Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Bruce McCampbell
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Wow that is some skinny paint. I bet you had to put on three or four
coats. When I am training a new painter, I like to keep it at 17 to 17.5
sec and accept the orange peel instead of the runs. When an aircraft is
painted, unlike boats, we have to worry about sagging around rivet heads...
so you need the paint a little stiffer. Our paint is high solids so after
you get accustomed to the paint, you can paint at about 16.5 sec and get
total coverage in two coats. On another note, I tried the new 414 aircap
on the Devilviss Plus gun and was amazed at the atomization it did. Try one
out and you will be blown away by the finish...it looked like a sheet of
glass.



BTW, great web site. When I was painting rich men's boats for a living, I
was using Interspray 900 (International brand) running it through a Dean
cup at 16 seconds. It was scary work.

Cheers,
Arnold


"Bruce on horizon" wrote in message
.. .
Polyurethane paint are shinny by nature and need flatten agents to reduce
the gloss. One of the easiest way to reduce the gloss is to add talc.
25% will give you a semi-gloss and 50% will give a satin. The more talc,
the weaker the paint. The second characteristic of a polyurethane is the
isocyanides love for moisture. After the paint gets tack free, just
mist water on the surface and it will be flatter than any flattening
agent and you keep the strength of the finish.
Good Luck
Bruce
Shield Finishes and Nauticoat Marine Finish Systems
www.shieldfinishes.com





  #2   Report Post  
YSTay
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Hi Bruce,
we used a pure white primer when painting white boats (99% of boats were
white). Flash off was within a couple of minutes so I could go over it
pretty quickly. But full cure took 4 hours. I quickly learnt to apply the
flow coat till just a slight orange peel was left, then over the cure time,
it would flow out to glass....Sometimes! But painting white outdoors
usually meant an aching neck at the end of the day from looking at the paint
from as many angles as possible.
I was recently asked to paint a Cessna but I declined. They wanted some
paint I'd never used and like you said, the rivets were scary. I don't
fancy cutting back an entire plane. I faced that problem the first time I
sprayed a GRP hull with fake planking grooves.
I shoulda known about the moisture thing.... so many times I've had to
polish work because of rain (the weather here is so unpredictable). For my
current project, I think I'll let the stuff cure in a wet box since the
painting is done at the end of the day. I'll try and let you know what
happens.
I'll take a look at the devilbiss. Its about time I got a good set since I
sold the business with all the gear.
Once again, thank you.

Arnold

"Bruce McCampbell" wrote in message
...

Wow that is some skinny paint. I bet you had to put on three or four
coats. When I am training a new painter, I like to keep it at 17 to
17.5 sec and accept the orange peel instead of the runs. When an
aircraft is painted, unlike boats, we have to worry about sagging around
rivet heads... so you need the paint a little stiffer. Our paint is high
solids so after you get accustomed to the paint, you can paint at about
16.5 sec and get total coverage in two coats. On another note, I tried
the new 414 aircap on the Devilviss Plus gun and was amazed at the
atomization it did. Try one out and you will be blown away by the
finish...it looked like a sheet of glass.



  #3   Report Post  
Bruce on horizon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I got mine on ebay for $137...sometime you wonder if this stuff is hot when
the sellers sell it so cheap
Bruce

--
Shield Finishes and Nauticoat Marine Finish Systems
www.shieldfinishes.com
"YSTay" wrote in message
...
Hi Bruce,
we used a pure white primer when painting white boats (99% of boats were
white). Flash off was within a couple of minutes so I could go over it
pretty quickly. But full cure took 4 hours. I quickly learnt to apply
the flow coat till just a slight orange peel was left, then over the cure
time, it would flow out to glass....Sometimes! But painting white
outdoors usually meant an aching neck at the end of the day from looking
at the paint from as many angles as possible.
I was recently asked to paint a Cessna but I declined. They wanted some
paint I'd never used and like you said, the rivets were scary. I don't
fancy cutting back an entire plane. I faced that problem the first time I
sprayed a GRP hull with fake planking grooves.
I shoulda known about the moisture thing.... so many times I've had to
polish work because of rain (the weather here is so unpredictable). For
my current project, I think I'll let the stuff cure in a wet box since the
painting is done at the end of the day. I'll try and let you know what
happens.
I'll take a look at the devilbiss. Its about time I got a good set since
I sold the business with all the gear.
Once again, thank you.

Arnold

"Bruce McCampbell" wrote in message
...

Wow that is some skinny paint. I bet you had to put on three or four
coats. When I am training a new painter, I like to keep it at 17 to
17.5 sec and accept the orange peel instead of the runs. When an
aircraft is painted, unlike boats, we have to worry about sagging around
rivet heads... so you need the paint a little stiffer. Our paint is high
solids so after you get accustomed to the paint, you can paint at about
16.5 sec and get total coverage in two coats. On another note, I tried
the new 414 aircap on the Devilviss Plus gun and was amazed at the
atomization it did. Try one out and you will be blown away by the
finish...it looked like a sheet of glass.





  #4   Report Post  
Wayne.B
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 21:38:40 -0500, "Bruce McCampbell"
wrote:

I tried the new 414 aircap
on the Devilviss Plus gun and was amazed at the atomization it did. Try one
out and you will be blown away by the finish...it looked like a sheet of
glass.


============================

Is that an HVLP system or conventional?

  #5   Report Post  
Bruce on horizon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Conventional with a higher transfer rate than hvlp. Approved in california.
Bruce

--
Shield Finishes and Nauticoat Marine Finish Systems
www.shieldfinishes.com
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 21:38:40 -0500, "Bruce McCampbell"
wrote:

I tried the new 414 aircap
on the Devilviss Plus gun and was amazed at the atomization it did. Try
one
out and you will be blown away by the finish...it looked like a sheet of
glass.


============================

Is that an HVLP system or conventional?





Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Are zap stoppers really needed on alternators? BOEING377 Electronics 36 March 19th 05 05:58 AM
Boat Sales Info Needed Russ General 0 January 17th 05 05:03 PM
Divers Needed for bottom cleaning & zincs in SF Bay Rob Boat Building 1 June 9th 04 04:22 PM
Scientists needed for TV series Kris Scheppe General 0 January 23rd 04 05:09 PM
GAULEY FESTIVAL VOLUNTEERS NEEDED DL Luinstra General 0 August 31st 03 06:49 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:39 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 BoatBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Boats"

 

Copyright © 2017