replace mainsail halyard
 

I need to replace my the halyard for main main sail. How can I do this
without climbing the mast?

The old halyard is still in place.

Thanks

replace mainsail halyard
 

* wrote, On 3/1/2007 12:27 PM:
I need to replace my the halyard for main main sail. How can I do this
without climbing the mast?

The old halyard is still in place.

Thanks

Sew or tape (or both) the new halyard to the old and haul it up.

replace mainsail halyard
 

Listen to Jeff, not the moronic Charlie.


"Charlie Morgan" wrote in

Two methods:

1) Have someone else climb the mast


Dumb!



2) Attach a small diameter "messenger" line to the bitter
end and pull
that through. Then detach the old halyard. At the point
where the old
halyard was attached, you now attach the bitter end of the
new halyard
and use the messenger line to pull it through.

Dumber!



2a) If the old halyard is really of no potential for
reuse, then you
can just cut off the headboard shackle, attach the bitter
end of the
new halyard to that end, and pull it through.


Really stupid!

replace mainsail halyard
 

wrote in message
ups.com...
I need to replace my the halyard for main main sail. How can I do this
without climbing the mast?


Motor your boat up to a bridge that's about mast height. Put the rope
through the pulley while standing on the bridge.

Wilbur Hubbard

replace mainsail halyard
 

Another stupid idea;


"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in
message ...

wrote in message

ups.com...
I need to replace my the halyard for main main sail. How
can I do this
without climbing the mast?


Motor your boat up to a bridge that's about mast height.
Put the rope
through the pulley while standing on the bridge.

Wilbur Hubbard

replace mainsail halyard
 

Here's an explanation as to why charlie is an idiot. Yes, I
know you all knew it already, but charlie needs things
spelled out for him.

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message

1) Have someone else climb the mast


Dumb!

he said ***WITHOUT*** climbing the mast.



2) Attach a small diameter "messenger" line to the
bitter
end and pull
that through. Then detach the old halyard. At the point
where the old
halyard was attached, you now attach the bitter end of
the
new halyard
and use the messenger line to pull it through.

Dumber!


Why do you need a messanger line? Just sew the new halyard
to the old one.


2a) If the old halyard is really of no potential for
reuse, then you
can just cut off the headboard shackle, attach the
bitter
end of the
new halyard to that end, and pull it through.


Really stupid!


Cut? Why? Save the old halyard for a spare.

replace mainsail halyard
 

wrote in message
ups.com...
I need to replace my the halyard for main main sail. How can I do this
without climbing the mast?

The old halyard is still in place.

Thanks



You can cut off whatever is at the business end of the old halyard and
either sew the new one on temporarily or attach a mouse (light line) to it
with tape and pull it through... I've done the latter several times... just
pull gently otherwise you might separate the two lines.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Scotty" w@u wrote in message
. ..
Another stupid idea;


"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in
message ...

wrote in message

ups.com...
I need to replace my the halyard for main main sail. How
can I do this
without climbing the mast?


Motor your boat up to a bridge that's about mast height.
Put the rope
through the pulley while standing on the bridge.

Wilbur Hubbard

Better yet, heel the boat with the jib halyard, then pull the new line
through! g

Have a good bilge pump ready!

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote i
stupid crap deleted

Really? Have your tried this?

yelp, twice.

SBV

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in

1) Have someone else climb the mast


Dumb!

he said ***WITHOUT*** climbing the mast.


If he has someone else climb the mast, then he won't need
to climb it,
dim****.

I'm surprised you didn't advise him to drop the mast.

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 1 Mar 2007 14:18:46 -0500, "Scotty" w@u wrote:


"Charlie Morgan" wrote i
stupid crap deleted

Really? Have your tried this?

yelp, twice.

SBV


Maybe on the third try, you should follow my instructions.
Then you
won't have to keep trying.

your 4th grade education is showing.

replace mainsail halyard
 

On Mar 1, 1:20 pm, "Scotty" w@u wrote:
"Charlie Morgan" wrote in



1) Have someone else climb the mast

Dumb!

he said ***WITHOUT*** climbing the mast.

