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#1
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Hi all,
After building a simple plywood dinghy to test my capabilities, I now feel confident to go on and realise an old dream: To build my own sail boat. It's going to be trailer-able and around 15-16 feet. With centerboard and a little cabin with sleeping capabilities for two and a half. I have searched the net, read a lot, and found many nice designs in this category. But then I realised... Why not take it one step further and make the design my self? I have Googled some more, and found Carlson Designs "Hulls" program and started playing with it. Fantastic that you can get such a program for free! But I know, that designing a Hull is one thing. Designing a seaworthy and yet beautiful hull is another. And then designing centerboard, rudder, rigg, cabin, deck and so on is another thing. How do I know that the sails will not tear it all apart in the first breeze? How do I ensure that the sailing capabilities will be Ok? For this I am now asking here for any good advice, books, web pages etc. which can help me. I have no particular time-frame, and I will rather do this good, than ending up with a useless boat after spending thousinds of hours in the shed building it. Best regards, Thomas |
#2
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![]() You're welcome to look at the design process for Solo15 on my website under "Boats" (address below). It describes how I used two free hull design programs (Carlson and Blue Peter) and compared the numbers to lists of boats in books. The Solo15 was an exercise to demonstrate on the Internet how amateurs like myself might go about designing a small boat. The design is incomplete and will not likely be built. I'd advise reading a lot of books on boat design from the public library. Chosing the shape is just part of it, there's chosing the right strength and weight of materials, getting the weight distribution and sail balance right, etc. For a combination of inspiration and practical information for small boats I like the two books by designer/builder TF Jones. You might be interested in looking at amateurn boat desing competitions. There's one a year at www.duckworksmagazine.com. I think only the most recent one is avaiable for viewing without paying a membership fee to login. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#3
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Hi William,
Thank you for your nice and long reply. I have been looking at your web page, and found a lot of usefuld information. I will see if I can find the "Blue Peter" program also. I think it is a good idea to build models in plywood. I was thinking of building them in paper, but ofcourse thin plywood will give a better "feel" of the real thing. I will study your web page more, and probably return with more questions... It is specially the weight- and strength distribution that concerns me. Fortunately we do not have the same regulations in Sweden to toilets as you have in Canada. But IF there is a toilet, it must have a tank to hold the waste. Best regards, Thomas "William R. Watt" skrev i meddelandet ... You're welcome to look at the design process for Solo15 on my website under "Boats" (address below). It describes how I used two free hull design programs (Carlson and Blue Peter) and compared the numbers to lists of boats in books. The Solo15 was an exercise to demonstrate on the Internet how amateurs like myself might go about designing a small boat. The design is incomplete and will not likely be built. I'd advise reading a lot of books on boat design from the public library. Chosing the shape is just part of it, there's chosing the right strength and weight of materials, getting the weight distribution and sail balance right, etc. For a combination of inspiration and practical information for small boats I like the two books by designer/builder TF Jones. You might be interested in looking at amateurn boat desing competitions. There's one a year at www.duckworksmagazine.com. I think only the most recent one is avaiable for viewing without paying a membership fee to login. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#4
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![]() I think you'll like using thin plywood for building a model better than other materials. I've tried things like paper, plastic, thin cardboard ....nope, ply is better. I use model aircraft plywood from the local hobby shop. It bends realistically and you can cut it with scissors. Brian D "Thomas Veber" wrote in message ... Hi William, Thank you for your nice and long reply. I have been looking at your web page, and found a lot of usefuld information. I will see if I can find the "Blue Peter" program also. I think it is a good idea to build models in plywood. I was thinking of building them in paper, but ofcourse thin plywood will give a better "feel" of the real thing. I will study your web page more, and probably return with more questions... It is specially the weight- and strength distribution that concerns me. Fortunately we do not have the same regulations in Sweden to toilets as you have in Canada. But IF there is a toilet, it must have a tank to hold the waste. Best regards, Thomas "William R. Watt" skrev i meddelandet ... You're welcome to look at the design process for Solo15 on my website under "Boats" (address below). It describes how I used two free hull design programs (Carlson and Blue Peter) and compared the numbers to lists of boats in books. The Solo15 was an exercise to demonstrate on the Internet how amateurs like myself might go about designing a small boat. The design is incomplete and will not likely be built. I'd advise reading a lot of books on boat design from the public library. Chosing the shape is just part of it, there's chosing the right strength and weight of materials, getting the weight distribution and sail balance right, etc. For a combination of inspiration and practical information for small boats I like the two books by designer/builder TF Jones. You might be interested in looking at amateurn boat desing competitions. There's one a year at www.duckworksmagazine.com. I think only the most recent one is avaiable for viewing without paying a membership fee to login. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#5
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B.rian D write
"I think you'll like using thin plywood for building a model better than other materials. " Exactly aero ply is another name for it ,it come 0,4 mm. and 0,8 mm as thin almost as paper but increadible strong it is usealy 3 layers but need to be prepared with thin epoxy if you plan to sail it as the glue can be water solvent anyway steaming it can make it delaminate so make tests before you start experiment with this great stuff. P.C. |
#6
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Hi William,
I have been wondering... Wouldn't it, from a forces point of view, be a good idea to put the mast on one of the bulkheads? /Thomas "William R. Watt" skrev i meddelandet ... You're welcome to look at the design process for Solo15 on my website under "Boats" (address below). It describes how I used two free hull design programs (Carlson and Blue Peter) and compared the numbers to lists of boats in books. The Solo15 was an exercise to demonstrate on the Internet how amateurs like myself might go about designing a small boat. The design is incomplete and will not likely be built. I'd advise reading a lot of books on boat design from the public library. Chosing the shape is just part of it, there's chosing the right strength and weight of materials, getting the weight distribution and sail balance right, etc. For a combination of inspiration and practical information for small boats I like the two books by designer/builder TF Jones. You might be interested in looking at amateurn boat desing competitions. There's one a year at www.duckworksmagazine.com. I think only the most recent one is avaiable for viewing without paying a membership fee to login. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#7
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![]() "Thomas Veber" ) writes: Hi William, I have been wondering... Wouldn't it, from a forces point of view, be a good idea to put the mast on one of the bulkheads? /Thomas I've located the unstayed mast in a raised tabernacle at the front of the cabin wall (this cabin looks much like raised the cabin on a New England catboat) intending it and the cabin to be supported on the same framing, with the sideways stress being carried by the cabin wall and framing to the gunwales and chines. It's not entirely an untested idea. You might want to look at the way the mast is stepped in the removable partners on the Dogskiff boat on my website. That arrangement has worked fine. If the arrangement on the Solo15 caused any problems a hole could be cut in the deck and the mast stepped on the cabin sole in the more traditional manner. It's always good to have a backup plan. ![]() -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#8
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![]() People should keep in minmd that sailboats don't sail flat, they sail heeled over (mostly about 15 degrees), hence flat bottom sailboats sail on their chines and are therefore really V-bottom boats. In addition Phil Bolger recommends flat bottom boats have their bow fore-and-aft deadrise angle equal to their bow half angle, which I finally realized gives them a pretty symetrical entrance and also somewhat less weather helm than boats with less deadrise. When I raced club dingys we sat out and sailed them flat because they were designed to be sailed flat and could, on occasion, be made to plane. When the wind picks up a flat bottom boat might also plane (especially the lake scows which are desinged to do so) but in normal winds I believe they should be sailed heeled over. That's why I sail my small flat bottom boats more comfortably, sitting in the center on the bottom on a cushion facing forward. None of this scrambling from side to side with each tack and sitting out over the gunwale in every gust. I also paddle small home made flat bottom boats in which I am more sensitive to resistance and can feel the difference when I heel the boats over solo canoe style. They move in a straighter line with less effort when heeled and moving along on the chine, again, V-bottom when heeled. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#9
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![]() Thomas Veber wrote: Hi all, After building a simple plywood dinghy to test my capabilities, I now feel confident to go on and realise an old dream: To build my own sail boat. It's going to be trailer-able and around 15-16 feet. With centerboard and a little cabin with sleeping capabilities for two and a half. I have searched the net, read a lot, and found many nice designs in this category. But then I realised... Why not take it one step further and make the design my self? I have Googled some more, and found Carlson Designs "Hulls" program and started playing with it. Fantastic that you can get such a program for free! But I know, that designing a Hull is one thing. Designing a seaworthy and yet beautiful hull is another. And then designing centerboard, rudder, rigg, cabin, deck and so on is another thing. How do I know that the sails will not tear it all apart in the first breeze? How do I ensure that the sailing capabilities will be Ok? For this I am now asking here for any good advice, books, web pages etc. which can help me. I have no particular time-frame, and I will rather do this good, than ending up with a useless boat after spending thousinds of hours in the shed building it. Best regards, Thomas Sure, do it, but not alone. I designed my own 20 footer a year or so back, and even though I have built a few dozen SmallBoats in the last few years, I brought in a professional designer for the 20 footer. He went over the numbers and made a couple of reccomendations to adjust the shape of the bow, cockpit placement and design... etc... Just a suggestion, Scotty |
#10
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![]() "wtf" skrev i meddelandet ps.com... few years, I brought in a professional designer for the 20 footer. He went over the numbers and made a couple of reccomendations to adjust the shape of the bow, cockpit placement and design... etc... I have actually been considering this myself: Do the basic design myself. Then have all the "lads" down the harbour take a look at it (it is incredibly how many ideas people down the harbour have when it comes to other peoples boats :-). And then have a professional designer look over it. I think that those money are well spent. Do you have any more information about your 20 footer. It would be nice e.g. to see some photos or hear something about the thoughts in the design/building progress. E.g. how long time it took, what it cost, etc. Best regards, Thomas |
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