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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Has anybody built this boat? Do you reccomend any changes.
Considering the age of the plans, are there any materials other than 1/4" ply that would be lighter? I am interested in building two for my kids. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
My sons are building one of Stevenson's Amphora's now. This was a design
from 1973 or so. We substitute as needed to update. Epoxy resin now instead of two part glue then, etc. Try this link for more information: http://www.messing-about.com/ Greg Luckett "Parallax" wrote in message m... Has anybody built this boat? Do you reccomend any changes. Considering the age of the plans, are there any materials other than 1/4" ply that would be lighter? I am interested in building two for my kids. -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
I've built the Stevenson Projects MiniCup boat and have been quite happy
with it overall. You may want to check out the MiniCup FAQ at http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?o...y es&id_cat=9 or go to the http://www.byyb.org site and follow the links. There's also some information on my own website - http://www.floatingbear.ca/ My own opinion is that although you could build the boat out 1/8" ply you would have some loss of hull strength as well as having problems fastening such thin ply to the stringers. -- Andrew Butchart http://www.floatingbear.ca "Parallax" wrote in message m... Has anybody built this boat? Do you reccomend any changes. Considering the age of the plans, are there any materials other than 1/4" ply that would be lighter? I am interested in building two for my kids. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
"Andrew Butchart" wrote in message ...
I've built the Stevenson Projects MiniCup boat and have been quite happy with it overall. You may want to check out the MiniCup FAQ at http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?o...y es&id_cat=9 or go to the http://www.byyb.org site and follow the links. There's also some information on my own website - http://www.floatingbear.ca/ My own opinion is that although you could build the boat out 1/8" ply you would have some loss of hull strength as well as having problems fastening such thin ply to the stringers. -- Andrew Butchart http://www.floatingbear.ca "Parallax" wrote in message m... Has anybody built this boat? Do you reccomend any changes. Considering the age of the plans, are there any materials other than 1/4" ply that would be lighter? I am interested in building two for my kids. Thanks for the info. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message om...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... "Andrew Butchart" wrote in message ... I've built the Stevenson Projects MiniCup boat and have been quite happy with it overall. You may want to check out the MiniCup FAQ at http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?o...y es&id_cat=9 or go to the http://www.byyb.org site and follow the links. There's also some information on my own website - http://www.floatingbear.ca/ My own opinion is that although you could build the boat out 1/8" ply you would have some loss of hull strength as well as having problems fastening such thin ply to the stringers. -- Andrew Butchart http://www.floatingbear.ca "Parallax" wrote in message m... Has anybody built this boat? Do you reccomend any changes. Considering the age of the plans, are there any materials other than 1/4" ply that would be lighter? I am interested in building two for my kids. Thanks for the info. Day 1. Bought the wood, 10 pieces of 4' X 8' X 1/4" Luan underlayment (I am building 2). This stuff is very light and nicely finished. Several ppl told me to get Mahogany instead of Fir for the stringers, etc. The lumberyard had limited amounts of Fir but strongly suggested an Australian wood called Agathis which I got. This was more expensive than I thought. Before it got dark this evening, I managed to draw out on the wood the sides and centerboard box for 1, and the bow decking for it but did not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about cutting the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen similar stuff splinter (cutting doors). Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening. I am considering the sails now and although the plans call for visqueen, what about the reinforced plastic tarp material? Any ideas on sail material. The backyard yacht building site showed one with a different rig than the "latteen" style sail, it had a stayed mast. Anybody know anything about it? The plans call for the two Al poles that form the top and bottom of the sail to be the same diameter as the mast, why not make them a little smaller? Thanks, David OHara |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message om...
