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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
"Andrew Butchart" wrote in message . ..
"Parallax" wrote in message om... big snip Only managed to do a little caulking today. I go through this with all my projects - sometimes they'll sit for more than a month - in fact there's a repair project in the living room that's been waiting for more than a year (built a boat in that time though g) This morn, I pre-fastened the stringers along the top of the sides. I will have to wait till my son gets home from school to really fasten and glue it. My biggest mistake with this boat was that when I put together the cockpit frame, i managed to get it a little twisted and this has slightly twisted the entire boat. I believe I can deal with this. I hope that the next boat which I stopped when I fastened the cockpit frame will go better as I have learned a few lessons. I began this project as a test to see if I was psychologically suited to building a larger boat and I think I already have my answer. My innattention to detail is a real problem. Furhtermore, although I know better, my mind erroneously interprets detailed directions as "here is a suggested way to do it but you might be able to find a better easier way". Those who can pay attention to small details and follow directions have my admiration and envy. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Parallax ) writes:
... My biggest mistake with this boat was that when I put together the cockpit frame, i managed to get it a little twisted and this has slightly twisted the entire boat. I believe I can deal with this. sometimes the directions say to tie a piece of string from bow to transom along the centre line to keep the boat lined up. use of a carpenter's level and square also help keep everything level, plumb, and lined up. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
"Parallax" wrote in message
om... "Andrew Butchart" wrote in message . .. "Parallax" wrote in message om... big snip Only managed to do a little caulking today. I go through this with all my projects - sometimes they'll sit for more than a month - in fact there's a repair project in the living room that's been waiting for more than a year (built a boat in that time though g) This morn, I pre-fastened the stringers along the top of the sides. I will have to wait till my son gets home from school to really fasten and glue it. My biggest mistake with this boat was that when I put together the cockpit frame, i managed to get it a little twisted and this has slightly twisted the entire boat. I believe I can deal with this. I hope that the next boat which I stopped when I fastened the cockpit frame will go better as I have learned a few lessons. I began this project as a test to see if I was psychologically suited to building a larger boat and I think I already have my answer. My innattention to detail is a real problem. Furhtermore, although I know better, my mind erroneously interprets detailed directions as "here is a suggested way to do it but you might be able to find a better easier way". Those who can pay attention to small details and follow directions have my admiration and envy. One thing that I've noticed is that the Stevenson designs are very well documented for the amateur builder. Most designs just give you some drawings - often with bits left off - and you have to figure the rest out. Being able to "interpret" is a great help there. -- Andrew Butchart http://www.floatingbear.ca |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(AKF) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message Used BookieB advice. Got things to fit better but had to cut a radical angle on bottom stringer, probably 20 degrees. Still had to reduce height of bow frame by 1/4". Managed to get sides mostly glued. Am using epoxy that is very old and it seems to set up very fast even with very little hardener. With polyester you can vary the amont of catalyst to account for temp. or time of cure required. With epoxy you should use exactly the amount of hardener specified by the manufacurer. Mix only as much as you can use; as you say it cures quickly... the exception being if you spread it out thin when it can take a suprising amount of time. Therefore a little in a large pot will set more slowly than a small pot full, if you see what I mean. Use gloves and generally keep it off your skin; some people do react to it over time. Many yards keep a bucket of water for dumping the used pots in... well, it keeps them from smoking anyway! Adrian Did some filling with epoxy and installed the upper transom gusset. Am now ready to paint the interior tonight. Any thoughts on reinforcing joints with fibreglas tape? As for epoxy, I once ground out all the blisters, refilled them and faired and epoxy coated and then painted a badly blistered 23' boat. It was the most complicated thing I have ever done, more complicated than any of the physics courses I took. Epoxy is nice to work with, much better than the smelly regular fibreglas resin. My skin seems to have no problem with epoxy. My epoxy resin is 10 yrs old and left over from that project. An interesting product would be fibreglas tape, say 4" wide in a bag pre-impregnated with resin that would catalyze on exposure to water. It could be used by home boat builders or by boaters in an emergency. David This afternoon, I managed to get the inside of boat #1 painted. It is now ready for decking. Yesterday, I did the centerboard box for #2. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(AKF) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... Did some filling with epoxy and installed the upper transom gusset. Am now ready to paint the interior tonight. Any thoughts on reinforcing joints with fibreglas tape? Reinforcing with woven tape is a good idea. Fillet the angle first with epoxy filler; this avoids trying to force the tape into a sharp angle which it won't accept anyway. Work all the air out from under the tape; various rollers are available for this. As for epoxy, I once ground out all the blisters, refilled them and faired and epoxy coated and then painted a badly blistered 23' boat. It was the most complicated thing I have ever done, more complicated than any of the physics courses I took. Epoxy is nice to work with, much better than the smelly regular fibreglas resin. My skin seems to have no problem with epoxy. My epoxy resin is 10 yrs old and left over from that project. Well, if your epoxy is still working, go for it! DIY osmosis treatment is an impressive first project, respect due for trying it. What with that and your current project it seems you are really a closet boatbuilder, best carry on! BTW, regarding your woodworking skills; practice really does make perfect, and don't disregard the old fashioned hand operated plane. A low angle block plane with a sharp iron is still the most used tool in the boat joiners tool- kit. Check out books and articles on 'spiling' (spileing?), if you haven't already, for tips on how to get those awkward angles and curves onto the workpiece. The point about epoxy sensitization is that the effects of exposure seem to be cumulative. So, no problem for years, then... After the problem has started there appears to be no going back; I've heard of a yard owner (maybe on this group) who has to vacate his shop altogether when eoxy is being used. Strangely polyester with all it's known toxic and carcinogenic constituents and additives has little effect. Imagine the concentrations inside a chain locker, for instance. Yet workers spend hours inside such places glassing up, flowcoating etc. An interesting product would be fibreglas tape, say 4" wide in a bag pre-impregnated with resin that would catalyze on exposure to water. It could be used by home boat builders or by boaters in an emergency. David Pre-preg is a whole other subject, which I know nothing about! HTH, Adrian. A "Closet Boatbuilder", whodathunkit? I thought being a sailor with a caving problem was bad. Does the American Psychiatric Assocoation list this as just a disorder or a full blown mental illness? Might explain why I cant stop trying to improve on that folding dinghy I saw on the net. BTW, I didnt realize Andrew Buttchart's role in all this till I read the BYYB site. Thanks Andrew. How do I join the BYYB? Raining off and on so I cannot put the deck on #1 so I am working on parts for #2. Do I dare try painting with oil base paint on a rainy night? Might not dry properly but it is on the inside and I would like to get the deck on this weekend. I know that part of this project is guilt for paying somebody else to do work on my big boat (28' S2 sailboat). Have never paid anybody to work on my boat but the distance I would have to drive to work on her and never having right tools on hand made it seem like the right thing to do (a bad decision). |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(AKF) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... Did some filling with epoxy and installed the upper transom gusset. Am now ready to paint the interior tonight. Any thoughts on reinforcing joints with fibreglas tape? Reinforcing with woven tape is a good idea. Fillet the angle first with epoxy filler; this avoids trying to force the tape into a sharp angle which it won't accept anyway. Work all the air out from under the tape; various rollers are available for this. As for epoxy, I once ground out all the blisters, refilled them and faired and epoxy coated and then painted a badly blistered 23' boat. It was the most complicated thing I have ever done, more complicated than any of the physics courses I took. Epoxy is nice to work with, much better than the smelly regular fibreglas resin. My skin seems to have no problem with epoxy. My epoxy resin is 10 yrs old and left over from that project. Well, if your epoxy is still working, go for it! DIY osmosis treatment is an impressive first project, respect due for trying it. What with that and your current project it seems you are really a closet boatbuilder, best carry on! BTW, regarding your woodworking skills; practice really does make perfect, and don't disregard the old fashioned hand operated plane. A low angle block plane with a sharp iron is still the most used tool in the boat joiners tool- kit. Check out books and articles on 'spiling' (spileing?), if you haven't already, for tips on how to get those awkward angles and curves onto the workpiece. The point about epoxy sensitization is that the effects of exposure seem to be cumulative. So, no problem for years, then... After the problem has started there appears to be no going back; I've heard of a yard owner (maybe on this group) who has to vacate his shop altogether when eoxy is being used. Strangely polyester with all it's known toxic and carcinogenic constituents and additives has little effect. Imagine the concentrations inside a chain locker, for instance. Yet workers spend hours inside such places glassing up, flowcoating etc. An interesting product would be fibreglas tape, say 4" wide in a bag pre-impregnated with resin that would catalyze on exposure to water. It could be used by home boat builders or by boaters in an emergency. David Pre-preg is a whole other subject, which I know nothing about! HTH, Adrian. A "Closet Boatbuilder", whodathunkit? I thought being a sailor with a caving problem was bad. Does the American Psychiatric Assocoation list this as just a disorder or a full blown mental illness? Might explain why I cant stop trying to improve on that folding dinghy I saw on the net. BTW, I didnt realize Andrew Buttchart's role in all this till I read the BYYB site. Thanks Andrew. How do I join the BYYB? Raining off and on so I cannot put the deck on #1 so I am working on parts for #2. Do I dare try painting with oil base paint on a rainy night? Might not dry properly but it is on the inside and I would like to get the deck on this weekend. I know that part of this project is guilt for paying somebody else to do work on my big boat (28' S2 sailboat). Have never paid anybody to work on my boat but the distance I would have to drive to work on her and never having right tools on hand made it seem like the right thing to do (a bad decision). Solved my mast problem with #2, cut the mast hole and pushed a piece of 2"x4" cut to right dimensions down into a bed of glue at the bottom and screwed it in from the sides. Got the bow frame mounted and bow tapered to it. On #1, got the decks installed, however, didnt have enough packing peanuts for the bow so did not glue the bow deck on yet. I thought i had LOTS of packing peanuts from work but they only filled the transom. Had lots of problems with the bow deck getting it to bend enough. Used a strap clamp wrapped around the deck and hull to pull them together. Heard lots of creaks and pops, tightened the clamp, heard more, tightened more, screws pulled through the luan, I used more screws and tightened more, strap began to tear the luan so I put a board undetr the edge to spread the load and tightened more. Finally the luan simply tore in a ragged gash. I sorta expected this. I know the side stringers are waaaaay too low (this one was twisted cuz the cockpit frame was twisted) so I added strips of luan to the stringers to add height to the stringers. Will glass over the nasty looking joint. Got the rudder box sides cut for both boats. My impression is that in spite of my blind installation of the centerboard box, #2 is going better. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (AKF) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... Did some filling with epoxy and installed the upper transom gusset. Am now ready to paint the interior tonight. Any thoughts on reinforcing joints with fibreglas tape? Reinforcing with woven tape is a good idea. Fillet the angle first with epoxy filler; this avoids trying to force the tape into a sharp angle which it won't accept anyway. Work all the air out from under the tape; various rollers are available for this. As for epoxy, I once ground out all the blisters, refilled them and faired and epoxy coated and then painted a badly blistered 23' boat. It was the most complicated thing I have ever done, more complicated than any of the physics courses I took. Epoxy is nice to work with, much better than the smelly regular fibreglas resin. My skin seems to have no problem with epoxy. My epoxy resin is 10 yrs old and left over from that project. Well, if your epoxy is still working, go for it! DIY