I, too, use it for all sorts of things, but aside from limited water
resistance, it creeps, so should not be used in applications where it
is loaded continuously.

I find that if you keep a West setup with pumps installed in a shallow
bucket and save your margarine containers, you can mix a one stroke
batch of epoxy almost as fast as you can use white or yellow glue.
You can customize the epoxy with filler, too.

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com

(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...
Brian Whatcott ) writes:

It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too,
but not for use below the water line.

shear strenth 3,750 psi. water resistent but not waterproof. pot life
indefinite. clean up with water before it sets.

shear strength of epoxy is 15,000n psi and its waterproof.

I use Tightbond II for interior cabinetry but prefer polyurethanes if
the wood will be finished bright. Squeeze out of Tightbond II
interferes with the color when you stain or varnish unless you really
sand it down well. Polyurethanes scrape off clean. In no case do I use
Tightbond outside the boat.

Everything else is epoxy. I use the West single lever pump and solicit
cups from all the neighbors. Large curd cottage cheese for fairing,
soft cream cheese for bonding and Jello pudding for detail. :-)

Jim Woodward wrote:
I, too, use it for all sorts of things, but aside from limited water
resistance, it creeps, so should not be used in applications where it
is loaded continuously.

I find that if you keep a West setup with pumps installed in a shallow
bucket and save your margarine containers, you can mix a one stroke
batch of epoxy almost as fast as you can use white or yellow glue.
You can customize the epoxy with filler, too.

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com

(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...

Brian Whatcott ) writes:


It claims to be the strongest wood glue - and water resistant too,
but not for use below the water line.

shear strenth 3,750 psi. water resistent but not waterproof. pot life
indefinite. clean up with water before it sets.

shear strength of epoxy is 15,000n psi and its waterproof.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glenn, you missed the Taco Bell Pecante cups when just a dab will do :-)

Tite Bond II is all I use for wood working around the house. I have
projects like bird houses that have survived outdoors, but I would never use
it on my boat. That is what Epoxy is for, IMHO.

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:FDTib.74972$sp2.58413@lakeread04...
I use Tightbond II for interior cabinetry but prefer polyurethanes if
the wood will be finished bright. Squeeze out of Tightbond II
interferes with the color when you stain or varnish unless you really
sand it down well. Polyurethanes scrape off clean. In no case do I use
Tightbond outside the boat.

Everything else is epoxy. I use the West single lever pump and solicit
cups from all the neighbors. Large curd cottage cheese for fairing,
soft cream cheese for bonding and Jello pudding for detail. :-)
....

On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 15:50:05 GMT, "Fred Williams"
wrote:


Tite Bond II is all I use for wood working around the house. I have
projects like bird houses that have survived outdoors, but I would never use
it on my boat. That is what Epoxy is for, IMHO.

If the interior job involves continuous load, original Titebond is
less prone to creep than Titebond II.


Rodney Myrvaagnes Opionated old geezer

Faith-based economics: It's deja voodoo all over again

I would like to add my two cents.
Last spring I used Luan to make hatch doors for my boat.
Biscuits were used and the panel boards were washed with acetone and glued
with Titebond ll and pipe clamps.
The doors were coated with Behr Tung oil finish fortified with UVI. Several
coat were applied inside my garage.
They were my pride and joy. Then in mid August the panels were showing
signs of separations. Part lines began to be very visible. I then replaced
the new hatch doors with the old one made with Teak plywood..
I do not know what happened. Maybe the Luan is not compatible with Titebond
ll.
Now that I learned my lesson I'll go back to using epoxy on my boat.

"Rodney Myrvaagnes" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 15:50:05 GMT, "Fred Williams"
wrote:


Tite Bond II is all I use for wood working around the house. I have
projects like bird houses that have survived outdoors, but I would never
use
it on my boat. That is what Epoxy is for, IMHO.

If the interior job involves continuous load, original Titebond is
less prone to creep than Titebond II.


Rodney Myrvaagnes Opionated old geezer

Faith-based economics: It's deja voodoo all over again

On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 01:24:54 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

I would like to add my two cents.
Last spring I used Luan to make hatch doors for my boat.
Biscuits were used and the panel boards were washed with acetone and glued
with Titebond ll and pipe clamps.
The doors were coated with Behr Tung oil finish fortified with UVI. Several
coat were applied inside my garage.
They were my pride and joy. Then in mid August the panels were showing
signs of separations. Part lines began to be very visible. I then replaced
the new hatch doors with the old one made with Teak plywood..
I do not know what happened. Maybe the Luan is not compatible with Titebond
ll.
Now that I learned my lesson I'll go back to using epoxy on my boat.

While I agree with your conclusion, I'm interested in the details of
your experience with Titebond II. Were your hatches cross-grain glued
at the ends? This will guarantee either failed joints or wood grain
splits. If it was a straight adhesive failure, that would be
interesting.

By the way, you could take the hatches, rip out the adhesive joints on
a table saw, and re-glue them with epoxy.

- Rick Tyler
--
"Ignorant voracity -- a wingless vulture -- can soar only into the
depths of ignominy." Patrick O'Brian

Two doors were made. Each measuring 16" high X 25" wide X +3/8" thick.
Each door were made with 4" wide X 25" long Luan board with the grain
running from left to right horizontally. Biscuits were used with Titebond
ll and pipe clamps. At the end of each door bread boards (grain running
vertically ) were glued with biscuits, Titebond ll and pipe clamps. Then,
after a few months, sanding was done and the finish was applied.
"Rick Tyler" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 01:24:54 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

I would like to add my two cents.
Last spring I used Luan to make hatch doors for my boat.
Biscuits were used and the panel boards were washed with acetone and
glued
with Titebond ll and pipe clamps.
The doors were coated with Behr Tung oil finish fortified with UVI.
Several
coat were applied inside my garage.
They were my pride and joy. Then in mid August the panels were showing
signs of separations. Part lines began to be very visible. I then
replaced
the new hatch doors with the old one made with Teak plywood..
I do not know what happened. Maybe the Luan is not compatible with
Titebond
ll.
Now that I learned my lesson I'll go back to using epoxy on my boat.

While I agree with your conclusion, I'm interested in the details of
your experience with Titebond II. Were your hatches cross-grain glued
at the ends? This will guarantee either failed joints or wood grain
splits. If it was a straight adhesive failure, that would be
interesting.

By the way, you could take the hatches, rip out the adhesive joints on
a table saw, and re-glue them with epoxy.

- Rick Tyler
--
"Ignorant voracity -- a wingless vulture -- can soar only into the
depths of ignominy." Patrick O'Brian

The thinness Piranha blade may have to wide of knerf. Now that the boat is
in the back yard. I may try to use a good scriber to separate the panels
and use epoxy. The biscuits will have to be cut off with a Japanese hand
saw.
"Rick Tyler" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 01:24:54 GMT, "Denis Marier"
wrote:

I would like to add my two cents.
Last spring I used Luan to make hatch doors for my boat.
Biscuits were used and the panel boards were washed with acetone and
glued
with Titebond ll and pipe clamps.
The doors were coated with Behr Tung oil finish fortified with UVI.
Several
coat were applied inside my garage.
They were my pride and joy. Then in mid August the panels were showing
signs of separations. Part lines began to be very visible. I then
replaced
the new hatch doors with the old one made with Teak plywood..
I do not know what happened. Maybe the Luan is not compatible with
Titebond
ll.
Now that I learned my lesson I'll go back to using epoxy on my boat.

While I agree with your conclusion, I'm interested in the details of
your experience with Titebond II. Were your hatches cross-grain glued
at the ends? This will guarantee either failed joints or wood grain
splits. If it was a straight adhesive failure, that would be
interesting.

By the way, you could take the hatches, rip out the adhesive joints on
a table saw, and re-glue them with epoxy.

- Rick Tyler
--
"Ignorant voracity -- a wingless vulture -- can soar only into the
depths of ignominy." Patrick O'Brian

Glenn Ashmore ) writes:

Everything else is epoxy. I use the West single lever pump and solicit
cups from all the neighbors. Large curd cottage cheese for fairing,
soft cream cheese for bonding and Jello pudding for detail. :-)

we have municipal recyling in Ottawa. we put our plastic containers in
platic bins and put them out for pickup on garbage day. so its a simple
matter of walking around the neigbourhood on garbage day looking in
people's plastic bins for plastic containers. I don't use epoxy but do
ocassionaly find need for discarded plastic containers.

Titebond is "aliphatic" glue, yellow carpenter's glue, not water
resistent. I don't know what Titebond II is but one of my home handyman
books says there is a water resistent variety of aliphatic glue available.
Maybe that's what Titebond II is.

The shear strength I posted earlier was for Titebond II from the Lee Valley
Tools glue guide. It says Titebond II is only good for 3 freeze thaw
cycles so I wouldn't use it on boats up here in Canada.

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network
homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
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Well I had to learn the hard way "It says Titebond II is only good for 3
freeze thaw".
Further more, the temperature variation like near freezing at night to +
20-30C during the day will eventually cause ungluing.
I have also use LePage exterior glue with similar results.

"William R. Watt" wrote in message
...
Glenn Ashmore ) writes:

Everything else is epoxy. I use the West single lever pump and solicit
cups from all the neighbors. Large curd cottage cheese for fairing,
soft cream cheese for bonding and Jello pudding for detail. :-)

we have municipal recyling in Ottawa. we put our plastic containers in
platic bins and put them out for pickup on garbage day. so its a simple
matter of walking around the neigbourhood on garbage day looking in
people's plastic bins for plastic containers. I don't use epoxy but do
ocassionaly find need for discarded plastic containers.

Titebond is "aliphatic" glue, yellow carpenter's glue, not water
resistent. I don't know what Titebond II is but one of my home handyman
books says there is a water resistent variety of aliphatic glue available.
Maybe that's what Titebond II is.

The shear strength I posted earlier was for Titebond II from the Lee
Valley
Tools glue guide. It says Titebond II is only good for 3 freeze thaw
cycles so I wouldn't use it on boats up here in Canada.

--
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community
network
homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned