I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends
off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually
there is a roller installed through or on them.

Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to
build myself:

http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html

They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak.

Thanks!
Rob


To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying
up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for
a pulpit.

I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp
the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the
strips together.

Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring
in order to put the nav lights on it.

Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly
do you mean by "pulpit"?
Scotty





(orbital) wrote in message . com...
Hello,

I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit
for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help
me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Rob

Mine is made from strips of teak maybe 1" x 2" laminated and screwed
together, with the strips oriented vertically. If you have room, I highly
suggest making it big enough to hang two anchors from.

"orbital" wrote in message
om...
I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends
off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually
there is a roller installed through or on them.

Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to
build myself:

http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html

They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak.

Thanks!
Rob


To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying
up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for
a pulpit.

I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp
the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the
strips together.

Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring
in order to put the nav lights on it.

Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly
do you mean by "pulpit"?
Scotty





(orbital) wrote in message
. com...
Hello,

I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit
for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could
help
me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Rob

"orbital" wrote in message
om...
off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from.



Bare in mind that you many be paying the marina every month for those extra
'2-3 feet' ..

I have a 38 ft sail boat but pay for a 45ft slip because of the bow sprit
and outboard rudder.. For me, that is an extra $35/mo. But I don't have any
choice since my boat is designed with a bowsprit..

Steve

(orbital) wrote in message . com...
I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends
off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually
there is a roller installed through or on them.

Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to
build myself:

http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html

They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak.

Thanks!
Rob

Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining
sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley.
I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get
planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want
plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top
and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product
you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a
multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch
strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite
each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or
another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made
butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense.
Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the
clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so
use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and
ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar
clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at
least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part
faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many
as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good
thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If
you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may
make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly
will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either
steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer,
I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in
steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such
an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement
wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com


To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying
up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for
a pulpit.

I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp
the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the
strips together.

Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring
in order to put the nav lights on it.

Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly
do you mean by "pulpit"?
Scotty





(orbital) wrote in message . com...
Hello,

I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit
for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help
me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Rob

Scotty, Thanks!

This is exactly what I was looking for. This sounds relatively
straightforward. Even your ascii diagram of the opposing end grains
made sense. I assume from this point, I could cut the finished piece
as if it was a solid piece of wood to create any curves or shape I
want to add to the front of it.

Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you
mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from
dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a
technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs
per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep
into the strips should I drill for the pegs?

Also, I would like to put a channel down the length of it to
accomodate a pair of wires for a nav light. I was thinking I could
route a channel on the face of 2 strips before glueing them up. Would
this affect the strength greatly?

Thanks again for all the info! Good luck with your leaky wall!

Rob



Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining
sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley.
I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get
planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want
plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top
and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product
you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a
multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch
strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite
each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or
another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made
butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense.
Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the
clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so
use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and
ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar
clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at
least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part
faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many
as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good
thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If
you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may
make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly
will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either
steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer,
I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in
steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such
an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement
wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com


To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying
up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for
a pulpit.

I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp
the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the
strips together.

Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring
in order to put the nav lights on it.

Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly
do you mean by "pulpit"?
Scotty





(orbital) wrote in message . com...
Hello,

I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit
for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help
me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Rob

On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote:

Scotty, Thanks!

snip

Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you
mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from
dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a
technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs
per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep
into the strips should I drill for the pegs?


snip

Rob

snip

My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig
with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he
wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both
ends are for alignment.
In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top
edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak.
(If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill
the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.)

Mark E. Williams

Jumping in here ...

If you recall, Scotty was the guy suggesting pegs. He also suggested
using epoxy. So, I want to say a couple of things before people get too far
off track:

- The pegs are for alignment. You only need a couple per side of strip. If
the pulpit is long and the strips non-flat, then go with three so you can
get better alignment while gluing. Once glued, the pegs don't add much if
anything to the structure.

- If you're going to seal the pulpit up, and it's not hard if you use an
integral anchor roller that takes the anchor abuse instead of the pulpit
itself (see any commercial version), then epoxy is fine. If the wood is
going to be exposed and stay that way, then I'd consider using a different
solution (resorcinol glued teak? through-bolted teak? I don't know ..I'd
use epoxy as described).

Brian

--
My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass


"Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message
...
On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote:

Scotty, Thanks!

snip

Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you
mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from
dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a
technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs
per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep
into the strips should I drill for the pegs?


snip

Rob

snip

My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig
with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he
wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both
ends are for alignment.
In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top
edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak.
(If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill
the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.)

Mark E. Williams

"Brian D" wrote in message news:jSEEb.401321$Dw6.1249548@attbi_s02...
Jumping in here ...

If you recall, Scotty was the guy suggesting pegs. He also suggested
using epoxy. So, I want to say a couple of things before people get too far
off track:

- The pegs are for alignment. You only need a couple per side of strip. If
the pulpit is long and the strips non-flat, then go with three so you can
get better alignment while gluing. Once glued, the pegs don't add much if
anything to the structure.


This is correct and I do suggest a cheap dowling jig from Sears or
such, this will allow you to use line things up much easier but like
brian said, they are not there for structure. Use them sparingly as I
noted in an earlier post, to save time.
Scotty

I was planning on building a slot into the pulpit to accomodate a
roller. I may also mount a stainless plate on the bottom to protect
the bottom of the pulpit from the anchor being yanked up into it.

What is the issue with using epoxy if I do not seal the entire pulpit?
My intention was to most likely not seal it with urethane or epoxy,
but to keep it coated with teak oil.

Also, I have never heard of resorcinol before now. What is the
difference between this and epoxy for this type of use?

In terms of using or not using pegs, I guess I was concerned about the
pressure and weight of the anchor trying to pull the strips apart
vertically. I was thinking that screws or pegs would help keep the
pulpit together when these vertical forces are aplied unevenly to
particular strips making up the pulpit. Is just the glue up strong
enough to keep it all together?

Thanks!

Rob

If you recall, Scotty was the guy suggesting pegs. He also suggested
using epoxy. So, I want to say a couple of things before people get too far
off track:

- The pegs are for alignment. You only need a couple per side of strip. If
the pulpit is long and the strips non-flat, then go with three so you can
get better alignment while gluing. Once glued, the pegs don't add much if
anything to the structure.

- If you're going to seal the pulpit up, and it's not hard if you use an
integral anchor roller that takes the anchor abuse instead of the pulpit
itself (see any commercial version), then epoxy is fine. If the wood is
going to be exposed and stay that way, then I'd consider using a different
solution (resorcinol glued teak? through-bolted teak? I don't know ..I'd
use epoxy as described).

Brian

--
My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass


"Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message
...
On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote:

Scotty, Thanks!

snip

Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you
mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from
dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a
technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs
per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep
into the strips should I drill for the pegs?


snip

Rob

snip

My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig
with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he
wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both
ends are for alignment.
In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top
edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak.
(If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill
the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.)

Mark E. Williams

The issue with epoxy, as with any virtually waterproof coating, is that
moisture tends to migrate through the wood until it reaches the waterproof
barrier. This region tends (then) to carry more moisture and becomes a
possible rot risk.

If you are *not* going to seal it and keep it completely sealed, then I
would not use epoxy as your glue. Do a search on the web for resorcinol,
sold under the brand name of GluVit (among others), and see what you find.
The question I have is whether or not it bonds with teak well. Either way,
if not using epoxy, then I would also recommend mounting with hardware, not
gluing. You'll want structural support from gunnel to gunnel as a minimum
and then through-bolt with 316 stainless or silicon bronze or better. Make
it strong enough to stand on.

For making a strip-built pulpit without glue, then you'll have to build it
up strip by strip using countersunk boat screws. For these 'buried' screws,
use silicon bronze or better (see Jamestown Distributors online). Screws
should be offset back and forth as you go so they are not in alignment with
each other. This will distribute the load better. Left to my own devices,
I'd probably shoot resorcinol in there between the layers as I screw them
up, letting the screws be your clamp pressure. On the outside 2 strips,
countersink deeper then use a plug cutter to make plugs from your teak. You
can glue these in to hide the screw tops and then flush-cut with a Japanese
pull saw. When the whole stack is done, expect to at least router and sand.
May have to do some planing too, so start thicker and wider than your
intended final dimension. Use a low-angle block plane and keep it sharp.
The silica in teak takes the edge away quicker than with other woods. If
you're a clever guy and would like to do a fancy job, you can route with a
45-degree bit on the top corners of each strip of teak to dress it up a bit.
I know you can fill these grooves with black polysulfide to emulate a teak
deck, but I've never done it and suspect that it may be hard to do it
neatly. The grooves alone would look nice (make sure you clean glue out
nicely if you are using it.) When the pulpit is all done and right before
installing, then you can oil it in the traditional way ...soak it well where
it contacts the boat.

Brian

--
My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass


"orbital" wrote in message
om...
I was planning on building a slot into the pulpit to accomodate a
roller. I may also mount a stainless plate on the bottom to protect
the bottom of the pulpit from the anchor being yanked up into it.

What is the issue with using epoxy if I do not seal the entire pulpit?
My intention was to most likely not seal it with urethane or epoxy,
but to keep it coated with teak oil.

Also, I have never heard of resorcinol before now. What is the
difference between this and epoxy for this type of use?

In terms of using or not using pegs, I guess I was concerned about the
pressure and weight of the anchor trying to pull the strips apart
vertically. I was thinking that screws or pegs would help keep the
pulpit together when these vertical forces are aplied unevenly to
particular strips making up the pulpit. Is just the glue up strong
enough to keep it all together?

Thanks!

Rob

If you recall, Scotty was the guy suggesting pegs. He also suggested
using epoxy. So, I want to say a couple of things before people get too
far
off track:

- The pegs are for alignment. You only need a couple per side of strip.
If
the pulpit is long and the strips non-flat, then go with three so you
can
get better alignment while gluing. Once glued, the pegs don't add much
if
anything to the structure.

- If you're going to seal the pulpit up, and it's not hard if you use an
integral anchor roller that takes the anchor abuse instead of the pulpit
itself (see any commercial version), then epoxy is fine. If the wood is
going to be exposed and stay that way, then I'd consider using a
different
solution (resorcinol glued teak? through-bolted teak? I don't know
...I'd
use epoxy as described).

Brian

--
My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass


"Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message
...
On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote:

Scotty, Thanks!

snip

Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you
mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from
dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there
a
technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many
pegs
per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep
into the strips should I drill for the pegs?


snip

Rob

snip

My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig
with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he
wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both
ends are for alignment.
In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top
edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak.
(If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill
the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.)

Mark E. Williams