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#1
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Loctite for bolts
I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 - floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4" & 5" long. Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts? Thanks in advance Adam |
#2
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Loctite for bolts
No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in the
future. Joe "Adam" wrote in message ... I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 - floors are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4" & 5" long. Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts? Thanks in advance Adam |
#3
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Loctite for bolts
JSE wrote:
No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in the future. If you use Loctite #222 (pink/purple - low strength) or #242 (blue - medium strength), the fasteners can be readily taken apart at a later date. These two formulations are specifically designed for that. Loctite #271 (red - high strength) is designed to be essentially permanent and wouldn't be suitable. |
#4
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Loctite for bolts
Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the
future. Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is done permanently. What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future? Adam "Brian Nystrom" wrote in message ... JSE wrote: No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in the future. If you use Loctite #222 (pink/purple - low strength) or #242 (blue - medium strength), the fasteners can be readily taken apart at a later date. These two formulations are specifically designed for that. Loctite #271 (red - high strength) is designed to be essentially permanent and wouldn't be suitable. |
#5
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Loctite for bolts
In case anything goes wrong.
"Adam" wrote in message ... Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the future. Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is done permanently. What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future? Adam |
#6
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Loctite for bolts
It's been my experience that whatever you mess with starts a cascade effect
on the parts around it. Whether it be from the way the new verses old parts handle stress differently or if you just miss something or mess up in the measurements. You may also decide on design changes down the road. No matter what, I'll always recommend stainless and nylock at sea.....corrosion does weird things to all materials that aren't water. Joe "Adam" wrote in message ... Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the future. Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is done permanently. What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future? Adam "Brian Nystrom" wrote in message ... JSE wrote: No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in the future. If you use Loctite #222 (pink/purple - low strength) or #242 (blue - medium strength), the fasteners can be readily taken apart at a later date. These two formulations are specifically designed for that. Loctite #271 (red - high strength) is designed to be essentially permanent and wouldn't be suitable. |
#7
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Loctite for bolts
JSE wrote:
It's been my experience that whatever you mess with starts a cascade effect on the parts around it. Whether it be from the way the new verses old parts handle stress differently or if you just miss something or mess up in the measurements. You may also decide on design changes down the road. No matter what, I'll always recommend stainless and nylock at sea.....corrosion does weird things to all materials that aren't water. Joe Why is nylock better than Loctite? -- the most committed always win |
#8
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Loctite for bolts
To get back to the original question, if you're simply bolting timber parts
together and it's not an offshore powerboat, loctite, lock washers and nylocks are not needed. Friction does the job. Adam wrote: I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 - floors are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4" & 5" long. Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts? Thanks in advance Adam |
#9
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Loctite for bolts
dazed and confuzed wrote:
JSE wrote: It's been my experience that whatever you mess with starts a cascade effect on the parts around it. Whether it be from the way the new verses old parts handle stress differently or if you just miss something or mess up in the measurements. You may also decide on design changes down the road. No matter what, I'll always recommend stainless and nylock at sea.....corrosion does weird things to all materials that aren't water. Joe Why is nylock better than Loctite? Well, I guess they're simpler and more durable if the fasteners are disassembled multiple times. Other than that, I don't think there is any advantage. Nyloc nuts are definitely much more expensive, bulkier and heavier than regular nuts and Loctite. |
#10
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Loctite for bolts
Adam wrote: Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the future. Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is done permanently. What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future? I don't know that you would. I was just trying to clarify a point that was made in a previous post that indicated that using Loctite could be problematic. Using the correct Loctite formulation for the application is all that's necessary. |