and-resin kit
from the local auto parts store and put one or two layers of glass over
the plywood?

That won't work. The auto part muck is polyester and mat, which does not
stick to wood. It might look like it does, but a baby could peel it off....

Meindert

The factory rudder is a kickup design. Should I go ahead and
attempt this, or should I keep it simple? Any good sources for design
ideas for either fixed or kickup rudders?

There's a couple of different ways to make a kick-up rudder. The most
common is to use a case with the rudder on a pivot in the middle. There's a
couple of pictures of one I built at
http://www.floatingbear.ca/MiniCupModifications.htm. You may also want to
check out Jim Michelak's free online newsletters for more ideas -
http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/

BTW - I've used barn-boards (1 X 12 pine) that is easily available to me as
rudders and daggerboards and they've been inexpensive and worked well.

--
Andrew Butchart


wrote in message
oups.com...



The factory rudder is a kickup design. Should I go ahead and
attempt this, or should I keep it simple? Any good sources for design
ideas for either fixed or kickup rudders?

Andrew Butchart wrote:
There's a couple of different ways to make a kick-up rudder. The most
common is to use a case with the rudder on a pivot in the middle. There's a
couple of pictures of one I built at
http://www.floatingbear.ca/MiniCupModifications.htm. You may also want to
check out Jim Michelak's free online newsletters for more ideas -
http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/

BTW - I've used barn-boards (1 X 12 pine) that is easily available to me as
rudders and daggerboards and they've been inexpensive and worked well.

--
Andrew Butchart



Now, that looks like a fairly simple design. What did you use for the
sides of the rudder box? Luan, or marine plywood? Or something else?
And what did you finish the wood with? Also, what would make an
inexpensive substitute for a hockey stick for a tiller? Does it have to
be hardwood, or would more of the "barn board" work? And what did you
use for hinges? It looks like the hinge hookups on the Snark are two
metal tabs with holes drilled through them vertically, like one long
pin (or 2 short ones) is supposed to drop through them. Thanks!

wrote in message
oups.com...


Andrew Butchart wrote:
There's a couple of different ways to make a kick-up rudder. The most
common is to use a case with the rudder on a pivot in the middle.
There's a
couple of pictures of one I built at
http://www.floatingbear.ca/MiniCupModifications.htm. You may also want
to
check out Jim Michelak's free online newsletters for more ideas -
http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/

BTW - I've used barn-boards (1 X 12 pine) that is easily available to me
as
rudders and daggerboards and they've been inexpensive and worked well.

--
Andrew Butchart



Now, that looks like a fairly simple design. What did you use for the
sides of the rudder box? Luan, or marine plywood? Or something else?
And what did you finish the wood with? Also, what would make an
inexpensive substitute for a hockey stick for a tiller? Does it have to
be hardwood, or would more of the "barn board" work? And what did you
use for hinges? It looks like the hinge hookups on the Snark are two
metal tabs with holes drilled through them vertically, like one long
pin (or 2 short ones) is supposed to drop through them. Thanks!


I just used 1/4" luan for the sides of the rudder box. I coat the inside of
the box with resin (I use polyester - epoxy is better though - although more
expensive). The rudder itself got coated with resin and then painted with
rust pain.

One thing I like about old hockey sticks for tillers is not only are they
free and available here in Canada, but the better ones include fiberglass
laminates. A lot of people use axe handles for a tiller as well - I've
sailed on a boat with one of those and they're quite comfortable in your
hand.

There are lots of ways to attach the rudder to the boat - it sounds like you
have a typical gudgeon and pintle arrangement. You might want to check out
Duckworks - http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/p-g/index.htm

You could also consider putting two small eye-bolts on the front of your
rudder box spaced so they fit between the metal tabs. A piece of metal rod
through can then act as a pivot. I have a blurry picture of one I built
like that at - http://www.floatingbear.ca/sailingfi...gue/000833.JPG

--
Andrew Butchart

Andrew Butchart wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...


Andrew Butchart wrote:
There's a couple of different ways to make a kick-up rudder. The most
common is to use a case with the rudder on a pivot in the middle.
There's a
couple of pictures of one I built at
http://www.floatingbear.ca/MiniCupModifications.htm. You may also want
to
check out Jim Michelak's free online newsletters for more ideas -
http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/

BTW - I've used barn-boards (1 X 12 pine) that is easily available to me
as
rudders and daggerboards and they've been inexpensive and worked well.

--
Andrew Butchart



Now, that looks like a fairly simple design. What did you use for the
sides of the rudder box? Luan, or marine plywood? Or something else?
And what did you finish the wood with? Also, what would make an
inexpensive substitute for a hockey stick for a tiller? Does it have to
be hardwood, or would more of the "barn board" work? And what did you
use for hinges? It looks like the hinge hookups on the Snark are two
metal tabs with holes drilled through them vertically, like one long
pin (or 2 short ones) is supposed to drop through them. Thanks!


I just used 1/4" luan for the sides of the rudder box. I coat the inside of
the box with resin (I use polyester - epoxy is better though - although more
expensive). The rudder itself got coated with resin and then painted with
rust pain.

One thing I like about old hockey sticks for tillers is not only are they
free and available here in Canada, but the better ones include fiberglass
laminates. A lot of people use axe handles for a tiller as well - I've
sailed on a boat with one of those and they're quite comfortable in your
hand.

There are lots of ways to attach the rudder to the boat - it sounds like you
have a typical gudgeon and pintle arrangement. You might want to check out
Duckworks - http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/p-g/index.htm

You could also consider putting two small eye-bolts on the front of your
rudder box spaced so they fit between the metal tabs. A piece of metal rod
through can then act as a pivot. I have a blurry picture of one I built
like that at - http://www.floatingbear.ca/sailingfi...gue/000833.JPG

--
Andrew Butchart


Thanks! Now, if I can solve my mast problem I can hopefully get the
boat sailing before summer ends!

wrote:

Thanks! Now, if I can solve my mast problem I can hopefully get the
boat sailing before summer ends!

Have you considered using a wooden mast? 12' is pretty short and you
should be able to make something fairly easily especially if you have a
table saw that you can use to "8 - side" it. The only real difference
is the chance of the wood swelling and it being stuck in the mast tube
(leave some space to allow for that) and a slight additional weight
aloft.

--
Andrew Butchart