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....Ken
 
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Default teak resin

Would anyone have a suggestion for cleaning off/keeping off teak resin from
bandsaw blades?
I am having to clear the gum off daily and presently using 'easy off' oven
cleaner. It works, but takes a good half hour a day.

regards....Ken


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Didereaux
 
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"....Ken" wrote in
:

Would anyone have a suggestion for cleaning off/keeping off teak resin
from bandsaw blades?
I am having to clear the gum off daily and presently using 'easy off'
oven cleaner. It works, but takes a good half hour a day.

regards....Ken



Acetone. Prior to applying epoxy or varnish you rub the wood down with
acetone to remove excess oil. No reason it wouldn't work in your case as
well.


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Ian Malcolm
 
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Didereaux wrote:

"....Ken" wrote in
:


Would anyone have a suggestion for cleaning off/keeping off teak resin
from bandsaw blades?
I am having to clear the gum off daily and presently using 'easy off'
oven cleaner. It works, but takes a good half hour a day.

regards....Ken




Acetone. Prior to applying epoxy or varnish you rub the wood down with
acetone to remove excess oil. No reason it wouldn't work in your case as
well.


Except its a little hard to rub down a cut surface before you've made
the cut. I'd be inclined to try a trace of detergent on the blades
before use. I suspect he wouldn't be keen on lubricating the blades so
the idea of a good squirt of silicone spray is probably out but if a
monolayer of detergent molecules survives under the teak resin, the oven
cleaner should be much more effective. It would also be worth looking
at more powerfull dust extraction as more airflow and therfore a cooler
blade can only help.

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ddinc
 
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Are you cutting thick teak.? You should only have 3-4 hooks in the wood
thickness.
Otherwise the chips and dust have no were to go. Messy blade.

Easier to change the blade than clean it.

"....Ken" wrote in message
...
Would anyone have a suggestion for cleaning off/keeping off teak resin
from
bandsaw blades?
I am having to clear the gum off daily and presently using 'easy off'
oven
cleaner. It works, but takes a good half hour a day.

regards....Ken




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Ron Magen
 
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Ken,
I've read all the replies, to date.

Do NOT get ANY SILICONE ANYWHERE near the Teak or the saw. Not only for
Teak, but for almost any wood the stuff is absolutely 'poison' to most glues
and finishes. Detergents {soaps}are also a bad thing for finishes . . .
actually the surfactants they contain.

What makes Teak difficult to glue {especially epoxy} is the natural oils in
the wood. This is the same thing that is causing part of your problem {you
said 'resin' from the Teak . . . are you cutting 'green' wood ? If so, that
could be a BIG part of the difficulty}. You can get the same problem if you
use a lot of Pine . . . very 'sappy'.

I would recommend the use of one of the 'Blade Lubricant Sticks' that are
advertised in almost every catalog. About the cheapest I've seen is $3.95.
It's simply a cardboard tube, about 1.5 inches in diameter, filled with a
softened wax. You don't even peel the paper, just ease the end into the
running blade for a few seconds . . . enough to coat the teeth. {I also keep
a block of harder 'canning wax' handy for the Table Saw and other uses about
the shop}.

Combine this with the proper blade & tooth count, plus a change in feed
rate, and your problem should ease up. Another tip may be to change your
guide blocks to Ceramic ones. The whole idea is to reduce the heat generated
by the blade.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop


"....Ken" wrote
Would anyone have a suggestion for cleaning off/keeping off teak resin

from
bandsaw blades?

SNIP


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