If he has someone else climb the mast, then he won't need
to climb it,
dim****.

I'm surprised you didn't advise him to drop the mast.

It's amazing how a Harvard retard can turn something simple into a
complex task.

Perhaps BB wears out his halyard so much that they can not support the
weight of a new halyard.

Joe

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...


I was leaving that for you, but you were too slow on the
uptake. I
also left out renting a hot air balloon, if you want to
mention that
idea to him. I'll let you take fuill credit, since it
sounds like
something you would come up with on your own anyway.


You're the one adding all the extra steps, after Jeff told
him exactly what to do.

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Joe" wrote in
I'm surprised you didn't advise him to drop the mast.

It's amazing how a Harvard retard can turn something
simple into a
complex task.

Perhaps BB wears out his halyard so much that they can not
support the
weight of a new halyard.


Perhaps he doesn't have a boat

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
wrote in message
ups.com...
I need to replace my the halyard for main main sail. How can I do this
without climbing the mast?

The old halyard is still in place.

Thanks



You can cut off whatever is at the business end of the old halyard and
either sew the new one on temporarily or attach a mouse (light line) to it
with tape and pull it through... I've done the latter several times...
just
pull gently otherwise you might separate the two lines.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

What a lengthy argument about the simplest of jobs which I have done many
times!
You _must_ use a messenger line unless your boat is very small because it is
very hard to sew two fullsize ropes together with a strong joint that will
not bulge and jam in the sheave at the top. Also Jon's suggestion of tape is
a no-no because as the new halliard is hauled up there is every chance the
whole thing will come unstuck and you will lose the end and then you will
have to get yourself hauled up on the spinnaker halliard to reeve the new
one or drop a 'mouse' down (if the halliard runs inside the mast). My mast
is 50' high and by the time you have hauled 50' of rope up to the top the
weight on the join is quite substantial and the additional tug as the joint
goes over the sheave may prove to be the last straw.
The messenger line can be quite small because synthetic line is very strong
and this enables you to use a sail needle and incorporate it into the old
rope in such a way that it will stand very considerable force. Take a bit of
trouble over this and save yourself a big hassle.
I have four halliards going to the top of my mast and like to take them down
periodically and put them through the washing machine. Cleans them and
softens the rope which may have developed stiffness due to stress and time.

replace mainsail halyard
 

Scotty wrote:
Here's an explanation as to why charlie is an idiot. Yes, I
know you all knew it already, but charlie needs things
spelled out for him.

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message

1) Have someone else climb the mast


Dumb!


he said ***WITHOUT*** climbing the mast.




2) Attach a small diameter "messenger" line to the

bitter

end and pull

that through. Then detach the old halyard. At the point

where the old

halyard was attached, you now attach the bitter end of

the

new halyard

and use the messenger line to pull it through.

Dumber!



Why do you need a messanger line? Just sew the new halyard
to the old one.



2a) If the old halyard is really of no potential for

reuse, then you

can just cut off the headboard shackle, attach the

bitter

end of the

new halyard to that end, and pull it through.


Really stupid!



Cut? Why? Save the old halyard for a spare.



Actually, as much as CM is a royal dunce, the messenfer line is better
in some respects becasue then you're not passing an increased width of
line through the roller at the top. On some boats, any increase in
width will cause a jam up there and then you'll end up going up the mast
anyway...also, if you have internal halyards like ours, the whole
operation goes smotther using a messenger line..we just use that cheap
stuff from WallyWorld...more cord than line, but it's strong enough not
to break under tension and slides over things ...

replace mainsail halyard
 

On Thu, 1 Mar 2007 14:20:31 -0500, Scotty wrote
(in article ):


"Charlie Morgan" wrote in

1) Have someone else climb the mast


Dumb!

he said ***WITHOUT*** climbing the mast.


If he has someone else climb the mast, then he won't need
to climb it,
dim****.

