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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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polyurethane adhesive
Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of 1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the windlass and the deck? Thank you in advance Daniel |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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polyurethane adhesive
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote: Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of 1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the windlass and the deck? Thank you in advance Daniel I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces, looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints. BrianW |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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polyurethane adhesive
Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua wrote: Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of 1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the windlass and the deck? Thank you in advance Daniel I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces, looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints. BrianW Over time it will absrb moisture which can cause the bond to fail. So if you use this kind of glue, makes sure you have a good heavy varnish finish. That's the beauty of using epoxy - the bond is a lot more impervious to moisture although it will still need the varnish finish to protect from UV. Six of one - etc... |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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polyurethane adhesive
On Dec 14, 8:38 pm, Richard wrote:
Brian Whatcott wrote: On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua wrote: Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of 1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the windlass and the deck? Thank you in advance Daniel I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces, looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints. BrianW Over time it will absrb moisture which can cause the bond to fail. So if you use this kind of glue, makes sure you have a good heavy varnish finish. That's the beauty of using epoxy - the bond is a lot more impervious to moisture although it will still need the varnish finish to protect from UV. Six of one - etc... I originally built parts of my MiniCup sailboats with "Gorilla Glue" and I wish I had not. It has poor gap filling properties and seems o let go after prolonged immersion. I have had to go back and replace it with epoxy. |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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polyurethane adhesive
"Daniele Fua" wrote in message
. .. Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of 1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the windlass and the deck? No. Polyurethane glue has no place in a boat in my opinion. First, it needs a high clamping force of 4kg/cm2 or 60lb/in2 for a reliable bond. Do the math for any serious area.... Second, it has no gap filling properties. Yes, it fills gaps with foam, but without any strength. You need to have a very good tight fit. Epoxy on the other hand can be "slapped on" and you can just lay the pieces together and still obtain a bond far better than with poly goop. Meindert |
#6
posted to rec.boats.building
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polyurethane adhesive
Daniela,
You will find doing the job correctly once is much better than doing twice or more. Please remember the forces that will be involved, as the windlass must be through bolted to a substantial beam under the deck. The base will have to be solid to withstand the compression loads, flat on top and shaped to the crown of the deck underneath. If large pieces of stock are used, they could split over time. The best way to do this is to first make a shape template to capture the crown, then laminate properly sized planks of 1 to 2 inches in thickness preprofiled for the deck crown with epoxy and clamped to cure. When cured, finish as you wish. If the deck is teak, cut a rebate at the deck line and seal with polysulfide sealant. Please remember to alternate the grain, plank to plank, when assembling the lamination. Steve "Daniele Fua" wrote in message . .. Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of 1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the windlass and the deck? Thank you in advance Daniel |
#7
posted to rec.boats.building
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polyurethane adhesive
Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua wrote: Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of 1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the windlass and the deck? Thank you in advance Daniel I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces, looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints. Actually, it needs very firm clamping pressure and a precise fit, otherwise it will foam IN the joint, resulting in a very weak bond. I've used it on parts that are frequently immersed - but not continually for more than a few hours - and it works fine. |
#8
posted to rec.boats.building
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polyurethane adhesive
On Dec 14, 2:01*pm, Daniele Fua wrote:
Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of 1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the windlass and the deck? Thank you in advance Daniel not when i can go downt to the hardware store and pick up a two part epoxy for the same price |
#9
posted to rec.boats.building
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polyurethane adhesive
Thanks to you all, the poll had one unanimous response and I will comply
for su epoxy. Thanks to Steve for the additional advices: I will follow them too. My planks are already 1 inch thick which puts me on the safe side and I will cross the grain directions. I was also thinking of gluing teak veneer (approx 3/32" thick) on the sides in order to protect the open end of the fibers. Daniel |
#10
posted to rec.boats.building
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polyurethane adhesive
Daniele Fua wrote:
Thanks to you all, the poll had one unanimous response and I will comply for su epoxy. Thanks to Steve for the additional advices: I will follow them too. My planks are already 1 inch thick which puts me on the safe side and I will cross the grain directions. I was also thinking of gluing teak veneer (approx 3/32" thick) on the sides in order to protect the open end of the fibers. Daniel Or maybe a couple of layers of 1/2 ounce "deck" cloth and epoxy to seal everything? |
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