If you added shims to get the overbend. Like I say, it's easy to unbend a
little and you don't want any significant built-in tension waiting for a
misguided docking evolution to cause a SPROING.

Spiling works for any task where two irregular shapes come together. The
simplest form is to just lay a wooden pencil on one surface and draw on the
piece to be cut. (You don't have to cut to the line, but there could be
some shapes that would introduce an error if you offset the cut a constant
distance from the line.)

A shoemaker's rasp and filled epoxy are both wonderful inventions.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks Roger!

Would you use the hull for clamping after steamed or build a jig for
the curved part? I'll have to get out Boatbuilding and read up on
spiling, I thought that sort of thing was for planks/strakes.
Thanks again,
SS