"Dave W" wrote in message ...
I have used a joint that Dynamite Payson developed. It calls for making a
butt joint by scarfing both sides of the stock and using epoxy/glass for the
joint. Lay the pieces on a flat surface in position. Mark the length of
the scarf on both ends. Grind half way through both pieces where they meet
and tapering to nothing at the ends of the scarfs.

You don't have to taper it down that far. I just take the pieces
temporarily end to end and belt sand down about 30% of the way through
the pieces (6mm-1/4" material) making a slight trough about 4-5" wide,
lay in a couple of layers of fiberglass tape, say 6 oz, fill with
resin, and cover it with a sheet of wax paper to cure, flip and repeat
on the other side of the board. (note: it is easier to wet the
fiberglass material before laying it on the part, soak the part good
first too. Remember, it is easier to draw goo up through cloth, than
drive goo down into air under cloth I have even used a couple of
layers of 3.5oz tight weave right on the outside of the wood, both
sides, putty in the edges, paint. Although the joint you make has a
"bulge", it will also tend not to bend there. So when you bend the
part around the frames, the flatspot has a nice "bulge" to fair right
in and paint over... Hope that makes sence, it is the easiest of all
but should not be done without the advice of the designer.
Scotty


This results in a
shallow vee spanning both pieces. Fill the vee with glass cloth, roving and
epoxy. When set, grind the epoxy surface flat. Now, carefully turn the
assembly over and make another vee just like before. Fill vee as on the
other side. This makes a very strong joint and if done carefully is not
detectable (if painted). Email me if the method is not clear.
Dave
"Chalatso" wrote in message
. ..
Graduating to my first multi-sheet stitch-n-glue... butt joints with
blocks
are ugly, scarfing will throw off my sheet layout. Can I use a plain butt
joint, supported on both sides by glass and epoxy?

Chuck