Backyard Renegade ) writes:

The problem is that inner layer. Like William said, it is like rods
and frequently has voids that run full length or nearly, hidden under
the skins. Many times these voids do not show up until you cut, sand,
or snap the piece putting it in. Anyway, the fact that the center is
harder wood, and frequently void filled, it makes the softer outer
skins prone to snapping, much like scoring a tile or piece of glass
then bending it...
Scotty

the voids are easy to find. you take the plywood into a dark room and run
a reading lamp over the surface while looking at the other side. any voids
show up where the light shines through the thin suface layer.

the voids are easy to fill. drill small holes though the face ply and pump
in clauk with a calking gun. I prefer to pump in PL Premium polyurethane
construction adhesive to fill the voids. You have to put a piece of tape
over the wood and drill through it to keep the goop from getting on the wood.

I've used the same drill-and-pump technique to repair a split plywood
daggerboard. Once the goop was pumped into the spit layers the board was
wrapped in plastic and weighed down flat overnight to cure. Still
using that daggerboard.
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(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...
Backyard Renegade ) writes:

The problem is that inner layer. Like William said, it is like rods
and frequently has voids that run full length or nearly, hidden under
the skins. Many times these voids do not show up until you cut, sand,
or snap the piece putting it in. Anyway, the fact that the center is
harder wood, and frequently void filled, it makes the softer outer
skins prone to snapping, much like scoring a tile or piece of glass
then bending it...
Scotty

the voids are easy to find. you take the plywood into a dark room and run
a reading lamp over the surface while looking at the other side. any voids
show up where the light shines through the thin suface layer.

the voids are easy to fill. drill small holes though the face ply and pump
in clauk with a calking gun. I prefer to pump in PL Premium polyurethane
construction adhesive to fill the voids. You have to put a piece of tape
over the wood and drill through it to keep the goop from getting on the wood.

I've used the same drill-and-pump technique to repair a split plywood
daggerboard. Once the goop was pumped into the spit layers the board was
wrapped in plastic and weighed down flat overnight to cure. Still
using that daggerboard.

Again I would suggest that this may be fine for you, with your
experience, but I still would not reccomend it to any first time
builder.
Scotty from SmallBoats.com, where you can see my little pieces of crap

On Mon, 19 Jan 2004 10:28:33 -0500, "jotis"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

Do you think it is possible to build an 8-foot skiff or dinghy using 1/8"
luan?

Yes! Of course! It may well sink.

This has been a very interesting little talk guys. But where is the OP
after 8 days?

Perhaps the boat was to be used for ....trolling?
************************************************** ** sorry
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Spike....Spike? Hello?

Backyard Renegade ) writes:

Again I would suggest that this may be fine for you, with your
experience, but I still would not reccomend it to any first time
builder.
Scotty from SmallBoats.com, where you can see my little pieces of crap


Its infinitely simpler than stripper, lapped strake, or plank on frame
techniques novices use after reading, say, Moore, Hill or Bheuler(?). I
can't imagine pumping goop as a challenge for novices at all. I dreamed it
up when building my first boat. When I posted it here other boatbuilders
reported filling voids in much the same way. Solving problems is one of
the fun things about building almost anything. I note in boatbuilding
books the authours can't resist describing the tools, jigs, and techniques
they dreamed up to solve problems.






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On 26 Jan 2004 16:30:21 GMT, (William R.
Watt) wrote:

Backyard Renegade ) writes:

The problem is that inner layer. Like William said, it is like rods
and frequently has voids that run full length or nearly, hidden under
the skins. Many times these voids do not show up until you cut, sand,
or snap the piece putting it in. Anyway, the fact that the center is
harder wood, and frequently void filled, it makes the softer outer
skins prone to snapping, much like scoring a tile or piece of glass
then bending it...
Scotty

the voids are easy to find. you take the plywood into a dark room and run
a reading lamp over the surface while looking at the other side. any voids
show up where the light shines through the thin suface layer.

the voids are easy to fill. drill small holes though the face ply and pump
in clauk with a calking gun. I prefer to pump in PL Premium polyurethane
construction adhesive to fill the voids. You have to put a piece of tape
over the wood and drill through it to keep the goop from getting on the wood.

I've used the same drill-and-pump technique to repair a split plywood
daggerboard. Once the goop was pumped into the spit layers the board was
wrapped in plastic and weighed down flat overnight to cure. Still
using that daggerboard.

Or......................one could just use adequate materials in the
first place.

P.C. Ford ) writes:

Or......................one could just use adequate materials in the
first place.

"adequate"? PC Ford is recommending the use of "adequate" materials?
What happend to "superior"?



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On 27 Jan 2004 16:26:23 GMT, (William R.
Watt) wrote:

P.C. Ford ) writes:

Or......................one could just use adequate materials in the
first place.

"adequate"? PC Ford is recommending the use of "adequate" materials?
What happend to "superior"?

Sorry. If I am not mistaken, I have never used the term superior for
the boat building materials I recommend. I've stated that using
standard marine building materials is much more rewarding. You
advocate using doorskins and other substandard trash materials.

(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...
Backyard Renegade ) writes:

Again I would suggest that this may be fine for you, with your
experience, but I still would not reccomend it to any first time
builder.
Scotty from SmallBoats.com, where you can see my little pieces of crap


Its infinitely simpler than stripper, lapped strake, or plank on frame
techniques novices use after reading, say, Moore, Hill or Bheuler(?). I
can't imagine pumping goop as a challenge for novices at all. I dreamed it
up when building my first boat. When I posted it here other boatbuilders
reported filling voids in much the same way. Solving problems is one of
the fun things about building almost anything. I note in boatbuilding
books the authours can't resist describing the tools, jigs, and techniques
they dreamed up to solve problems.

I can't even argue with you about this anymore, it is useless. I will
say it one last time, everyone who reads your posts here is not as
experienced or as lerned as you, and to so hardheadedly advocate luan
and polyester the way you do is just irresponsible. I myself do
reccomend these materials to several folks a year, but only after one
on one exchange and a good understanding of the questioners needs and
abilities. I have nothing against these materials when used by someone
who knows what they are, what they can and can't do, how to rapair
them, how to build the rest of the boat in such a manner as to
accomodate their weak characteristics..... etc... ugh...
Scotty from SmallBoats.com, peace dude.

Backyard Renegade ) writes:

I can't even argue with you about this anymore, it is useless. I will
say it one last time, everyone who reads your posts here is not as
experienced or as lerned as you, and to so hardheadedly advocate luan
and polyester the way you do is just irresponsible. I myself do
reccomend these materials to several folks a year, but only after one
on one exchange and a good understanding of the questioners needs and
abilities. I have nothing against these materials when used by someone
who knows what they are, what they can and can't do, how to rapair
them, how to build the rest of the boat in such a manner as to
accomodate their weak characteristics..... etc... ugh...
Scotty from SmallBoats.com, peace dude.

I've never written "don't use marine plywood or epoxy resin". I only write
objections when people write "only use marine plywood and epoxy". I'm not
writing any less responsibly than yourself with whom I happen to agree.
I had no experience when I did not use marine plywood or epoxy although I
had read a few books and read what people were writing in this newsgroup.
It's not rocket science, as you Yanks say.

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You can but you'll have to laminate both the inside and outside hull
with fiberglass cloth. ^ ounce weight minimum. Make sure it's exterior
grade too.

jotis wrote:

Do you think it is possible to build an 8-foot skiff or dinghy using 1/8"
luan?

Joseph