On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote:

Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel

I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller
handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to
immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces,
looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason
why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints.

BrianW

Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote:


Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel


I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller
handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to
immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces,
looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason
why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints.

BrianW


Over time it will absrb moisture which can cause the bond to fail.
So if you use this kind of glue, makes sure you have a good heavy
varnish finish.

That's the beauty of using epoxy - the bond is a lot more impervious to
moisture although it will still need the varnish finish to protect from
UV.

Six of one - etc...

On Dec 14, 8:38 pm, Richard wrote:
Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote:

Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel

I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller
handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to
immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces,
looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason
why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints.

BrianW

Over time it will absrb moisture which can cause the bond to fail.
So if you use this kind of glue, makes sure you have a good heavy
varnish finish.

That's the beauty of using epoxy - the bond is a lot more impervious to
moisture although it will still need the varnish finish to protect from
UV.

Six of one - etc...

I originally built parts of my MiniCup sailboats with "Gorilla Glue"
and I wish I had not. It has poor gap filling properties and seems o
let go after prolonged immersion. I have had to go back and replace
it with epoxy.

Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote:

Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel

I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller
handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to
immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces,
looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason
why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints.

Actually, it needs very firm clamping pressure and a precise fit,
otherwise it will foam IN the joint, resulting in a very weak bond. I've
used it on parts that are frequently immersed - but not continually for
more than a few hours - and it works fine.