Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Folks,
First a bit of background. I'm considering buying a 40' cruising catamaran. It's an "open bridgedeck" design - without a bridgedeck cabin. I want a bridgedeck cabin so I'd have to build the cabin. To make the cabin fit I'd have to raise the boom. I have 2 solutions - just reweld the gooseneck on 2' higher, and trim the bottom of the mainsail. This looses me sail area which I am loath to do. The other solution is to raise the mast 2' (which is easy to do 'cause it's just stepped on a deck beam). But then all the rigging wires become too short. So I'm looking for ideas to extend rigging wires. So far I have: - replace most of the wires (7 at least would have to be done, not a cheap proposition) - short lengths of rigging wire with swaged fittings at each end - reasonably cheap but lots more potential failure points - short lengths of multiple passes of spectra or similar high modulus line - probably cheapest and lightest, need some custom solid aluminum thimbles to handle the lines I'd appreciate any opinions. Thanks, -- Evan Gatehouse you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me ceilydh AT 3web dot net (fools the spammers) |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
If I was doing this for myself, I`d probably take a piece of stainless round
bar of a suitable diameter and machine the ends to suit the chain plate at the bottom and the bottom of the rigging screw at the top. Dunno how this would work on the forestay though- roller furling? Maybe best to replace the forestay only? Bob Evan Gatehouse wrote: :: Folks, :: :: First a bit of background. I'm considering buying a 40' cruising :: catamaran. It's an "open bridgedeck" design - without a bridgedeck :: cabin. I want a bridgedeck cabin so I'd have to build the cabin. :: :: To make the cabin fit I'd have to raise the boom. I have 2 :: solutions - just reweld the gooseneck on 2' higher, and trim the :: bottom of the mainsail. This looses me sail area which I am loath to :: do. :: :: The other solution is to raise the mast 2' (which is easy to do :: 'cause it's just stepped on a deck beam). But then all the rigging :: wires become too short. So I'm looking for ideas to extend rigging :: wires. So far I have: :: :: - replace most of the wires (7 at least would have to be done, not a :: cheap proposition) :: - short lengths of rigging wire with swaged fittings at each end - :: reasonably cheap but lots more potential failure points :: - short lengths of multiple passes of spectra or similar high :: modulus line - probably cheapest and lightest, need some custom :: solid aluminum thimbles to handle the lines :: :: I'd appreciate any opinions. Thanks, :: :: -- :: Evan Gatehouse :: :: you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me :: ceilydh AT 3web dot net :: (fools the spammers) |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Evan,
Synthetic rigging seems to be big with multihulls these days. Precourt in Canada http://www.precourt.ca/ makes deadeyes up to 30,000 lb. just for that purpose machined as chainplates, middle eyes and top thimbles. You could use the top thimble with a shackle to make the transistion to wire. You might even consider replacing all the rigging with Amsteel Blue. It works out a lot cheaper than wire and seems to be gaining a lot of acceptance with the high performance cat sailors. It is a little stronger than the same size wire and if the loads stay under 30% there is very little creep once the initial stretch is removed. What I want to know is how do you intend to raise the mast off that deck beam and what will it do to the RM? You are increasing the lever arm of the center of force and putting it up higher into stronger wind. That in combination with reducing the angle of the stays will increase the load on the stays. But maybe the wide base of a cat will minimize that. Evan Gatehouse wrote: Folks, First a bit of background. I'm considering buying a 40' cruising catamaran. It's an "open bridgedeck" design - without a bridgedeck cabin. I want a bridgedeck cabin so I'd have to build the cabin. To make the cabin fit I'd have to raise the boom. I have 2 solutions - just reweld the gooseneck on 2' higher, and trim the bottom of the mainsail. This looses me sail area which I am loath to do. The other solution is to raise the mast 2' (which is easy to do 'cause it's just stepped on a deck beam). But then all the rigging wires become too short. So I'm looking for ideas to extend rigging wires. So far I have: - replace most of the wires (7 at least would have to be done, not a cheap proposition) - short lengths of rigging wire with swaged fittings at each end - reasonably cheap but lots more potential failure points - short lengths of multiple passes of spectra or similar high modulus line - probably cheapest and lightest, need some custom solid aluminum thimbles to handle the lines I'd appreciate any opinions. Thanks, -- Evan Gatehouse you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me ceilydh AT 3web dot net (fools the spammers) -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() Glenn Ashmore wrote: SNIP What I want to know is how do you intend to raise the mast off that deck beam and what will it do to the RM? You are increasing the lever arm of the center of force and putting it up higher into stronger wind. That in combination with reducing the angle of the stays will increase the load on the stays. But maybe the wide base of a cat will minimize that. The added accommodation will substantially increase the weight of the boat, increasing the righting moment. Is the existing standing rigging up to the increased loads? |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Go back to the designer and ask the proper questions - there's lots of
aspects to this question besides rigging. What do you think you're gonna get here - design genius - from people who put 14 tanks on their boats? Multihulls have to be kept light. On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 14:47:14 GMT, Jim Conlin wrote: Glenn Ashmore wrote: SNIP What I want to know is how do you intend to raise the mast off that deck beam and what will it do to the RM? You are increasing the lever arm of the center of force and putting it up higher into stronger wind. That in combination with reducing the angle of the stays will increase the load on the stays. But maybe the wide base of a cat will minimize that. The added accommodation will substantially increase the weight of the boat, increasing the righting moment. Is the existing standing rigging up to the increased loads? |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Freddy says:
