What not to bring is a better idea. I was going to take spare injectors
until the guy who owned a diesel repair facility is St Thomas told me that a
spare would last 6 months at best before the tip would go bad. I didn't
take any and I never needed one. My advise is to go through the boat and
write down every piece of gear you have on the boat and pretend it is going
to break. Go shop for replacements. If you can easily find a replacement
here, you can find it in the Island chain. Budget Marine is generally
better stocked than West. If you can't, then start watching ebay for a
spare. A friend came through yesterday with a Simrad Autopilot problem. It
was going to cost him $750 for a circuit board. This is the kind of stuff
to look for when filling up hiddy holes. If you have a watermaker, then
take a spare membrane but not a rebuild kit for the pump.
Congradulations on you new boat...it has been a long road.

On rebuilding the Endeavour, I went to replace the headliner and found that
the moorons who built the boat, installed all the headliner wood in the
coach roof...stapled in the headliner and then mated the top to the hull.
All the wood is running over the top of the bulkheads and you couldn't take
down the headliner. I developed a technique to cut the wood out and will
post photos of the process at a later date on my website. After I get the
wood removed, I am going to reengineer the coach roof by adding stiffeners
and the Velcro the headliner in place in 2' sections. The roof of a 43 is
like a diving board.
Later
Bruce

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
What not to bring is a better idea. I was going to take spare injectors
until the guy who owned a diesel repair facility is St Thomas told me that
a
spare would last 6 months at best before the tip would go bad. I didn't
take any and I never needed one.

Now that is a bunch of BS.. I'm amazed that any mechanic would make such a
statement..

A new or rebuilt injector is filled with diesel or calibration fluid and
once you seal it up in oiled rags in a zip lock bag it will last for ever..
There is just no way it can deteriorate. The spare injector I carryed around
on my last boat (same engine as now) is in perfect condition after 15 years
in storage.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags." I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Steve" wrote in message
...

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
What not to bring is a better idea. I was going to take spare injectors
until the guy who owned a diesel repair facility is St Thomas told me
that
a
spare would last 6 months at best before the tip would go bad. I didn't
take any and I never needed one.

Now that is a bunch of BS.. I'm amazed that any mechanic would make such a
statement..

A new or rebuilt injector is filled with diesel or calibration fluid and
once you seal it up in oiled rags in a zip lock bag it will last for
ever..
There is just no way it can deteriorate. The spare injector I carryed
around
on my last boat (same engine as now) is in perfect condition after 15
years
in storage.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Combustion is the well known exothermic oxidation process.
Mineral oil on or off rags, does oxidize, but very slowly, specially
the oils with ani-oxidant additives.
But there *is* an oil that will easily spontaneously combust on shop
rags - linseed oil, specially raw linseed oil.

This is sometimes sprayed inside welded tube fuselages on homebuilds:
it is a clinging cover film to stop rust *and* it mops up oxygen too.

Brian Whatcott Altus

On Sat, 7 Feb 2004 09:45:14 -0600, "Karin Conover-Lewis"
wrote:

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags." I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags." I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

The oil that causes spontaneous combustion is vegetable type oil like
linseed oil in particular, not mineral or petroleum based oil.
Linseed oil is used in some varnishes and paints. In order to have
the spontaneous combustion you have to have air -that's why storing
them under water works. An air tight container also works. But
what's easier is to lay the rags flat to dry out because that way they
aren't close enough together to let heat build up.

This is a quote about boiled linseed oil from
http://yarchive.net/air/linseed_oil.html


"Boiled" is not what most people think; it should actually be called
"de-gassed" since the "boiling" is done by vacuum at room temperature.
It just takes the dissolved air out (the "boiling" is just the gases
expanding and breaking as bubbles), and makes the linseed oil less likely
to cause spontaneous combustion when oily rags are left wadded up.
(Remember "spontaneous combustion" warnings about oily rags? They never
managed to mention that linseed oil is the *only* oil you need to worry
about, and the only oil you were likely to generate oily rags with that
you were likely to store wadded up overnight for use the next day.)...
BTW, I swear by linseed oil as an anti-corrosive coating. I use it on
aluminum, *especially* externally where there have been white patches- I
sand off the white oxide and then coat with a thin layer of linseed oil
to occlude and passivate pinhole craters. It weathers away and need to
be reapplied, though you can get it off quickly with a little paint
remover when you need too.

Craig Wall




grandma Rosalie

Rosalie

Okay, someone else also mentioned linseed oil. The problem is that in all
the shops where I've been where oily rags were generated, none of them had
linseed oil on them except in oil painting. In every other case it was
either mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Yet we always had to put
them in the "Oily Rags Can," which as I recall was a can with water in it,
for pick-up by the shop-rag service. On the boat I use Penetrol quite a
bit -- which may very well have linseed oil in it -- and they specifically
warn about spontaneous combustion with it.

