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#1
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Hey all,
I'm the final stages of prepping a hull for painting. I've finsished with sanding and fairing and have some large patches of fairing compound, made out of epoxy and micoballoons, on the hull. Do I have to put on another coat (oy!) of epoxy over the compound? Some authorities say to go right to painting at this stage but others say the fairing compound has to be sealed with epoxy. I really don't mind the extra work but the hull is looking really good and I don't want to take the chance of messing up the hull with an unneccessary step. Also, I'm probably going to go with a coat of high hiding primer (the boat won't be stored in the water). Opinions? Thanks, Paul |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Paul:
Missing information includes: Bottom or Topside painting? Wood, Fiberglass, Steel, other? In most cases, remove the word 'probably' in the sentence with the word primer and you'll be fine. This would be mandatory for a two-part (i.e. polyurathane) paint system, and lilely just as necessary with one part polyurethane as well. There's a ton of useful information at: http:/www.yachtpaint.com Mike Worrall Los Angeles |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Thanks for the heads up
Missing information: Stitch and glue plywood construction, epoxy and fiberglass overlays the wood ( no wood is exposed ), one part polyurethane finish, the area in question is the entire hull. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.building
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I would seal it to get a final moisture barrier outside the microballoons.
I faired the bottom of Rutu before turning her over and figured I better seal it up well not only for a moisture barrier but some protection during the rest of construction. I rolled and tipped three coats of epoxy with about 60% by weight copper. I could see my face in it. I will be doing the same to the topsides (without the copper). Then sand to about 240 before applying the high build primer and 2 part LPU. I tested that substrate/primer/topcoat combination on my Gerr Nester and that poor little boat has been sitting upside down by the pond in full sun for 3 years now and looks as good as the day the paint cured. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com wrote in message oups.com... Thanks for the heads up Missing information: Stitch and glue plywood construction, epoxy and fiberglass overlays the wood ( no wood is exposed ), one part polyurethane finish, the area in question is the entire hull. |
#5
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"Glenn Ashmore" writes:
I would seal it to get a final moisture barrier outside the microballoons. When building my boat I painted (2-part LP) directly on the fairing compound and as far I can see it works just fine. My boat enters its 20th season right now. http://hem.bredband.net/b262106/ -- Martin Schöön "Problems worthy of attack show their worth by hitting back." Piet Hein |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.building
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I would go to a good high build primer and then paint after that.
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#7
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#8
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THe only way to seal the fairing compound of a male one off is to "tight
glaze" the compound with Rojo after the hull is fair, then shoot high build primer followed by LP. Lots of sanding in between. Anything less and you are kidding yourself. Lew |
#9
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Tried doing a web search but no lucky ...what is "Rojo"?
Thx, Brian "cavelamb" wrote in message ink.net... Lew Hodgett wrote: THe only way to seal the fairing compound of a male one off is to "tight glaze" the compound with Rojo after the hull is fair, then shoot high build primer followed by LP. Lots of sanding in between. Anything less and you are kidding yourself. Lew Lew, that sounds like the voice of experience talking... Richard |
#10
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cavelamb wrote:
Lew, that sounds like the voice of experience talking... Yep. Lew |
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