Man! Get a life! You been watching way too much "Junkyard Wars" and
"Monster Garage"! :-)

wrote in message ...
I like that idea!... I could weld barrels onto the axils and put paddles
on
them. That way I could just change the wheels and drive on in. On the
front I
could either run a chain to spin them from the rear or use them to stear.
Now
that I think on it more heck I've alwayse dreamed obout building a
car-boater
thing. That is drive up to the water (maybe pulling it on a trailor) put
the
boat in the water and drive onto it. strap on and use the car's wheels to
drive
a wheel rigged onto a prop. Could use a car-differential in reverse tied
to a
prop. That way even reverse would work, And whatever the gearing a
chain-sprocket mechanism could adapt it. hmmm why arent these things for
sale??? Hasent such a thing been done? Just saw the wheel-drive-on
cyllendars
used at the motor-vehicle-immisions testing system. Seemed they worked
pretty
well.
....

Differential brakes on the paddle wheels would allow "power
steering". I saw it done on a built up fishing scow. One brake
pedal for each wheel. No rudder, I think. Not with floating
barrel wheels, or drive on, it was just a side paddle wheeler
using a car differential. It made a lovely duck blind, with full
heat.

The chevvy engine might not like half a ton of thrust pushing on
the end of the crankshaft. Nor will the tranny tailshaft. A
thrust bearing is required, or a side paddle wheel rig. A
stuffing box would surround the prop shaft with a packing gland
compressed between the inboard end fitting nuts.

wrote:

I like that idea!... I could weld barrels onto the axils and put paddles on
them. That way I could just change the wheels and drive on in. On the front I
could either run a chain to spin them from the rear or use them to stear. Now
that I think on it more heck I've alwayse dreamed obout building a car-boater
thing. That is drive up to the water (maybe pulling it on a trailor) put the
boat in the water and drive onto it. strap on and use the car's wheels to drive
a wheel rigged onto a prop. Could use a car-differential in reverse tied to a
prop. That way even reverse would work, And whatever the gearing a
chain-sprocket mechanism could adapt it. hmmm why arent these things for
sale??? Hasent such a thing been done? Just saw the wheel-drive-on cyllendars
used at the motor-vehicle-immisions testing system. Seemed they worked pretty
well.

WasteNotWantNot wrote:






wrote:

Just got a 21' 73 sportcraft boat. Have a recked an 80 camaro w/ a good
267 (v8) and tranny. The boat is pretty rough and has a 165hp
mercruiser. I'm wondering for the pain in the ass of getting it
running with water under it and so-on maybe I could just put the prop
onto the drive-shaft of the 267 and figure a mount. the only issues I
can think of are the seal arround the shaft, and the ratio. Anyone know
a mercruiser's ratio? How bout the ratio of a 267 V8 to the drive-shaf
for the 80 camaro? I figure the tranny would be really cool for
choosing fast or pulling a skier.
Thanks,
Elliott


I suggest contacting those Cubans that almost made it to the USA
recently in a 53'Chevy truck. Do what they did and it would save lots
of time as you could leave the driveline in the Camaro. Just hook the
prop to the driveshaft the way the Cubans did and strap barrels to the
side. It will be much safer and you will have two boats. The US Coast
Guard had to sink the Cuban vessel and it was not that easy.

--
Terry K - My email address is MY PROPERTY, and is protected by
copyright legislation. Permission to reproduce it is
specifically denied for mass mailing and unrequested
solicitations. Reproduction or conveyance for any unauthorised
purpose is THEFT and PLAGIARISM. Abuse is Invasion of privacy
and harassment. Abusers may be prosecuted. -This notice footer
released to public domain. Spamspoof salad by spamchock -
SofDevCo

Well the Camaro lives (it was worth fixin for a bro). It even got a
bolt on truck-rack now (home built w/ my torch). My bro's drivin it
from MD to ElPaso and keepin it. Thus the ol 250 mercruiser (165HP)
will have to function again (any links for 250 chevy engines?). I
suspect it may be siezed. Maybe time to buy an old truck and work the
parts into the mercruiser. Maybe some PB-Blaster into the spark plug
holes could save it. The idiot I bought it from drained out the oil so
it's been dry for over a year and is missing some of the fuel-line
pieces. He also said "the starter grinds but it turned" - I'm not sure
I believe the turned part. Pray for me and pray for bro taking the
Camaro home to die!
Elliott

wrote:

Just got a 21' 73 sportcraft boat. Have a recked an 80 camaro w/ a good
267 (v8) and tranny. The boat is pretty rough and has a 165hp
mercruiser. I'm wondering for the pain in the ass of getting it
running with water under it and so-on maybe I could just put the prop
onto the drive-shaft of the 267 and figure a mount. the only issues I
can think of are the seal arround the shaft, and the ratio. Anyone know
a mercruiser's ratio? How bout the ratio of a 267 V8 to the drive-shaf
for the 80 camaro? I figure the tranny would be really cool for
choosing fast or pulling a skier.
Thanks,
Elliott

Good Thing about the Camaro. For any car engine and transmission you put
into a boat you will need to work out some form of thrust bearing on the
propshaft. A small block slant 6 or v6 might be the best options. Besure
to put a fire resistor on the carb.

As far as the merc. throw in some mystery oil LOTS OF IT and let it soak
out for a little while then fill with oil. Put plenty of mystery oil in the
cylinders to insure that the rings are free. The old timers used mystery
oil and or BRAKE FLUID for years but i'm not certian how well the main oil
seals would take to the break fluid, they should handle it. But again,
while you have it out it might be a good bet to replace the front and rear
oil seals anyway. Keeps the gunk out of the bilge.

Draining the oil was a good thing. Used crankcase oil is acidic.
Always drain it and replace with fresh when storing an engine. It's
even better to drain and leave empty than to leave used oil in the
engine cause a little surface rust is easier to deal with.

My opinion, worth what you paid for it.

Ron

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 06:53:25 -0500, terry wrote:

Good Thing about the Camaro. For any car engine and transmission you put
into a boat you will need to work out some form of thrust bearing on the
propshaft. A small block slant 6 or v6 might be the best options. Besure
to put a fire resistor on the carb.

As far as the merc. throw in some mystery oil LOTS OF IT and let it soak
out for a little while then fill with oil. Put plenty of mystery oil in the
cylinders to insure that the rings are free. The old timers used mystery
oil and or BRAKE FLUID for years but i'm not certian how well the main oil
seals would take to the break fluid, they should handle it. But again,
while you have it out it might be a good bet to replace the front and rear
oil seals anyway. Keeps the gunk out of the bilge.

Someone gave me a boat with a locked up Mercruiser. It was a 4 cylinder
Iron Duke and an Alpha One outdrive. The motor oil was drained (or leaked
out) and the boat sat for about 5 years uncovered.

The transom was completely shot, and the floor was beginning to turn into
topsoil.

I did have some fun freeing the motor - I removed all of the plugs and
filled the cylinders with transmission fluid.. and let it sit.

When it finally broke free, you should have seen the trans fluid fly out
of those spark plug holes. I'd say a couple of cylinders propelled the
trans fluid 15-20' into the air.

Make sure to crank it with the plugs out...:-)

I gave the boat away to someone who just wanted the trailer. It was just
too far gone. We ended up picking up an 86 Sunbird 175, same motor and
outdrive combination.. awesome boat. This summer we ended up with a
new 22' pontoon (2004 Swee****er) + 90hp Johnson 2 stroke outboard.
It's almost as fast as the Sunbird (30mph) but drives like a bus.

Now that all of the kinks are worked out of the new boat it's time to put
it up for the winter. Go figure - the Sunbird hasn't had any significant
issues since we bought it over 2 years ago .. and the new boat broke every
time we went out - little things like VRO pumps and engine control
computer (called "SLOW"). New stuff is garbage.

-Steve

Hi Ron,

Please leave old oil in rather than none! Far better chance of survival...
Check out the old trucks that have been maintained with judicious
application of waste oil underneath. Or old British motorcycles. :0)

Had a friend who reved the sh** out of his old Studebaker while he drained
the oil to be sure all the old was out. Finally got that perfect oil change
with the rebuilt motor.

Old oil better than none, but of course new is best for storage. Just run it
a little to make sure it has circulated. Do youself a favour and change oil
fiters every time. Or even more often than oil changes if hours are low.

Opinion again, for the going rate.

surfnturf

"Ron Thornton" wrote in message
...
Draining the oil was a good thing. Used crankcase oil is acidic.
Always drain it and replace with fresh when storing an engine. It's
even better to drain and leave empty than to leave used oil in the
engine cause a little surface rust is easier to deal with.

My opinion, worth what you paid for it.

Ron

Surfnturf,

I've not had good luck with the few engines I've torn down that were
stored for some years with old oil. All the bearings and machined
surfaces were shot. From what I understand this is due to the sulfur
compounds that come out of the oil when heated combining with water to
form sulfuric acid. It's been a while though, maybe the new oils don't
do that.


Regards, Ron

Condensation was the likely culprit. Which is why it helps to change the
filter often. But yes, have seen pitting at times on bearing journals which
would be due to oxidized sulfur componds disolving in the moisture.

Modern fuels are perhaps less prone to this with the emphasis on cleaner low
sulfur feedstocks.

Cheers,
surfnturf

"Ron Thornton" wrote in message
...
Surfnturf,

I've not had good luck with the few engines I've torn down that were
stored for some years with old oil. All the bearings and machined
surfaces were shot. From what I understand this is due to the sulfur
compounds that come out of the oil when heated combining with water to
form sulfuric acid. It's been a while though, maybe the new oils don't
do that.


Regards, Ron

Sulphur is a favorite component of extreme pressure oils.
It has a characteristic smell. Come to think of it, it is the
sulphur component in eggs that provides bad smells.

Brian W

On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 19:18:46 -0500 (EST), (Ron
Thornton) wrote:

Surfnturf,

I've not had good luck with the few engines I've torn down that were
stored for some years with old oil. All the bearings and machined
surfaces were shot. From what I understand this is due to the sulfur
compounds that come out of the oil when heated combining with water to
form sulfuric acid. It's been a while though, maybe the new oils don't
do that.


Regards, Ron