No. I cast the bulb years ago. Everything is ready to cast the fin except
my intestinal fortitude. :-) The fin is a lot more complicated and I have
this recurring nightmare that I am going to get something slightly out of
alignment and then have to sail through life slightly catawampus. But then
I have been accused of that by the neighbors already. :-)

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
Glenn-
I recollect that you cast your ballast keel years ago, so will this be set
in some kind of bog between the lead keel and the hull's (wood epoxy &
glass) keel?
Seems to me to be a very good idea to be putting such plumbing, if it can
be
made to work, in a place where it can be gotten to, if need be. I was
beginning to worry a lot about pipes actually cast into a lead keel.

Getting back to the original post- maybe if there were troughs cast (or
machined) into the top of the lead casting, pipes for heat transfer could
be
set in them.

A few thoughts from the barnyard engineer,
Jim


"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:4p2Qf.492510$0l5.375670@dukeread06...

"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...
Glenn,
Are you planning to us this as an evaporator?
Matt Colie

No. It will be the condenser. The evaporator goes in the refrigerator.
The keel will be cold enough already. :-)

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
No. I cast the bulb years ago. Everything is ready to cast the fin except
my intestinal fortitude. :-) The fin is a lot more complicated and I have
this recurring nightmare that I am going to get something slightly out of
alignment and then have to sail through life slightly catawampus. But then
I have been accused of that by the neighbors already. :-)


Don't worry about it. You will do a far better job than most
boatbuilder. Walk thru any boat yard and with bare ey,
you'll be able to see the keels on many boats are off kilter.

Even the great J-24 has to have it's keel faired to be
symmetrical and remounted to be vertical, centered, and
aligned, for the boat to not sail catty-wompus.

Most people don't ever notice ....unless there's another
boat of the same class sailing alongside, outpointing them.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

I was planning to use pipe cast into the keel to cool the engine.!
{A Sabb 22hp}. The Keel cooler that came with the engine is 10' long
5/8 tubing My keel will be a long rectangle. Aprox. 10' x 15"x 15"
.. Glenn do you plan to use some type of flux on the tubing , Before
casting the lead ? And what type of wire do plan to use , To hold the
tubing in place Thanks CW

That is a WHOLE different creature. With refrigeration you are trying to
dump a few hundred BTUs an hour. With engine cooling you are dumping a few
hundred BTUs a MINUTE. Lead is not the greatest heat conductor so you will
need a lot more surface area than a bare tube condenser. It will be hard to
bury that much and still keep the lead structurally sound.

With my small diameter tube I am not to worried about the bond but I will
sand blast the whole bolt frame/condenser assembly and paint the tubing with
an acid flux formulated for tinning copper pots. I found that the
copper/nickel wets out much better with it than regular acid solder flux.

I wired the tubes in place with .032 316L stainless wire. Not ideal but I
end up with a lot of 6' lengths every time I change from 316 to mild steel
wire on my MIG welder so I figure to put it to some use.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Hess cutter 56" wrote in message
oups.com...
I was planning to use pipe cast into the keel to cool the engine.!
{A Sabb 22hp}. The Keel cooler that came with the engine is 10' long
5/8 tubing My keel will be a long rectangle. Aprox. 10' x 15"x 15"
. Glenn do you plan to use some type of flux on the tubing , Before
casting the lead ? And what type of wire do plan to use , To hold the
tubing in place Thanks CW

Thanks Glenn That makes sense ! CW

Glenn, Your in the keel cooler will work fine, it should also work on
the hard if that side of the keel is not in direct sunlight all day.
Don't forget that these compressors without fan cooling depend only
on super-cooled refrigerant as the main source of compressor heat
removal, so if the compressors are located in a tight area supplemental
cooling is required especially in tropical climates. Frigoboat has now
added a small heat sink to compressors connected to their keel cooler
compressors but I don't think it is large enough to do any good in
the tropics.

Dick

Thanks Richard. I feel a lot more comfortable knowing you pass on the idea.
I am worried about compressor cooling too. I have two BD50s mounted on an
aluminum skid at the bottom of a locker. That is a mighty enclosed space.
The control units have those dinky little fans that come with the
compressors but I believe I am going to add a duct fan to draw air up from
floor level, blow it over the compressors and exhaust it under the galley
cabinets. Keep my toes warm while I am cooking. :-).

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

wrote in message
oups.com...
Glenn, Your in the keel cooler will work fine, it should also work on
the hard if that side of the keel is not in direct sunlight all day.
Don't forget that these compressors without fan cooling depend only
on super-cooled refrigerant as the main source of compressor heat
removal, so if the compressors are located in a tight area supplemental
cooling is required especially in tropical climates. Frigoboat has now
added a small heat sink to compressors connected to their keel cooler
compressors but I don't think it is large enough to do any good in
the tropics.

Dick

BD Module selection

Danfoss offers a series of special electronic modules for their 12 volt
BD35 BD50 compressor to address differant installation and operating
problems. There are two different modules to hopefully address the
radio noise problem, A soft start module for the BD50, An AC/DC model
to eliminate the battery charger when connected to shore power and
Danfoss's automatic speed control model. Unfortunately they don't
sell one model that has all of these functions. For more information on
this see the current post on my forum at http://www.kollmann-marine.com

Glenn, I would recommend the automatic speed control module described
by Danfoss as Adaptive Energy Optimization module (AEO). Here are
some additional recommendations:
· These units are so quite I would add a green 12 volt LED to the
module's unused fan terminals small + and F.
· All these modules have a chip inside for troubleshooting if a 12
volt low amp LED is connected to module terminals small + and D. A red
LED is recommended here as the only time it will be on is when there is
a problem.
· If you need to add a supplemental cooling fan I would control it
with a inexpensive temperature Snap Disc Control switch available from
WW Granger. I have used there model 2E246, fan turns on at 120 degrees
and off at 110 degrees the objective is to keep the compressors below
130 degrees F if possable, cost $7.

Oops! Acid flux depends on being washed off after soldering. Might this be
a problem?

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:mUiQf.497330$0l5.326643@dukeread06...

snip

With my small diameter tube I am not to worried about the bond but I will
sand blast the whole bolt frame/condenser assembly and paint the tubing
with an acid flux formulated for tinning copper pots. I found that the
copper/nickel wets out much better with it than regular acid solder flux.

Not really. Because there is so much mass the lead will take over 3 hours
to start solidifying. The flux should float to the surface and be washed and
ground away in the post casting operations.
--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"derbyrm" wrote in message
news:V9HQf.854379$xm3.37448@attbi_s21...
Oops! Acid flux depends on being washed off after soldering. Might this
be a problem?

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:mUiQf.497330$0l5.326643@dukeread06...

snip

With my small diameter tube I am not to worried about the bond but I will
sand blast the whole bolt frame/condenser assembly and paint the tubing
with an acid flux formulated for tinning copper pots. I found that the
copper/nickel wets out much better with it than regular acid solder flux.