Good points. Sometimes, a thinner mix is handy. Like when a boat is turned
over and you'd like to let epoxy seep into the nooks and crannies in the
seam (assuming the inside is already filleted and taped.) On my Tolman, I
used a milled-glass fiber mix, lots of milled glass, plus a bit of silica as
my backside fill.

Brian D


"mislav" wrote in message
...
...That extra step is the use of epoxy 'tack welds' in between the
stitches. They in effect replace the stitches prior to doing any fillet
or glass work prior to the stitches being removed, and then the stitches
can be removed at your leisure with no risk to the boat.

That's the tabbing technique I refered to in my other post.

Other than what Brian suggested I might add that I used slightly thinner
paste for tabbing (thinner than mayo) so that it penetrate the seams. I
taped the outside of the seams with masking taped to prevent the mayo from
pouring out, but that didn't proved to be necessary. I did have quite
tight fit though. I was also worried that such a thin epoxy would pour
into the wire holes and glue the wires, but they all came out easily. I
left the wires in the extreme angles of bow and stern and pull them out
after the final filleting. It all went much easier than I expected.