snip not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about cutting the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen similar stuff splinter (cutting doors). Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening. I use a circular saw with a plywood cutting blade and have few problems. Set the blade so that it just barely cuts through the wood and you shouldn't have any problems. FYI - I would suggest waiting to cut out the decks until you have the rest of the hull assembled, a few people (including me) have had problems with the pieces fitting at that point. Also, there is an extra measurement you want to do on your fore and aft bulkheads to make sure they match the side bulkheads at the correct location. A few people (including me) have had problems with that. Also, even though I used fir myself for my MiniCup, I have since switched to spruce which is much cheaper where I live and works almost as well. Good luck with the project. Andrew Butchart |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message om... snip not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about cutting the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen similar stuff splinter (cutting doors). Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening. I use a circular saw with a plywood cutting blade and have few problems. Set the blade so that it just barely cuts through the wood and you shouldn't have any problems. FYI - I would suggest waiting to cut out the decks until you have the rest of the hull assembled, a few people (including me) have had problems with the pieces fitting at that point. Also, there is an extra measurement you want to do on your fore and aft bulkheads to make sure they match the side bulkheads at the correct location. A few people (including me) have had problems with that. Also, even though I used fir myself for my MiniCup, I have since switched to spruce which is much cheaper where I live and works almost as well. Good luck with the project. Andrew Butchart Thanks for the advice as I had planned to cut out the decks tomorrow but will wait. Day 2. Finished drawing the decks and cockpit. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message om... snip not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about cutting the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen similar stuff splinter (cutting doors). Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening. I use a circular saw with a plywood cutting blade and have few problems. Set the blade so that it just barely cuts through the wood and you shouldn't have any problems. FYI - I would suggest waiting to cut out the decks until you have the rest of the hull assembled, a few people (including me) have had problems with the pieces fitting at that point. Also, there is an extra measurement you want to do on your fore and aft bulkheads to make sure they match the side bulkheads at the correct location. A few people (including me) have had problems with that. Also, even though I used fir myself for my MiniCup, I have since switched to spruce which is much cheaper where I live and works almost as well. Good luck with the project. Andrew Butchart Thanks for the advice as I had planned to cut out the decks tomorrow but will wait. Day 2. Finished drawing the decks and cockpit. Day 3. Drew the bulkheads and transoms I am only drawing one set of deck and bulk/transom drawings because I plan to use the first set as a template to draw the second (am making two boats). I did draw two sets of sides and cebterboard well sides. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message om...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message om... snip not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about cutting the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen similar stuff splinter (cutting doors). Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening. I use a circular saw with a plywood cutting blade and have few problems. Set the blade so that it just barely cuts through the wood and you shouldn't have any problems. FYI - I would suggest waiting to cut out the decks until you have the rest of the hull assembled, a few people (including me) have had problems with the pieces fitting at that point. Also, there is an extra measurement you want to do on your fore and aft bulkheads to make sure they match the side bulkheads at the correct location. A few people (including me) have had problems with that. Also, even though I used fir myself for my MiniCup, I have since switched to spruce which is much cheaper where I live and works almost as well. Good luck with the project. Andrew Butchart Thanks for the advice as I had planned to cut out the decks tomorrow but will wait. Day 2. Finished drawing the decks and cockpit. Day 3. Drew the bulkheads and transoms I am only drawing one set of deck and bulk/transom drawings because I plan to use the first set as a template to draw the second (am making two boats). I did draw two sets of sides and cebterboard well sides. Fri: Just made the joiner piece for the hull bottom. Couldnt find a batten long enough to make the curve so first calculated the radii of curvature and tried to draw the curves using a pen tied on a long string. Apparently too much stretch in the string. Found a piece of long thin stock at work and used it to draw the curve. Cut two of them out (two boats) on a bandsaw and finished them on a table sander. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message om... snip not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about cutting the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen similar stuff splinter (cutting doors). Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening. I use a circular saw with a plywood cutting blade and have few problems. Set the blade so that it just barely cuts through the wood and you shouldn't have any problems. FYI - I would suggest waiting to cut out the decks until you have the rest of the hull assembled, a few people (including me) have had problems with the pieces fitting at that point. Also, there is an extra measurement you want to do on your fore and aft bulkheads to make sure they match the side bulkheads at the correct location. A few people (including me) have had problems with that. Also, even though I used fir myself for my MiniCup, I have since switched to spruce which is much cheaper where I live and works almost as well. Good luck with the project. Andrew Butchart Thanks for the advice as I had planned to cut out the decks tomorrow but will wait. Day 2. Finished drawing the decks and cockpit. Day 3. Drew the bulkheads and transoms I am only drawing one set of deck and bulk/transom drawings because I plan to use the first set as a template to draw the second (am making two boats). I did draw two sets of sides and cebterboard well sides. Fri: Just made the joiner piece for the hull bottom. Couldnt find a batten long enough to make the curve so first calculated the radii of curvature and tried to draw the curves using a pen tied on a long string. Apparently too much stretch in the string. Found a piece of long thin stock at work and used it to draw the curve. Cut two of them out (two boats) on a bandsaw and finished them on a table sander. Fri. evening: Cut out most of the pieces from the luan. This project will def. take longer than I thought. It is surprising how little time I have to work on it. (3 kids and running a small business, maybe I was unrealistic). It is going well anyway. Got the bottoms glued and screwed to the joiners. How did ppl do things like this before power screwdrivers, wow! |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Just a tip. Anything that can be cut or left a little big and will not
be a problem shaping later, should be left as so. If you make all the edges finish and tight, you will end up having to knock it down more than the plan calls for later after turning and working around the boat. I always leave ends long, edges unfinished etc, wait till you are ready for finish, before you finish. Impatience and the will to see something look like a beautiful boat will only cause anguish later. I always tell folks, "yes, I am builing your boat, but you don't want to see her now". Wait till she looks like a boat! Scotty from SmallBoats.com |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
The poly glues are very good and they are water activated. make sure that
you have a decent fit though as the foamed glue is not very strong. Brian |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
By the way, you are making good progress. Keep it up.
