Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Don't know what the numbers are for this case, but the Sunfish is a pretty
good boat, and with well over 500,000 kicking around, it's easy to find a "class" race or a replacement part. Market timing??? What does the Starwing weigh? Every year some new graduate of our sailing class would buy a ??? (Sunfish knockoff), sail it for the season, discover that it weighed twice what the Sunfish did, and sell it. That particular boat changed hands some six times in the four years I was sailing there. It only looked like it would be competitive. My fat belly meant that the 19 year olds would get up on a plane some ten or twenty feet before I did and stay on for an additional distance when the wind faltered. Of course they also could also hike out further and stay there longer. Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "John Smith" wrote in message ... Don't know why it (Starwing) was a failure; the workmanship is very good.. |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() What does the Starwing weigh? Starwing is a completely different animal. It has a lot of sail (the number escapes me at the moment) for a boat it's size, with a main and jib. It is very narrow at the water line, but then swells out broadly above (I figure that is the "wing"). The wood is all mahagony, and everything is done very nicely. The fiberglass is very thin, and the boat is light. At least it was until I "fixed" it. I got it really cheap because it had cracks in both sides from rough trailering. Since I don't plan on trailering it ever, I put some fiberglass over the cracks and it is fine now; if a bit heavier. Frankly though, I am not much of a sailor, and I couldn't handle it in winds over 5mph; it was just too responsive and would capsize in a gust before I knew what happened. It is much better now with a few pounds of new fiberglass. However, last week I took it out in 10-15 winds, but headed home when the winds picked up. Before I could get home a huge gust too it over, despite my hiking out as far as I could go. I am hoping some weight in the daggerboard will add a small cushion. |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
One should never (hardly ever?) capsize on a beat or a reach. Running
downwind is a different question. DO NOT CLEAT THE MAIN SHEET FAST. Letting it run in a gust depowers the sail. DO NOT TAKE YOUR HAND OFF THE TILLER. Heading up in a gust depowers the sail. (And gains distance to windward when beating.) Reducing sail makes life easier, but if you have the sheet free and are ready to head up with a quick twitch of the tiller, you can unload instantly. Hiking out is good for boat speed, but not required to avoid a capsize. My Sunfish came from the factory with a simple hook on the front center of the cockpit. Someone had replaced this with a cam cleat, but that's too risky. I put back the hook. Since I'm lazy, I added clam cleats on each of the side decks. On a beat or reach these are right under my hand and I can free the sheet in an instant. Note that's cam = bad and clam = good. Running down wind is risky. If you have too much sail up you should consider tacking down wind. Remember, with the Sunfish we're talking 90+ square feet of sail on a 150 lb boat that has no reef points and no ballast. Not as "responsive" as a wind surfer, but it can get exciting. Running before a squall line once I actually had a rooster tail from the rudder. I didn't capsize but when I tried to round up and come about to fetch the finish line I slid off into the water and it sailed away without me. (Didn't matter since the committee boat broke its anchor rode, the safety boat pitch poled, and those that didn't capsize ran way up on the shore.) Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "Toller" wrote in message ... snip Frankly though, I am not much of a sailor, and I couldn't handle it in winds over 5mph; it was just too responsive and would capsize in a gust before I knew what happened. It is much better now with a few pounds of new fiberglass. However, last week I took it out in 10-15 winds, but headed home when the winds picked up. Before I could get home a huge gust too it over, despite my hiking out as far as I could go. I am hoping some weight in the daggerboard will add a small cushion. |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() DO NOT TAKE YOUR HAND OFF THE TILLER. Heading up in a gust depowers the sail. (And gains distance to windward when beating.) Reducing sail makes life easier, but if you have the sheet free and are ready to head up with a quick twitch of the tiller, you can unload instantly. Hiking out is good for boat speed, but not required to avoid a capsize. by "heading up" he means pushing the tiller away from you as if you were tacking. ![]() -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 27 Aug 2005 22:46:50 GMT, William R. Watt said:
DO NOT TAKE YOUR HAND OFF THE TILLER. Heading up in a gust depowers the sail. (And gains distance to windward when beating.) Reducing sail makes life easier, but if you have the sheet free and are ready to head up with a quick twitch of the tiller, you can unload instantly. Hiking out is good for boat speed, but not required to avoid a capsize. by "heading up" he means pushing the tiller away from you as if you were tacking. ![]() A manoeuvre also known as "luffing". --Damian |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
The lead won't help at all.
You have to mold the bottom two-thirds of the board in lead to even feel a difference, and would not stop a knock down like you describe. It would make the boat take on roughly twice the added ballast weight (assumption of typical dingy/daysailor) in water to unload when you try to right it. Learn to sail the boat with just enough grip on the main to keep it trim. Don't lock is down ever. When the wind hits let the main flog and sail on the jib hold maintain control. That is what you do with every other "too much sail" dink (the list is long). Matt Colie Lifelong Waterman, Licensed Mariner and Pathological Sailor (of Scotts, Interlakes, Lightnings, Interclub dingys, Sailfish [not-Sun], Rebels and many other classes) Toller wrote: What does the Starwing weigh? Starwing is a completely different animal. It has a lot of sail (the number escapes me at the moment) for a boat it's size, with a main and jib. It is very narrow at the water line, but then swells out broadly above (I figure that is the "wing"). The wood is all mahagony, and everything is done very nicely. The fiberglass is very thin, and the boat is light. At least it was until I "fixed" it. I got it really cheap because it had cracks in both sides from rough trailering. Since I don't plan on trailering it ever, I put some fiberglass over the cracks and it is fine now; if a bit heavier. Frankly though, I am not much of a sailor, and I couldn't handle it in winds over 5mph; it was just too responsive and would capsize in a gust before I knew what happened. It is much better now with a few pounds of new fiberglass. However, last week I took it out in 10-15 winds, but headed home when the winds picked up. Before I could get home a huge gust too it over, despite my hiking out as far as I could go. I am hoping some weight in the daggerboard will add a small cushion. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Fiberglassing Help!!!!!! | Boat Building | |||
Fiberglassing anguish | Boat Building | |||
Questions about Fiberglassing Wood - OurBoat.jpg (0/1) | Boat Building | |||
cat daggerboard building | Boat Building | |||
Repairing a daggerboard | Boat Building |