"Brian D" wrote in message
. ..
That's completely fine too and you'll likely discover your own route to
success. I'm just saying that what I do does work well and you can try it
if you want ,..or not. It's all fun!

Have fun,
Brian


That's about the smartest thing I've heard said... (big grin!) Either way
will work, you just have to decide which way works best... for you.

Ed

Use plastic cable ties, that's what I did. Leave them in and fillet
over them. Works fine, no hassel with removing copper wire. I can't
imagine a reason not to do that.

Ed.

Check out my stitch and glue project:

http://www.angelfire.com/ultra/edaskew/peregrine.html

Good article. I'd tune what he said about removing squeeze-through epoxy
and sanding a bit. A little tape on the back side (masking or duct) will
prevent the squeeze-through, and removing it is easiest with a SurForm. The
short-handled Surform with the short curved cheese-grater blade is the one
that I prefer. For sanding, I agree ...80-grit for first sanding, but I
prefer a random orbital sander to a dual-action. Just my preferences...

Brian D



"boatbuilder.org" wrote in
message ...

Go to http://www.boatbuilder.org/mudpeep.htm. It will cover everything
you need to know about a small stitch and glue boat. The stitching and
removing is covered on the second page.
---Joel---

www.boatbuilder.org
www.devlinboat.com


--
boatbuilder.org

Good points. Sometimes, a thinner mix is handy. Like when a boat is turned
over and you'd like to let epoxy seep into the nooks and crannies in the
seam (assuming the inside is already filleted and taped.) On my Tolman, I
used a milled-glass fiber mix, lots of milled glass, plus a bit of silica as
my backside fill.

Brian D


"mislav" wrote in message
...
...That extra step is the use of epoxy 'tack welds' in between the
stitches. They in effect replace the stitches prior to doing any fillet
or glass work prior to the stitches being removed, and then the stitches
can be removed at your leisure with no risk to the boat.

That's the tabbing technique I refered to in my other post.

Other than what Brian suggested I might add that I used slightly thinner
paste for tabbing (thinner than mayo) so that it penetrate the seams. I
taped the outside of the seams with masking taped to prevent the mayo from
pouring out, but that didn't proved to be necessary. I did have quite
tight fit though. I was also worried that such a thin epoxy would pour
into the wire holes and glue the wires, but they all came out easily. I
left the wires in the extreme angles of bow and stern and pull them out
after the final filleting. It all went much easier than I expected.

I've heard that too and it should work fine. It depends partly on how much
adjusting you need to do and how large the boat is. The boat has to be
squared and level in all directions before gluing.

Brian


"Marc Reeves" wrote in message
. ..
I've seen several discussions about using a high quality duct tape
(gorilla glue brand duct tape) instead of the wires. This leaves no holes
and accomplishes the same job as the wires. yes/no/I'm an idiot for even
suggesting it.