Go back to the designer and ask the proper questions - there's lots of aspects to this question besides rigging. True. And the designer will say "Replace the rigging with longer stuff". What do you think you're gonna get here - design genius That hurts..... from people who put 14 tanks on their boats? So will that. Multihulls have to be kept light. I'm not sure that "have" is the right word there. "Should" would be better, and even then some would disagree. It all depends on why you want a cat, and what it was designed for. Steve Stephen C. Baker - Yacht Designer http://members.aol.com/SailDesign/pr...cbweb/home.htm |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
I believe you will find that Evan has worked for some of the biggest
name yacht designers in the business so I expect he already has that figured out. He is just using the group as a sounding board the same way I often do. freddy wrote: Go back to the designer and ask the proper questions - there's lots of aspects to this question besides rigging. What do you think you're gonna get here - design genius - from people who put 14 tanks on their boats? Multihulls have to be kept light. On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 14:47:14 GMT, Jim Conlin wrote: Glenn Ashmore wrote: SNIP What I want to know is how do you intend to raise the mast off that deck beam and what will it do to the RM? You are increasing the lever arm of the center of force and putting it up higher into stronger wind. That in combination with reducing the angle of the stays will increase the load on the stays. But maybe the wide base of a cat will minimize that. The added accommodation will substantially increase the weight of the boat, increasing the righting moment. Is the existing standing rigging up to the increased loads? -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 15:23:48 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote: I believe you will find that Evan has worked for some of the biggest name yacht designers in the business so I expect he already has that figured out. He is just using the group as a sounding board the same way I often do. freddy wrote: Go back to the designer and ask the proper questions - there's lots of aspects to this question besides rigging..... The responses I have seen to Freddy's suggestion seem altogether collected. Perhaps better to remember that this anonymous poster also recommended arson as the winterizing recipe for a personal water vehicle, in order to help you summon the replies he deserves. Brian (certified genius) Whatcott |
#9
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 14:47:14 GMT, Jim Conlin
wrote something .......and in reply I say!: The added accommodation will substantially increase the weight of the boat, increasing the righting moment. Is the existing standing rigging up to the increased loads? If the guy intends to overcome the righting monent of a 40' cruising catamaran while sailing, then the occasional broken stay will be a minor excitement! G ************************************************** **************************************** Those who can, do. Those who can't, teach. The rest sit around and make snide comments. Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music Please remove ns from my header address to reply via email !! ") _/ ) ( ) _//- \__/ |
#10
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Glenn Ashmore" wrote Synthetic rigging seems to be big with multihulls these days. Precourt in Canada http://www.precourt.ca/ makes deadeyes up to 30,000 lb. just for that purpose machined as chainplates, middle eyes and top thimbles. yeah, that's the lanyard/deadeye's I would use. The stretch on short lengths would be o.k. You might even consider replacing all the rigging with Amsteel Blue. It Yeah, but Eric Precourt doesn't recommend using it with fixed rigs (which this boat has). Too much stretch compared to wire; it's o.k. with 3 stay cat rigs where the mast rotates and you want a little slack. What I want to know is how do you intend to raise the mast off that deck beam and what will it do to the RM? You are increasing the lever arm of the center of force and putting it up higher into stronger wind. That in combination with reducing the angle of the stays will increase the load on the stays. But maybe the wide base of a cat will minimize that. Well I'm only raising it 2' - I'd certainly do the calcs but as a percentage it isn't much. Extending it would be as simple as a little 2' aluminum pipe compression post with welded flanges on either end. Jim Conlin wrote: The added accommodation will substantially increase the weight of the boat, increasing the righting moment. Is the existing standing rigging up to the increased loads? Yes, it would increase the RM - but the overall boat + payload weight is still within the designer's maximum number. freddy said: Go back to the designer and ask the proper questions - there's lots of aspects to this question besides rigging. True - but I'm pretty capable of handling those ![]() particular aspect that was something I didn't have experience with. Ford Walton wrote: Lanyards and deadeyes" or solid metal extensions should work, but you could also cut 2 feet off of the top of the sail and add a short gaff or a really substantial headboard. I did think of just chopping 2' off the head of the sail after raising the boom (but I want to preserve sail area). Jim Woodward had a lot of good points especially the super turbuckle but I'll address this one: 6) If you decide on the second solution, "just reweld the gooseneck 2' higher", consult with the mast manufacturer. Many masts are made from heat treated alloys that shouldn't be welded after heat treat and there may be reinforcement inside the mast at the existing gooseneck. Almost all masts are 6061-T6 which is a heat treated alloy that loses strength after welding - but the existing gooseneck flanges are welded on and seem o.k. - so another weak area 2' higher probably isn't going to cause too much trouble. I will look into a drilled/tapped/bolted fitting. Has anybody ever seen a reinforcement inside the mast at a gooseneck? I've looked up a lot of mast tubes and seen a lot of mast drawings and never seen one on an aluminum mast. Once again thanks for all the constructive thoughts. They are apprecicated. -- Evan Gatehouse you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me ceilydh AT 3web dot net (fools the spammers) |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
??? about plug wires on Evinrude outboard | General | |||
Help with Hullmaster\Hughes 22' sailboat rigging | General | |||
Rigging knife question | General | |||
Hobie 16 rigging order, tension | General | |||
Rigging knife | General |