osmosis treatment is an impressive first project, respect due for trying it. What with that and your current project it seems you are really a closet boatbuilder, best carry on! BTW, regarding your woodworking skills; practice really does make perfect, and don't disregard the old fashioned hand operated plane. A low angle block plane with a sharp iron is still the most used tool in the boat joiners tool- kit. Check out books and articles on 'spiling' (spileing?), if you haven't already, for tips on how to get those awkward angles and curves onto the workpiece. The point about epoxy sensitization is that the effects of exposure seem to be cumulative. So, no problem for years, then... After the problem has started there appears to be no going back; I've heard of a yard owner (maybe on this group) who has to vacate his shop altogether when eoxy is being used. Strangely polyester with all it's known toxic and carcinogenic constituents and additives has little effect. Imagine the concentrations inside a chain locker, for instance. Yet workers spend hours inside such places glassing up, flowcoating etc. An interesting product would be fibreglas tape, say 4" wide in a bag pre-impregnated with resin that would catalyze on exposure to water. It could be used by home boat builders or by boaters in an emergency. David Pre-preg is a whole other subject, which I know nothing about! HTH, Adrian. A "Closet Boatbuilder", whodathunkit? I thought being a sailor with a caving problem was bad. Does the American Psychiatric Assocoation list this as just a disorder or a full blown mental illness? Might explain why I cant stop trying to improve on that folding dinghy I saw on the net. BTW, I didnt realize Andrew Buttchart's role in all this till I read the BYYB site. Thanks Andrew. How do I join the BYYB? Raining off and on so I cannot put the deck on #1 so I am working on parts for #2. Do I dare try painting with oil base paint on a rainy night? Might not dry properly but it is on the inside and I would like to get the deck on this weekend. I know that part of this project is guilt for paying somebody else to do work on my big boat (28' S2 sailboat). Have never paid anybody to work on my boat but the distance I would have to drive to work on her and never having right tools on hand made it seem like the right thing to do (a bad decision). Solved my mast problem with #2, cut the mast hole and pushed a piece of 2"x4" cut to right dimensions down into a bed of glue at the bottom and screwed it in from the sides. Got the bow frame mounted and bow tapered to it. On #1, got the decks installed, however, didnt have enough packing peanuts for the bow so did not glue the bow deck on yet. I thought i had LOTS of packing peanuts from work but they only filled the transom. Had lots of problems with the bow deck getting it to bend enough. Used a strap clamp wrapped around the deck and hull to pull them together. Heard lots of creaks and pops, tightened the clamp, heard more, tightened more, screws pulled through the luan, I used more screws and tightened more, strap began to tear the luan so I put a board undetr the edge to spread the load and tightened more. Finally the luan simply tore in a ragged gash. I sorta expected this. I know the side stringers are waaaaay too low (this one was twisted cuz the cockpit frame was twisted) so I added strips of luan to the stringers to add height to the stringers. Will glass over the nasty looking joint. Got the rudder box sides cut for both boats. My impression is that in spite of my blind installation of the centerboard box, #2 is going better. After getting new glasses so I wouldnt have to try to sail using underwater currents instead of wind, I managed to get the bow deck on #1. It isnt pretty and the luan is seriously cracking but I plan to glass over those. I need serious amounts of epoxy filler. I got bow gussets on #1. I put together two rudder boxes. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Parallax ) writes:
After getting new glasses so I wouldnt have to try to sail using underwater currents instead of wind, I managed to get the bow deck on #1. It isnt pretty and the luan is seriously cracking but I plan to glass over those. I need serious amounts of epoxy filler. I got bow gussets on #1. I put together two rudder boxes. Let's hope you are getting better at boats than newsgroup articles. Do you know how to delete what's been written before? :) -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
A "Closet Boatbuilder", whodathunkit? I thought being a sailor with a caving problem was bad. Does the American Psychiatric Assocoation list this as just a disorder or a full blown mental illness? Might explain why I cant stop trying to improve on that folding dinghy I saw on the net. BTW, I didnt realize Andrew Buttchart's role in all this till I read the BYYB site. Thanks Andrew. How do I join the BYYB? Raining off and on so I cannot put the deck on #1 so I am working on parts for #2. Do I dare try painting with oil base paint on a rainy night? Might not dry properly but it is on the inside and I would like to get the deck on this weekend. I know that part of this project is guilt for paying somebody else to do work on my big boat (28' S2 sailboat). Have never paid anybody to work on my boat but the distance I would have to drive to work on her and never having right tools on hand made it seem like the right thing to do (a bad decision). Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... A "Closet Boatbuilder", whodathunkit? I thought being a sailor with a caving problem was bad. Does the American Psychiatric Assocoation list this as just a disorder or a full blown mental illness? Might explain why I cant stop trying to improve on that folding dinghy I saw on the net. BTW, I didnt realize Andrew Buttchart's role in all this till I read the BYYB site. Thanks Andrew. How do I join the BYYB? Raining off and on so I cannot put the deck on #1 so I am working on parts for #2. Do I dare try painting with oil base paint on a rainy night? Might not dry properly but it is on the inside and I would like to get the deck on this weekend. I know that part of this project is guilt for paying somebody else to do work on my big boat (28' S2 sailboat). Have never paid anybody to work on my boat but the distance I would have to drive to work on her and never having right tools on hand made it seem like the right thing to do (a bad decision). Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart Andrew: Unfortunately, that link tries to take me through Outlook Express and that does not work for me. A simple e-mail address would be better if it is available. David |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... A "Closet Boatbuilder", whodathunkit? I thought being a sailor with a caving problem was bad. Does the American Psychiatric Assocoation list this as just a disorder or a full blown mental illness? Might explain why I cant stop trying to improve on that folding dinghy I saw on the net. BTW, I didnt realize Andrew Buttchart's role in all this till I read the BYYB site. Thanks Andrew. How do I join the BYYB? Raining off and on so I cannot put the deck on #1 so I am working on parts for #2. Do I dare try painting with oil base paint on a rainy night? Might not dry properly but it is on the inside and I would like to get the deck on this weekend. I know that part of this project is guilt for paying somebody else to do work on my big boat (28' S2 sailboat). Have never paid anybody to work on my boat but the distance I would have to drive to work on her and never having right tools on hand made it seem like the right thing to do (a bad decision). Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart Sorry William Watt, I am a computer illiterate physicist. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart Andrew: Unfortunately, that link tries to take me through Outlook Express and that does not work for me. A simple e-mail address would be better if it is available. David You can contact the secretary at however one of the main benefits of the BYYB is it's online web forums which you should be able to get to by opening your web browser to http://www.byyb.org Andrew Butchart |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart Andrew: Unfortunately, that link tries to take me through Outlook Express and that does not work for me. A simple e-mail address would be better if it is available. David You can contact the secretary at however one of the main benefits of the BYYB is it's online web forums which you should be able to get to by opening your web browser to http://www.byyb.org Andrew Butchart Got the centerboards and rudders cut out. Faired the edges (chines? never been certain what were chines)of #1 with surform, looks ok. Applied fibreglas tape to some edges. Considering lessening the length of daggerboard for shoal draft, will wait till I try the standard length. |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart Andrew: Unfortunately, that link tries to take me through Outlook Express and that does not work for me. A simple e-mail address would be better if it is available. David You can contact the secretary at however one of the main benefits of the BYYB is it's online web forums which you should be able to get to by opening your web browser to http://www.byyb.org Andrew Butchart Got the centerboards and rudders cut out. Faired the edges (chines? never been certain what were chines)of #1 with surform, looks ok. Applied fibreglas tape to some edges. Considering lessening the length of daggerboard for shoal draft, will wait till I try the standard length. As the plans say, getting the aluminum mast is difficult. I tried the local Metal Supermarkets, plans say 16' of 2-2.375" .065 wall Al tubing. All they could get was 2" .125 wall thickness. Considered using it but it would flop around in the big mast hole so found a place on internet selling 2.25" .065 wall in 16' length for $109, other two pieces for the lateen rig will be 12' 2" .o65 wall for $95 each for a total of $299 for each boat......WOW. No idea what shipping will cost. Any ideas anyone? Should I use the 2" .125 wall from Metal Supermarkets (essentially free since they owe me money)? |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Parallax ) writes:
As the plans say, getting the aluminum mast is difficult. I tried the local Metal Supermarkets, plans say 16' of 2-2.375" .065 wall Al tubing. All they could get was 2" .125 wall thickness. Considered using it but it would flop around in the big mast hole so found a place on internet selling 2.25" .065 wall in 16' length for $109, other two pieces for the lateen rig will be 12' 2" .o65 wall for $95 each for a total of $299 for each boat......WOW. No idea what shipping will cost. Any ideas anyone? Should I use the 2" .125 wall from Metal Supermarkets (essentially free since they owe me money)? depends on what you are doing for sails. there will be some difference in mast bend which is usually taken into consideration in the cut of the sail. I would use the free material and if not satisfied replace with the other next year. I doubt it would make much difference to the pleasure and enjoyment of the boats the first year or two. The extra thickness of the walls certainly removes any concern about strength. A bit of extra weight aloft should also not matter at this stage. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
As the plans say, getting the aluminum mast is difficult. I tried the
local Metal Supermarkets, plans say 16' of 2-2.375" .065 wall Al tubing. All they could get was 2" .125 wall thickness. Considered using it but it would flop around in the big mast hole so found a place on internet selling 2.25" .065 wall in 16' length for $109, other two pieces for the lateen rig will be 12' 2" .o65 wall for $95 each for a total of $299 for each boat......WOW. No idea what shipping will cost. Any ideas anyone? Should I use the 2" .125 wall from Metal Supermarkets (essentially free since they owe me money)? Hi, just did a few numbers (everything in decimal inches/ sq. / cu. as appropriate), and assuming the same density of aluminium in each, just to compare the tubes.: 1.56 oz./cu. in. is just an encyclopedia value for the density of aluminium (2700Kg/cu. M). Based on a 16" length. Recomended tubing: Diameter 2.375 Outside Radius 1.1875 Outside Area 4.430136515 Wall Thickness 0.065 Inside Radius 1.1225 Inside Area 3.958426378 C/S Area 0.471710137 Volume of 192" 90.56834629 1.56oz/cu. In. 141.2866202 Pounds 8.830413763 Metals Supermarket tubing: Diameter 2 Outside Radius 1 Outside Area 3.141592654 Wall Thickness 0.125 Inside Radius 0.875 Inside Area 2.405281875 C/S Area 0.736310778 Volume of 192" 141.3716694 1.56oz/cu. In. 220.5398043 Pounds 13.78373777 Someone might check that over - I'm a metric kid, and these ancient mariner inches, rods, bushels etc. confuse me no end. Alternatively, I may have just made a hames of the numbers. Tubing you're suggesting is 55% heavier than the suggested tubing. It'll also be up pretty high -a 5metre length of this forms the upper spar of the lateen rig, and it's held up pretty high at the aft end. Someone more clued in than me could tell you how the difference in radius and wall thickness would affect strength and stiffness (stiffness increasing in proportion to square of radius or somthing?). Generally, the worst place for more weight is up high. However... ....the building notes are pretty slack when it comes to specifying tubing for the masts. You're still within the 2"-2.375" range per the plans. They suggest everything from irrigation piping to car exhaust sections. They also say that if the tubing is too flexible, it can be stiffened with a baton of wood running along the line of stress (fore-and-aft in most of the tubes), so there's probably a fair margin of safety in the measurments. As usual, it's up to you. I'd hate to say it looks Ok, then have the rig come down on your head in the first stiff breeze you go out in. If you you do use the smaller tubing, just shim the mast hole, but make the shims removable - stick em' in with a few blobs of silicone on the back so that they'll stay where they are, but can easily be pried off if required. Seems you've still got a fair bit of finishing, filling and painting to do before you need the masts anyway, so I'd keep looking round for a bit, rather than blast ahead when you could get better stuff. Regards, bookieb. |
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