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Rosalie B." wrote in message
...
x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

This raises a question that I've had for a long time -- re "oily rags."
I've
always been taught they are a fire hazard, since they can spontaneously
combust. Yet one cannot help but have oily rags on a boat when doing any
kind of work around the engine, keeping tools from rusting, etc. So
what's
the best way to SAFELY store them? The lubberly method of keeping them in
buckets of water won't work for obvious reasons.

The oil that causes spontaneous combustion is vegetable type oil like
linseed oil in particular, not mineral or petroleum based oil.
Linseed oil is used in some varnishes and paints. In order to have
the spontaneous combustion you have to have air -that's why storing
them under water works. An air tight container also works. But
what's easier is to lay the rags flat to dry out because that way they
aren't close enough together to let heat build up.

This is a quote about boiled linseed oil from
http://yarchive.net/air/linseed_oil.html


"Boiled" is not what most people think; it should actually be called
"de-gassed" since the "boiling" is done by vacuum at room temperature.
It just takes the dissolved air out (the "boiling" is just the gases
expanding and breaking as bubbles), and makes the linseed oil less likely
to cause spontaneous combustion when oily rags are left wadded up.
(Remember "spontaneous combustion" warnings about oily rags? They never
managed to mention that linseed oil is the *only* oil you need to worry
about, and the only oil you were likely to generate oily rags with that
you were likely to store wadded up overnight for use the next day.)...
BTW, I swear by linseed oil as an anti-corrosive coating. I use it on
aluminum, *especially* externally where there have been white patches- I
sand off the white oxide and then coat with a thin layer of linseed oil
to occlude and passivate pinhole craters. It weathers away and need to
be reapplied, though you can get it off quickly with a little paint
remover when you need too.

Craig Wall




grandma Rosalie

x-no-archive:yes


"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Rosalie

Okay, someone else also mentioned linseed oil. The problem is that in all
the shops where I've been where oily rags were generated, none of them had
linseed oil on them except in oil painting. In every other case it was
either mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Yet we always had to put
them in the "Oily Rags Can," which as I recall was a can with water in it,
for pick-up by the shop-rag service. On the boat I use Penetrol quite a
bit -- which may very well have linseed oil in it -- and they specifically
warn about spontaneous combustion with it.

That's because of OSHA regulations rather than because it is actually
necessary. (I was an OSHA inspector for the last 14 years before I
retired.) And also because of CYA on the MSDSs. No one wants to go
out on a limb and say it isn't possible with petroleum based oils. At
least that's MHO.

In any case the oil has to BOTH be able to oxidize (i.e. air is
present) in an exothermic reaction which produces considerable heat,
AND the rag has to be scrunched up so that there's no way for the heat
to escape.

I'll have to look at the Penetrol can and see what it says. I'd be
surprised if it had linseed oil in it, because I thought it was mostly
synthetic.


grandma Rosalie

Interesting. So as long as I don't have linseed oil onboard, let rags dry
flat as much as practicable and generally just keep them stored in an
airtight container, I don't have anything to worry about?

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Rosalie B." wrote in message
...
x-no-archive:yes


"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Rosalie

Okay, someone else also mentioned linseed oil. The problem is that in all
the shops where I've been where oily rags were generated, none of them
had
linseed oil on them except in oil painting. In every other case it was
either mineral oil or other petroleum-based oils. Yet we always had to
put
them in the "Oily Rags Can," which as I recall was a can with water in
it,
for pick-up by the shop-rag service. On the boat I use Penetrol quite a
bit -- which may very well have linseed oil in it -- and they
specifically
warn about spontaneous combustion with it.

That's because of OSHA regulations rather than because it is actually
necessary. (I was an OSHA inspector for the last 14 years before I
retired.) And also because of CYA on the MSDSs. No one wants to go
out on a limb and say it isn't possible with petroleum based oils. At
least that's MHO.

In any case the oil has to BOTH be able to oxidize (i.e. air is
present) in an exothermic reaction which produces considerable heat,
AND the rag has to be scrunched up so that there's no way for the heat
to escape.

I'll have to look at the Penetrol can and see what it says. I'd be
surprised if it had linseed oil in it, because I thought it was mostly
synthetic.


grandma Rosalie

x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Interesting. So as long as I don't have linseed oil onboard, let rags dry
flat as much as practicable and generally just keep them stored in an
airtight container, I don't have anything to worry about?

IMHO yes - but if you do have a problem - don't sue me.g


grandma Rosalie

Oh, sure! NOW you say that. lol

--
Karin Conover-Lewis
Fair and Balanced since 1959
klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net


"Rosalie B." wrote in message
...
x-no-archive:yes

"Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote:

Interesting. So as long as I don't have linseed oil onboard, let rags dry
flat as much as practicable and generally just keep them stored in an
airtight container, I don't have anything to worry about?

IMHO yes - but if you do have a problem - don't sue me.g


grandma Rosalie