Ken,
I've read all the replies, to date.

Do NOT get ANY SILICONE ANYWHERE near the Teak or the saw. Not only for
Teak, but for almost any wood the stuff is absolutely 'poison' to most glues
and finishes. Detergents {soaps}are also a bad thing for finishes . . .
actually the surfactants they contain.

What makes Teak difficult to glue {especially epoxy} is the natural oils in
the wood. This is the same thing that is causing part of your problem {you
said 'resin' from the Teak . . . are you cutting 'green' wood ? If so, that
could be a BIG part of the difficulty}. You can get the same problem if you
use a lot of Pine . . . very 'sappy'.

I would recommend the use of one of the 'Blade Lubricant Sticks' that are
advertised in almost every catalog. About the cheapest I've seen is $3.95.
It's simply a cardboard tube, about 1.5 inches in diameter, filled with a
softened wax. You don't even peel the paper, just ease the end into the
running blade for a few seconds . . . enough to coat the teeth. {I also keep
a block of harder 'canning wax' handy for the Table Saw and other uses about
the shop}.

Combine this with the proper blade & tooth count, plus a change in feed
rate, and your problem should ease up. Another tip may be to change your
guide blocks to Ceramic ones. The whole idea is to reduce the heat generated
by the blade.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop


"....Ken" wrote
Would anyone have a suggestion for cleaning off/keeping off teak resin
from
bandsaw blades?
SNIP