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#1
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Stearns 12 Volt Quick Change Oil Pump is crap had one and hated it tubes
etc. leaked and it didn't pump. I now use a manual. GL "Chris" wrote in message oups.com... I am trying to find an oil change pump; after a total disaster with one from an auto parts store (it just didn't pump, only sucked in air through the numerous cheap hose adapters), I am looking for recommendations for a brand that will actually work. Does any one have experience with either of the following? http://www.shop.com/op/aprod-~oil+change+pump-p8204138 http://www.bartswatersports.com/catalog.asp?P=7295 A manual one would be fine as well. Thanks a lot, Chris |
#2
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If you have sufficient bilge below your engine, is there any reason
you can't use an outboard fuel line squeeze bulb in a hose to siphon the oil out? -- Roger Long |
#3
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Roger Long wrote:
If you have sufficient bilge below your engine, is there any reason you can't use an outboard fuel line squeeze bulb in a hose to siphon the oil out? Strictly speaking, a syphon uses gravity to pull a liquid to a lower level. Your idea would use the primer fuel bulb pump to move the oil. The valves in the bulb slow down any syphon passing through it, some worse than others. Molasses and thick oil both move very slowly unless urged well. The oil is thinner when hot, but likely would not move quickly enough to satisfy you. You would get a cramp in your hand, I fear, before you moved much oil That way, as the bulb does not suck very well. I use a small barrel type pump to suck the oil out the filler neck, it's slow enough, and messy, but works. A permanently plumbed hard line from the oil pan drain and a good small pump, or a downhill drain, if there is depth enough to your bilge, will do the job conveniently, especially if you warm the engine oil before draining. There is a type of pump that establishes a partial vacuum in a collector vessel, specially designed for oil changes that I hear is more satisfactory. You may find it at auto supply houses, if you look. Terry K |
#4
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Thanks, I think this will work in my case. I have a huge bilge so can
get a good level differential and a container large enough to let it run all night. I already have this rig after having to drain our dishwasher until I could get it repaired and I really hate to spend money. -- Roger Long |
#5
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On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 08:45:15 -0300, Terry Spragg
wrote: I use a small barrel type pump to suck the oil out the filler neck, it's slow enough, and messy, but works. A permanently plumbed hard line from the oil pan drain and a good small pump, or a downhill drain, if there is depth enough to your bilge, will do the job conveniently, especially if you warm the engine oil before draining. I installed this earlier this summer as per the installation I saw on a friend's Atomic 4. As I was returning a rebuilt A4 into the boat, it was a simple request to the rebuild shop to have them tap a 3/8" hole into the lowest part of the pan. A couple of plumbing bits later and a brass cylinder handpump gives me "white glove", five minute or so oil changes conducted inside the engine compartment, and it was cheaper than those vacuum style oil movers. They work well, but where the hell are you supposed to keep them? R. |
#6
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![]() I got the Stearns before you had replied; It worked well for me. It does need to be primed with a bit of oil, but once it pumps oil, it does the job nicely. Chris |
#7
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your mouth and a rubber hose , neither of which will break.
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