I'm surprised you didn't advise him to drop the mast.



Sell the boat and buy one that has a new halyard.... Problem solved!

--
Mundo, The Captain who is a bully and an ass

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
wrote in message
ups.com...
I need to replace my the halyard for main main sail. How can I do this
without climbing the mast?

The old halyard is still in place.

Thanks



You can cut off whatever is at the business end of the old halyard and
either sew the new one on temporarily or attach a mouse (light line) to
it
with tape and pull it through... I've done the latter several times...
just
pull gently otherwise you might separate the two lines.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

What a lengthy argument about the simplest of jobs which I have done many
times!
You _must_ use a messenger line unless your boat is very small because it
is
very hard to sew two fullsize ropes together with a strong joint that will
not bulge and jam in the sheave at the top. Also Jon's suggestion of tape
is
a no-no because as the new halliard is hauled up there is every chance the
whole thing will come unstuck and you will lose the end and then you will
have to get yourself hauled up on the spinnaker halliard to reeve the new
one or drop a 'mouse' down (if the halliard runs inside the mast). My mast
is 50' high and by the time you have hauled 50' of rope up to the top the
weight on the join is quite substantial and the additional tug as the
joint
goes over the sheave may prove to be the last straw.
The messenger line can be quite small because synthetic line is very
strong
and this enables you to use a sail needle and incorporate it into the old
rope in such a way that it will stand very considerable force. Take a bit
of
trouble over this and save yourself a big hassle.
I have four halliards going to the top of my mast and like to take them
down
periodically and put them through the washing machine. Cleans them and
softens the rope which may have developed stiffness due to stress and
time.




Well, I used tape on my Sabre for just this situation. I put a couple of
stitches in it also to hold the two pieces together.

Nothing wrong with the messenger technique you mentioned either.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

replace mainsail halyard
 

* Charlie Morgan wrote, On 3/1/2007 2:45 PM:
....

You're the one adding all the extra steps, after Jeff told
him exactly what to do.


On many boats, you either have to cut off the splice/shackle end or
use a messenger wire from the other direction.

There can certainly be a variety of different setups. However, this
touches on an interesting question: Which is better, splicing on the
shackle, or tying it? My preference is for tying, using a stunsail
tackbend (buntline hitch) which will cinch down on the shackle and
hold it tight. The knot takes up little space, while a splice could
potentially get jammed in the sheave. Also, with a knot its easy to
"end for end" periodically.

replace mainsail halyard
 

* Edgar wrote, On 3/1/2007 3:36 PM:

What a lengthy argument about the simplest of jobs which I have done many
times!
You _must_ use a messenger line unless your boat is very small because it is
very hard to sew two fullsize ropes together with a strong joint that will
not bulge and jam in the sheave at the top. Also Jon's suggestion of tape is
a no-no because as the new halliard is hauled up there is every chance the
whole thing will come unstuck and you will lose the end and then you will
have to get yourself hauled up on the spinnaker halliard to reeve the new
one or drop a 'mouse' down (if the halliard runs inside the mast). My mast
is 50' high and by the time you have hauled 50' of rope up to the top the
weight on the join is quite substantial and the additional tug as the joint
goes over the sheave may prove to be the last straw.
The messenger line can be quite small because synthetic line is very strong
and this enables you to use a sail needle and incorporate it into the old
rope in such a way that it will stand very considerable force. Take a bit of
trouble over this and save yourself a big hassle.
I have four halliards going to the top of my mast and like to take them down
periodically and put them through the washing machine. Cleans them and
softens the rope which may have developed stiffness due to stress and time.

Each to his own on this. Although I've used messengers on occasion,
I've seen them jump off the sheave and get jammed. There is little
problem sewing the ends of two halyards together, it won't take any
additional diameter. A couple of turns of duct tape makes sure it
stays fair, but I admit I'm always concerned that it would come off at
an inconvenient spot.

I guess I'll have to present these questions to my friendly rigger to
find out what he does.

