I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 - floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4" &
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam

No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in the
future.
Joe


"Adam" wrote in message
...
I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 -
floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4"
&
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam

JSE wrote:

No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in the
future.

If you use Loctite #222 (pink/purple - low strength) or #242 (blue -
medium strength), the fasteners can be readily taken apart at a later
date. These two formulations are specifically designed for that. Loctite
#271 (red - high strength) is designed to be essentially permanent and
wouldn't be suitable.

Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the
future.
Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is
done permanently.
What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future?
Adam
"Brian Nystrom" wrote in message
...
JSE wrote:

No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in
the
future.

If you use Loctite #222 (pink/purple - low strength) or #242 (blue -
medium strength), the fasteners can be readily taken apart at a later
date. These two formulations are specifically designed for that. Loctite
#271 (red - high strength) is designed to be essentially permanent and
wouldn't be suitable.

In case anything goes wrong.


"Adam" wrote in message
...
Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the
future.
Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is
done permanently.
What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future?
Adam

It's been my experience that whatever you mess with starts a cascade effect
on the parts around it. Whether it be from the way the new verses old parts
handle stress differently or if you just miss something or mess up in the
measurements. You may also decide on design changes down the road. No matter
what, I'll always recommend stainless and nylock at sea.....corrosion does
weird things to all materials that aren't water.
Joe


"Adam" wrote in message
...
Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the
future.
Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is
done permanently.
What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future?
Adam
"Brian Nystrom" wrote in message
...
JSE wrote:

No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in
the
future.

If you use Loctite #222 (pink/purple - low strength) or #242 (blue -
medium strength), the fasteners can be readily taken apart at a later
date. These two formulations are specifically designed for that. Loctite
#271 (red - high strength) is designed to be essentially permanent and
wouldn't be suitable.

JSE wrote:
It's been my experience that whatever you mess with starts a cascade effect
on the parts around it. Whether it be from the way the new verses old parts
handle stress differently or if you just miss something or mess up in the
measurements. You may also decide on design changes down the road. No matter
what, I'll always recommend stainless and nylock at sea.....corrosion does
weird things to all materials that aren't water.
Joe
Why is nylock better than Loctite?



--
the most committed always win

Adam wrote:

Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the
future.
Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is
done permanently.
What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future?

I don't know that you would. I was just trying to clarify a point that
was made in a previous post that indicated that using Loctite could be
problematic. Using the correct Loctite formulation for the application
is all that's necessary.

To get back to the original question, if you're simply bolting timber parts
together and it's not an offshore powerboat, loctite, lock washers and nylocks
are not needed. Friction does the job.

Adam wrote:

I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 - floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4" &
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam

Ok Adam,
Are you thoroughly confused yet? Back to the original
question............you can use loctite, however, in my 22+ years in the
U.S.Navy, it has been my experience that nyloc coupled to SS nuts and bolts
is a beautiful thing. There is no mess to clean up, the additional cost and
weight are minimal at worst, and best of all no corrosion to worry about at
all. The nyloc is injected into a hole drilled into the side of the bolt
during the mfr process. On the nut, there is a lip added during the molding,
which is filled with nylon. You buy them, you screw them together, tighten
and forget them. They will not loosen over time, degrade or be impossible
for future removal (if you ever need it). In short, the additional few cents
per nut and bolt is excellent peace of mind down the road. For the rest of
you well meaning lads.....I recommend "Screw loose" by CRC.
Joe



"Adam" wrote in message
...
I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 -
floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4"
&
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam