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MRusson
 
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Default bouyancy versus shape

Dear Group,
In an earlier post i mentioned my project being a pontoon boat. I
have run into conflicting information about the shape of the pontoon
versus bouyancy of the pontoon. Can someone enlighten me on this
subject? Large flat bottomed pontoons versus round pontoons? Thanks
folks...


M Russon
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William R. Watt
 
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MRusson ) writes:
Dear Group,
In an earlier post i mentioned my project being a pontoon boat. I
have run into conflicting information about the shape of the pontoon
versus bouyancy of the pontoon. Can someone enlighten me on this
subject? Large flat bottomed pontoons versus round pontoons? Thanks
folks...


And the conflicting information is?

You use less material in a round shape because a circle encompases the
most area with the shortest perimeter. You get more strength from a circle
because an arc distributes stress.

Hope that helps.

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What exactly is the confusion or conflict ?

heres some info as I understand the issue.


Bouyancy can be calculated by the amount of water displaced by the
hull. (as a rough figure, ignoring salinity etc)

For a cylinder it is pi * radius * radius * length with all figures in
feet. (pi is 3.14 for rough calculation)

A cubic foot of water weighs about 62 pounds.

If your pontoons were square or rectangular cross section the
calculation would be

width * height * length

(* = multiply)

square pontoon 1 foot square and 10 feet long = 1 * 1 * 10 = 10 cubic
feet
10 * 62 = 620 pounds load.
that is 620 pounds including the pontoon will have the water level at
the top of the pontoon.

since you are not going to have the top of the pontoon level with the
water surface the actual load carrying capacity is less than the figure
obtained.

I would divide by 2 for half of pontoon in the water.

The load figure must include the weight of the pontoons.

Square section pontoons carry more load for a given size, but other
structural issues come into play. The square section might need to be
heavier to deal with the stresses.

Also a round section pontoon will sink further under initial loads and
then sink less as the wetted area increases.

Calculation is per pontoon. Double for two pontoons on a boat.

regards.

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William R. Watt
 
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MRusson ) writes:

So in a nutshell, a square or rectangular pontoon will be the best
for bouyancy due to its increased surface area, but will require a bit
beefier construction since it will be exposed to hull stresses that a
cylindrical pontoon could absorb. Also, the square or rectangular
pontoon would have to be slightly larger in order to accomodate the
increased weight and offset that weight to add more bouyancy. Am i
understanding that correctly? Thanks a ton!!!!


That's it. Another thing to remember about pontoons is that each pontoon
should be able to float close to the maximum load. You want to be able to
walk right over to the edge of the boat carrying bar-b-que and cooler, and
have it remain level.

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Roger Derby
 
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One other point on shapes. Put the front platform rail a ways in from the
bow. We rented a pontoon boat on Kentucky Lake and set off with four
aboard. The other three took their lawn chairs as far from the motor as
possible, while I manned the helm. At drifting speed it was fine, but once
we left the marina and I opened the throttle, it became a submarine.

Dive, Dive, Dive.

The water only came half way back along the deck before I closed the
throttle and let the bow bob back up.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
"William R. Watt" wrote in message
...

MRusson ) writes:

So in a nutshell, a square or rectangular pontoon will be the best
for bouyancy due to its increased surface area, but will require a bit
beefier construction since it will be exposed to hull stresses that a
cylindrical pontoon could absorb. Also, the square or rectangular
pontoon would have to be slightly larger in order to accomodate the
increased weight and offset that weight to add more bouyancy. Am i
understanding that correctly? Thanks a ton!!!!


That's it. Another thing to remember about pontoons is that each pontoon
should be able to float close to the maximum load. You want to be able to
walk right over to the edge of the boat carrying bar-b-que and cooler, and
have it remain level.

--
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network
homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
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MRusson
 
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On Sat, 03 Sep 2005 17:14:25 GMT, "Roger Derby"
wrote:


That's it. Another thing to remember about pontoons is that each pontoon
should be able to float close to the maximum load. You want to be able to
walk right over to the edge of the boat carrying bar-b-que and cooler, and
have it remain level.


Roger,
Did the boat emit a sonar sound just before submersing?.....)
I would probably have dropped a letter to that manufacturer and asked
them just how deep the pontoon boat can submerge before it's
considered a diving vessel.....lol. I bet they would not think it was
funny though. Thanks for your replies. I will take what i have learned
from you and Mr. Watt and get some figures put together. Then i'll
post a few numbers along with sizes, and see what everyone thinks.
Thanks again.

regards,

M Russon
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chipster
 
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My son & I are working toward building a pontoon boat for extremely shallow
water. Our current plans call for what looks almost like two small
"jonboats" as pontoons (sealed across the top, of course). It's not quite
flat-bottomed but more like a squashed oval.
We felt that the near-flat-bottom design will spread the load across a wider
area resulting in less draft, which is our goal as I'm in Central Florida
(he's in Chicago and flies down often for our fishing trips) and most of our
best fishing - or our favorite fishing - is in the Everglades area where the
water can be as shallow as 6" and hold good fish.
I have two sailboats, a pontoon boat and several small open fishing boats,
and we have tried them all and managed to "beach" ourselves almost every
trip ... (Didn't say we were particularly good sailors ...).
Anyway - our squashed-oval concept is our next attempt, but it's now in the
approaching-the-drawing-board phase.
The deck will be very low above the pontoons, not at all like my 20'
store-bought pontoon boat. That's too high above the water for comfortably
hurling a cast net or hoisting a big fish. Or for pushing that heavy momma
out of thigh-deep Everglades mud ...
We'll build the pontoons large enough (we hope) to avoid submarining ...

BTW - On my store-bought pontoon boat, I removed the front and front-half of
the sides of the aluminum fence around the deck, and moved the remaing sides
and back out to the very edge of the deck, gaining a little more than 2"
each way - that's 4" in width. Makes a very noticable difference. The fence
had been wasting space all the way around the deck.
Removing the front fence makes such an incredible difference in the overall
comfort for a couple of fishermen that I can't imagine why everybody who
fishes from a pontoon boat (a 20'x 8' private fishing platform) hasn't taken
theirs off.
I'd post a foto somewhere, if anybody wants to see it.

That's enough outta me - thanx for reading/replying

chip

"MRusson" wrote in message
...
Dear Group,
In an earlier post i mentioned my project being a pontoon boat. I
have run into conflicting information about the shape of the pontoon
versus bouyancy of the pontoon. Can someone enlighten me on this
subject? Large flat bottomed pontoons versus round pontoons? Thanks
folks...


M Russon



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