Brian |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
"Brian Combs" wrote in message ...
By the way, you are making good progress. Keep it up. Brian Brian, Thanks. I know very little about woodworking, all my past fabrication experience has been with metal instrumentation with tiny watchlike parts with very close tolerances so working with wood is a new experience. I find that the parts do not fit as well as I like. Will the joints be smoothed at the end and filled? There are gaps where edges do not exactly meet etc. This seems unavoidable because it is almost impossible to get measurements better than 1/16 in wood and probably no better than 1/8" (ok, make it 1/4" for me). So far, I am pleased but maybe I just have low expectations for my own woodworking. I expected to get some work done today but was sidetracked by Easter and family. David |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... "Brian Combs" wrote in message ... By the way, you are making good progress. Keep it up. Brian Brian, Thanks. I know very little about woodworking, all my past fabrication experience has been with metal instrumentation with tiny watchlike parts with very close tolerances so working with wood is a new experience. I find that the parts do not fit as well as I like. Will the joints be smoothed at the end and filled? There are gaps where edges do not exactly meet etc. This seems unavoidable because it is almost impossible to get measurements better than 1/16 in wood and probably no better than 1/8" (ok, make it 1/4" for me). So far, I am pleased but maybe I just have low expectations for my own woodworking. I expected to get some work done today but was sidetracked by Easter and family. David Got the stringers glued and screwed to the bulkheads today and to the cockpit sides (mostly) before running out of screws. I am a little worried because the curvature of the bulkheads seems more than the curvature of the hull botom but I imagine strap clamps will cause the hull bottom to bend some. I feel as if I have bathing in this glue. BookieB: I appreciate hearing about your experience too. This the first thing I have ever really built from wood so I am really learning as I go. I finally got the fwd and aft bulkheads and cockpit sides glued to their stringers, cut notches in the ends of the bulkheads, etc. I hope I got the stringers oriented correctly, if not, the sabre saw will do the job. After coating my hands with this glue (after two days and every kind of solvent I can find, it still will not come off without taking off skin although it is wearing off), I have decided to go slower. A less frantic pace will lead to fewer errors and a nicer job. I spent some time using the surform tool on the bulkhead stringers to make things really smooth and even. My wife says she is impressed although she may just be humoring me and wondering if I have gone nuts. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... "Brian Combs" wrote in message ... By the way, you are making good progress. Keep it up. Brian Brian, Thanks. I know very little about woodworking, all my past fabrication experience has been with metal instrumentation with tiny watchlike parts with very close tolerances so working with wood is a new experience. I find that the parts do not fit as well as I like. Will the joints be smoothed at the end and filled? There are gaps where edges do not exactly meet etc. This seems unavoidable because it is almost impossible to get measurements better than 1/16 in wood and probably no better than 1/8" (ok, make it 1/4" for me). So far, I am pleased but maybe I just have low expectations for my own woodworking. I expected to get some work done today but was sidetracked by Easter and family. David Got the stringers glued and screwed to the bulkheads today and to the cockpit sides (mostly) before running out of screws. I am a little worried because the curvature of the bulkheads seems more than the curvature of the hull botom but I imagine strap clamps will cause the hull bottom to bend some. I feel as if I have bathing in this glue. OK, I did screw up. Just admiring my work when I noticed that I made three left cockpit bulkheads and only one right one. Not too much of a problem as I do have he material to make the correct one. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
remember that in working with wood it is often possible to fill, patch, and
fake a great finish. While a perfect fit would be nice many (most?) of us are not able to accomplish that (and with some of the new glues the perfect fit is not desirable) save your sawdust--mix with epoxy and fill as needed. seams that are glassed can take a lot of less than perfect fit and seams that have a fillet . . . . now Mr. Sawdust in his book on setting up the Dewalt RAS talks about getting tolerances of 1/128th of an inch. That is lost on me as I have trouble seeing a 32nd on the rule and a 64th I just can't even see. give yourself a break and enjoy tolerances that a real person can sometimes do. Brian |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
"Brian Combs" wrote in message ...
