Paint each side of dry wood with unthickened epoxy so it will be absorbed.
Wait a few minutes but don't let it cure. Then put a thin layer of
thickened epoxy and clamp just tightly enough to achieve the shape you need
and to mimimize any gaps. The thickened epoxy is just a gap filler and the
gaps are supposed to be very minor. If the gaps are too large then the
epoxy would form hard spots. I'd use fumed silica for thickener. The
thicker you make it the faster it cures - can be too fast to work with so
thicken only enough so it doesn't run and will act like a gap filler.

On Fri, 05 Mar 2010 19:30:36 GMT, Reno wrote in
rec.boats.building:

Paint each side of dry wood with unthickened epoxy so it will be absorbed.
Wait a few minutes but don't let it cure.

Reno, thanks. I made the sandwich just two hours before, and, maybe
that looked a bit unclear, I did not do such work for the first time.
But after having had some mess aroudn the workpiece after applying far
too much some time ago, another time woo little, I wanted to approach
it in a more deterministic way this time. So, I calculated the amount
of resin for a layer of 0.2mm thickness, added some 10% for the
soaking of the surfaces, and did it then exactly like you said - first
"priming" both surfaces (after carefully cleaning them)with
unthickened resin (West 105 resin, 206 hardener to achieve more pot
time), then thickened the remaining about 80% of the mixed epoxy with
cotton fibres and fillet blend fibres until the stuff had a
marmelade-like consisistence, then spread that with a piece of
hardfibre board over one surface, trying to get a pretty even
distribution. Prior, we had scaped two thick pieces of timber exactly
to the needed curvature. The two layers were put togehter after
adjusting the positions exactly, and then clamped to the templates,
using strips of thick timbers to press the layers down evenly. Almost
everywhere, the glue protruded a bit from between the layers, showing
that the pressure seemed to be distributed evenly enough.

Now the glue cures til tomorrow, then I'll use the same templates to
glue a supporting reinforcement frame.

Thanks for all your comments, and Paul, I'll try the cloth layer
method some time!

Cheers,
U.

On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 15:30:13 +0100, Ulrich G. Kliegis
diesemailadressevonUlliistzwaretwaslangabersieist
wrote in rec.boats.building:

first
"priming" both surfaces (after carefully cleaning them)with
unthickened resin

Of course not pure resin but the resin-hardener mix. Sorry for the
typos! Somebody seen my glasses?

Cheers,
U.