Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
I was wondering if anyone has used the sound deadening foamrubber that
they sell in sheets of 1 in or 1/2 in to quiet the engine. I have a four winns I/O that is not to noisy, but most of the material has fallen off over the years. How much quieter would she be if I redid this. Are there any tricks to putting it in and where does it go for best results? any info would be great thanks |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() I have some play in the rudder of my 31 foot 1971 Seafarer sloop. I think it is a Tripp design, full keel. What I'm hoping to find out from someone in the group is - How is this rudder connected to the stainless shaft which connects to the tiller? Through-bolts in the shaft which are imbedded in the fiberglass?? or welded straps?? If so, how many and where? Has this happened to any one else? Any ideas for a fix?? Should I even worry about a little play in this connection? The rudder on this boat is mounted on a triangular fin which is just aft of the prop which shaft comes out of a little shelf in the back of the keel (if you can visualize that) Thanks for any ideas |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Laura and Brian,
If there is looseness between the rudder shank and the blade, yes. More about this down the page. If you are just feeling some backlash in the system, it is and indicator of problems, but the potential for problems is widely variable. I do not know the Seafarers well, but most boats of that period that I have had to do something about have had similar structures and problems. Worst Case First: Many boats of this period had a mild steel plate welded to the stainless rudder shank. The plan was that it could not corrode as it was embeded in the hightly filled polyester material that was the rudder core. Nice plan, sorry. With age and use the bond would fail and let water into the shank and down to the mentioned plate. The plate then corrodes and swells the rudder apart and finally it will fail near the weld to the shank. If the shank to blade junction is not the problem, there are other places to look: Many boats have a machined plug in the top of the shank that is secured with, taper pins, roll pins or deeply shunk flat head screws. Any of these can get loose and they can not be serviced with the rudder mounted. The rudder head is probably secured to the shank plug above with either a key and a radial fastener or a V notch and key with an axial fastener. The key version frequently get beat up and develops some play. This is not simple to fix as the complete assemble has to be removed and gotten to a sailboat friendly machine shop. The key ways can be re-cut and a key that fits them properly producted. I have never have to repair the V-notch version. Though I know none of this is good news. I hope it is enough information to keep you from loosing rudder control some fine day. Matt Colie A.Sloop "Bonne Ide'e" Lifelong Waterman, Licensed Mariner and Congenital Sailor Laura or Brian wrote: I have some play in the rudder of my 31 foot 1971 Seafarer sloop. I think it is a Tripp design, full keel. What I'm hoping to find out from someone in the group is - How is this rudder connected to the stainless shaft which connects to the tiller? Through-bolts in the shaft which are imbedded in the fiberglass?? or welded straps?? If so, how many and where? Has this happened to any one else? Any ideas for a fix?? Should I even worry about a little play in this connection? The rudder on this boat is mounted on a triangular fin which is just aft of the prop which shaft comes out of a little shelf in the back of the keel (if you can visualize that) Thanks for any ideas |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Bravo 3 rev sensitive "clicking" sound. | General | |||
Tin Sound | General | |||
sound proofing ? | General | |||
Screeching sound after starting engine | General | |||
Long Island Sound wave height question | General |