remember that in working with wood it is often possible to fill, patch, and fake a great finish. While a perfect fit would be nice many (most?) of us are not able to accomplish that (and with some of the new glues the perfect fit is not desirable) save your sawdust--mix with epoxy and fill as needed. seams that are glassed can take a lot of less than perfect fit and seams that have a fillet . . . . now Mr. Sawdust in his book on setting up the Dewalt RAS talks about getting tolerances of 1/128th of an inch. That is lost on me as I have trouble seeing a 32nd on the rule and a 64th I just can't even see. give yourself a break and enjoy tolerances that a real person can sometimes do. Brian Brian: I appreciate that perspective because I have been wondering about the correct philosophy of wooden boatbuilding. Although I strive for accuracy, it is unattainable for a person of little woodworking skills like me. So, do I remake parts that dont quite fit or do I make them fit and then "make do" by covering with epoxy putty in the end? Being somewhat pressed for time and being impatient, I know I will simply "make do". However, one of my intentions with this project was to determine if I had what it takes to possibly make a larger boat later. Last night, I attached the aft bulkheads to the cockpit sides. Although I thought I had measured the cockpit sides correctly at 10.5 inches, mine came out at 10.25" and it looks as if they should be maybe 10.75" high. I guess I will make some sort of shim. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Parallax ) writes:
I appreciate that perspective because I have been wondering about the correct philosophy of wooden boatbuilding. Although I strive for accuracy, it is unattainable for a person of little woodworking skills like me. So, do I remake parts that dont quite fit or do I make them fit and then "make do" by covering with epoxy putty in the end? Being somewhat pressed for time and being impatient, I know I will simply "make do". However, one of my intentions with this project was to determine if I had what it takes to possibly make a larger boat later. when making my first boat, the plywood Dogskiff on my website, I bent the plywood around the central frame and held the ends in place with string and tape while I measured for the transom and took the framing angles with a carpenter's bevel. The pieces were then cut to the exact angle. It may be a cheap boat but I couldn't get a fingernail between the plywood and a frame at any point. Close fits and bedding (putting some kind of goo between the wooden pieces) can make a boat last much longer. People have criticised my practice of using low cost materials but the boats are still in regular use. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Parallax ) writes:
... I used the 1" #8 screws instead of the 3/4" ones because I wanted more holding power. They did go all the way through the stringers. They arent a work of art, but I think they are ok. I wouldn't do this on the hull below the waterline. Screws should only go 3/4 of the way into the last piece. When in doubt put them closer together. However if you are using screws and glue the screws are not that important. They clamp the pieces togehter until the glue sets. I've removed the screws and had the glue hold fine. BTW when I have used oversize screws in a pinch I've ground down the protruding points with a grinding wheel on an electric drill. Its too easy to grab hold of a boat somewhere and scratch a finger or palm on one of those points. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Parallax ) writes:
Tonight, got one centerboard box made, ran out of material (3" wide material) for second. Decided not to enclose it before sealing and painting it. Strange that the instructions do not specify painting the inside before enclosing it. On the one daggerboard trunk that I've made I gave the inside surfaces two coats of polyester resin for abraision resistance, just the inside exposed surface, leaving the gluing surfaces uncoated. To help the polyester adhere to the plywood the first coat was put on uncatalysed and allowed to soak in over night before the second catalysed coat was put on. Then the inside surfaces were given two coats of polyurethane liquid plastic for extra waterproofing. This was a winter project so had the luxury of lots of time to allow things to cure. It was also a lower cost alternative to coating the inside with epoxy resin. I reserved the more expensive epoxy to gluing the daggerboard to the boat and sealing the slot with a couple additional coats. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(William R. Watt) wrote in message ... Parallax ) writes: Tonight, got one centerboard box made, ran out of material (3" wide material) for second. Decided not to enclose it before sealing and painting it. Strange that the instructions do not specify painting the inside before enclosing it. On the one daggerboard trunk that I've made I gave the inside surfaces two coats of polyester resin for abraision resistance, just the inside exposed surface, leaving the gluing surfaces uncoated. To help the polyester adhere to the plywood the first coat was put on uncatalysed and allowed to soak in over night before the second catalysed coat was put on. Then the inside surfaces were given two coats of polyurethane liquid plastic for extra waterproofing. This was a winter project so had the luxury of lots of time to allow things to cure. It was also a lower cost alternative to coating the inside with epoxy resin. I reserved the more expensive epoxy to gluing the daggerboard to the boat and sealing the slot with a couple additional coats. Over the weekend, made centerboard boxes and installed them, Bow frames and installed, Tapered bow but the plywood split on one and required repair. Installed bow gussets. Bow gussets were a problem as it is hard to determine whta is correct angle. Directions say 45 degrees which seems too large. Am now ready for installing sides. I used epoxy to glue centerboard box and bow frame. Things are not really fitting right but I make mods as required and patch with thickened epoxy I have run into a MAJOR problem when attaching the sides. On the left side, it almost fits well although I havent fastened the bow. On the right side, it is a disaster. I somehow managed to fasten it so it goes below the bottom stringer so there is no way it can possibly fit at the bow. The left side can be made to fit the bow, but the right side will be left with about a 1" gap at the top tapering toward the rear. Furthermore, there is no way the top stringer can attach to this side piece but will simply sit atop it. This could be fixed with fibreglass tape in the end but that isnt very elegant. I suspect I have to remove the right side, cutting the glued joint with the saber saw. \ I have decided not to do ANY more work on boat #2 until I solve this problem on #1, otherwise I will simply repeat my mistakes. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(William R. Watt) wrote in message ... Parallax ) writes: Tonight, got one centerboard box made, ran out of material (3" wide material) for second. Decided not to enclose it before sealing and painting it. Strange that the instructions do not specify painting the inside before enclosing it. On the one daggerboard trunk that I've made I gave the inside surfaces two coats of polyester resin for abraision resistance, just the inside exposed surface, leaving the gluing surfaces uncoated. To help the polyester adhere to the plywood the first coat was put on uncatalysed and allowed to soak in over night before the second catalysed coat was put on. Then the inside surfaces were given two coats of polyurethane liquid plastic for extra waterproofing. This was a winter project so had the luxury of lots of time to allow things to cure. It was also a lower cost alternative to coating the inside with epoxy resin. I reserved the more expensive epoxy to gluing the daggerboard to the boat and sealing the slot with a couple additional coats. Over the weekend, made centerboard boxes and installed them, Bow frames and installed, Tapered bow but the plywood split on one and required repair. Installed bow gussets. Bow gussets were a problem as it is hard to determine whta is correct angle. Directions say 45 degrees which seems too large. Am now ready for installing sides. I used epoxy to glue centerboard box and bow frame. Things are not really fitting right but I make mods as required and patch with thickened epoxy Got the right side off again but even the left side does not really fit right at the bow. If I try to get it's top edge within reasonable distance of the bow end of the bow frame, say within 3/4" of being the same height, then it misses the bottom stringer about 3' back adjacent to the mast hole. Options include: 1. Reduce the front height of the bow frame thus tapering the bow downward just a little more, say 3/4". This will involve adding depth to the top bow frame stringer. 2. Install the sides as best I can along the stringers aft of the bow but make a thicker deck stringer for the bow. This can be done by gluing a tapered piece to the deck stringer. The ply will not come all the way up to the height of the bow frame at the bow but the space will be covered by the thicker stringer. Epoxy putty will cover the error. 3. Use a thicker bottom stringer (a stringer thickener) near the mast hole but I dont think this will solve the whole problem. 4. Forcing the bottom adjacent to the mast hole up might allow the stringer to be covered by the side. I am not sure what this will do to the bottom shape. Not sure how to do this but I will try the following: Use a strap clamp around the mast/centerboard box passing over the outsides of the bottom stringers on either side and around the bottom. Tighten, observe hull shape, tighten more, etc. Put in screws thru side to hold it. MAYBE the strap clamp can then be pulled out from between the side and the bottom stringer. 5. Perhaps a combo of 1,2,3 above. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(William R. Watt) wrote in message ... Parallax ) writes: Tonight, got one centerboard box made, ran out of material (3" wide material) for second. Decided not to enclose it before sealing and painting it. Strange that the instructions do not specify painting the inside before enclosing it. On the one daggerboard trunk that I've made I gave the inside surfaces two coats of polyester resin for abraision resistance, just the inside exposed surface, leaving the gluing surfaces uncoated. To help the polyester adhere to the plywood the first coat was put on uncatalysed and allowed to soak in over night before the second catalysed coat was put on. Then the inside surfaces were given two coats of polyurethane liquid plastic for extra waterproofing. This was a winter project so had the luxury of lots of time to allow things to cure. It was also a lower cost alternative to coating the inside with epoxy resin. I reserved the more expensive epoxy to gluing the daggerboard to the boat and sealing the slot with a couple additional coats. Over the weekend, made centerboard boxes and installed them, Bow frames and installed, Tapered bow but the plywood split on one and required repair. Installed bow gussets. Bow gussets were a problem as it is hard to determine whta is correct angle. Directions say 45 degrees which seems too large. Am now ready for installing sides. I used epoxy to glue centerboard box and bow frame. Things are not really fitting right but I make mods as required and patch with thickened epoxy Strap clamp does work but does distort the bottom just a little. I may need anothe clamp nearer the bow. I may also still need a little thicker stringer at the bow. BTW, "Gorilla Glue" does work for flat pieces but I was easily able to separate the sides from the stringers (well, not easily, but at least possible) so I will use epoxy for any parts under tension. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
lesson learned.
usual practice is to do a dry fit befroe gluing up. its one reason for using screws, they can be removed and reinserted. so you fit the pieces together, sand protruding edges, then take them apart, apply glue, and put them back together again. I just make a plywood backrest for my 4 year old Loonie one sheeter. Cut out and fit, installed dry and tried out on dry land, adjusted, then refit, before gluing up and painting. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(William R. Watt) wrote in message ... lesson learned. snip OK, here are my choices: 1. Taper the bow center frame more so its front end more nearly matches the height of the sides at the bow point, or, 2. Add more height to the stringers along the top of the sides near the bow by gluing a very long wedge shaped piece to the stringer. Suggestions? The stringers shouldn't bridge a gap where you can't get the side panels to meet the bottom - the panels need to be in contact, or very close to it, and the stringer needs to fill the angle between the two. Building up the stringer to bridge the gap sounds weak and dificult to seal effectively. I'd suggest slowing down a bit - put aside half an hour to check that everything is now symetrical and level. Check that the boat is level and evenly supported all round, then sight down the centre frame, and measure from a central point on the daggerboard case to the edge of the bottom panel on each side - checking measurements are near enough the same each side, everything is straight, etc etc. You can fix any problems you find now, but when you have the side panels attached all the way to the bow, that's about that (without major surgery). I had to bow out the top edge of each side panel fairly severely to get the front of the side panel to turn up enought to meet the forward end of the bow frame. This meant cutting in a fairly sharp bevel into the side of the bottom stringers - far more than the normal 7deg. There was a fair amount of sweatin' and cursin' before I got a good fit. Do a test fit with half the number of screws before going near the glue bottle. When you're happy, release, glue up, then rescrew. Good luck, bookieb |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(bookieb) wrote in message om...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (William R. Watt) wrote in message ... lesson learned. snip OK, here are my choices: 1. Taper the bow center frame more so its front end more nearly matches the height of the sides at the bow point, or, 2. Add more height to the stringers along the top of the sides near the bow by gluing a very long wedge shaped piece to the stringer. Suggestions? The stringers shouldn't bridge a gap where you can't get the side panels to meet the bottom - the panels need to be in contact, or very close to it, and the stringer needs to fill the angle between the two. Building up the stringer to bridge the gap sounds weak and dificult to seal effectively. I'd suggest slowing down a bit - put aside half an hour to check that everything is now symetrical and level. Check that the boat is level and evenly supported all round, then sight down the centre frame, and measure from a central point on the daggerboard case to the edge of the bottom panel on each side - checking measurements are near enough the same each side, everything is straight, etc etc. You can fix any problems you find now, but when you have the side panels attached all the way to the bow, that's about that (without major surgery). I had to bow out the top edge of each side panel fairly severely to get the front of the side panel to turn up enought to meet the forward end of the bow frame. This meant cutting in a fairly sharp bevel into the side of the bottom stringers - far more than the normal 7deg. There was a fair amount of sweatin' and cursin' before I got a good fit. Do a test fit with half the number of screws before going near the glue bottle. When you're happy, release, glue up, then rescrew. Good luck, bookieb Used BookieB advice. Got things to fit better but had to cut a radical angle on bottom stringer, probably 20 degrees. Still had to reduce height of bow frame by 1/4". Managed to get sides mostly glued. Am using epoxy that is very old and it seems to set up very fast even with very little hardener. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (William R. Watt) wrote in message ... lesson learned. snip OK, here are my choices: 1. Taper the bow center frame more so its front end more nearly matches the height of the sides at the bow point, or, 2. Add more height to the stringers along the top of the sides near the bow by gluing a very long wedge shaped piece to the stringer. Suggestions? The stringers shouldn't bridge a gap where you can't get the side panels to meet the bottom - the panels need to be in contact, or very close to it, and the stringer needs to fill the angle between the two. Building up the stringer to bridge the gap sounds weak and dificult to seal effectively. I'd suggest slowing down a bit - put aside half an hour to check that everything is now symetrical and level. Check that the boat is level and evenly supported all round, then sight down the centre frame, and measure from a central point on the daggerboard case to the edge of the bottom panel on each side - checking measurements are near enough the same each side, everything is straight, etc etc. You can fix any problems you find now, but when you have the side panels attached all the way to the bow, that's about that (without major surgery). I had to bow out the top edge of each side panel fairly severely to get the front of the side panel to turn up enought to meet the forward end of the bow frame. This meant cutting in a fairly sharp bevel into the side of the bottom stringers - far more than the normal 7deg. There was a fair amount of sweatin' and cursin' before I got a good fit. Do a test fit with half the number of screws before going near the glue bottle. When you're happy, release, glue up, then rescrew. Good luck, bookieb Used BookieB advice. Got things to fit better but had to cut a radical angle on bottom stringer, probably 20 degrees. Still had to reduce height of bow frame by 1/4". Managed to get sides mostly glued. Am using epoxy that is very old and it seems to set up very fast even with very little hardener. Took 3 1/2 days off to go caving. This evening, managed to get the transom on. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (bookieb) wrote in message om... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (William R. Watt) wrote in message ... lesson learned. snip OK, here are my choices: 1. Taper the bow center frame more so its front end more nearly matches the height of the sides at the bow point, or, 2. Add more height to the stringers along the top of the sides near the bow by gluing a very long wedge shaped piece to the stringer. Suggestions? The stringers shouldn't bridge a gap where you can't get the side panels to meet the bottom - the panels need to be in contact, or very close to it, and the stringer needs to fill the angle between the two. Building up the stringer to bridge the gap sounds weak and dificult to seal effectively. I'd suggest slowing down a bit - put aside half an hour to check that everything is now symetrical and level. Check that the boat is level and evenly supported all round, then sight down the centre frame, and measure from a central point on the daggerboard case to the edge of the bottom panel on each side - checking measurements are near enough the same each side, everything is straight, etc etc. You can fix any problems you find now, but when you have the side panels attached all the way to the bow, that's about that (without major surgery). I had to bow out the top edge of each side panel fairly severely to get the front of the side panel to turn up enought to meet the forward end of the bow frame. This meant cutting in a fairly sharp bevel into the side of the bottom stringers - far more than the normal 7deg. There was a fair amount of sweatin' and cursin' before I got a good fit. Do a test fit with half the number of screws before going near the glue bottle. When you're happy, release, glue up, then rescrew. Good luck, bookieb Used BookieB advice. Got things to fit better but had to cut a radical angle on bottom stringer, probably 20 degrees. Still had to reduce height of bow frame by 1/4". Managed to get sides mostly glued. Am using epoxy that is very old and it seems to set up very fast even with very little hardener. Took 3 1/2 days off to go caving. This evening, managed to get the transom on. Only managed to do a little caulking today. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
"Parallax" wrote in message
om... big snip Only managed to do a little caulking today. I go through this with all my projects - sometimes they'll sit for more than a month - in fact there's a repair project in the living room that's been waiting for more than a year (built a boat in that time though g) -- Andrew Butchart http://www.floatingbear.ca |
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