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Dave" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 01 Mar 2007 15:48:52 -0500, katy
said:

the messenfer line is better
in some respects becasue then you're not passing an increased width of
line through the roller at the top. On some boats, any increase in
width will cause a jam up there and then you'll end up going up the
mast
anyway...also, if you have internal halyards like ours, the whole
operation goes smotther using a messenger line..we just use that cheap
stuff from WallyWorld...more cord than line, but it's strong enough
not
to break under tension and slides over things ..

Haven't replaced any halyards on my boat yet, but I did have to
replace the
in-boom reefing lines a couple of years ago. I laid the old and new
lines
end to end and, joined them with duct tape, then seized over the duct
tape
to keep it in place, and pulled the new lines through using the old
line as
a messenger. Worked like a charm.

All this talk about line. Real sailors use trouble-free wire. C'mon get
serious about your boat. Wire lasts almost forever and it stretches less
than fiber halyards for better sail shape and control It has less weight
and windage aloft and can be spliced to a tail of line if you prefer to
handle line.

Wilbur Hubbard

replace mainsail halyard
 

Ed, I take my halyards home every Winter and clean them.
3/8'' line, sewed them the first few times, now I just tape
them.
Scotty



"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
wrote in message

ups.com...
I need to replace my the halyard for main main sail.
How can I do this
without climbing the mast?

The old halyard is still in place.

Thanks



You can cut off whatever is at the business end of the
old halyard and
either sew the new one on temporarily or attach a mouse
(light line) to it
with tape and pull it through... I've done the latter
several times...
just
pull gently otherwise you might separate the two lines.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

What a lengthy argument about the simplest of jobs which I
have done many
times!
You _must_ use a messenger line unless your boat is very
small because it is
very hard to sew two fullsize ropes together with a strong
joint that will
not bulge and jam in the sheave at the top. Also Jon's
suggestion of tape is
a no-no because as the new halliard is hauled up there is
every chance the
whole thing will come unstuck and you will lose the end
and then you will
have to get yourself hauled up on the spinnaker halliard
to reeve the new
one or drop a 'mouse' down (if the halliard runs inside
the mast). My mast
is 50' high and by the time you have hauled 50' of rope up
to the top the
weight on the join is quite substantial and the additional
tug as the joint
goes over the sheave may prove to be the last straw.
The messenger line can be quite small because synthetic
line is very strong
and this enables you to use a sail needle and incorporate
it into the old
rope in such a way that it will stand very considerable
force. Take a bit of
trouble over this and save yourself a big hassle.
I have four halliards going to the top of my mast and like
to take them down
periodically and put them through the washing machine.
Cleans them and
softens the rope which may have developed stiffness due to
stress and time.

replace mainsail halyard
 

Katy, you should know better than to side with the NG dunce.
How does sewing and/or taping add any significant width
(dia.) ?

Scotty


"katy" wrote in message
...

Actually, as much as CM is a royal dunce, the messenfer
line is better
in some respects becasue then you're not passing an
increased width of
line through the roller at the top. On some boats, any
increase in
width will cause a jam up there and then you'll end up
going up the mast
anyway...also, if you have internal halyards like ours,
the whole
operation goes smotther using a messenger line..we just
use that cheap
stuff from WallyWorld...more cord than line, but it's
strong enough not
to break under tension and slides over things ...

replace mainsail halyard
 

* Charlie Morgan wrote, On 3/1/2007 5:38 PM:
On Thu, 01 Mar 2007 16:43:53 -0500, Jeff wrote:

* Charlie Morgan wrote, On 3/1/2007 2:45 PM:
...
You're the one adding all the extra steps, after Jeff told
him exactly what to do.

On many boats, you either have to cut off the splice/shackle end or
use a messenger wire from the other direction.
There can certainly be a variety of different setups. However, this
touches on an interesting question: Which is better, splicing on the
shackle, or tying it? My preference is for tying, using a stunsail
tackbend (buntline hitch) which will cinch down on the shackle and
hold it tight. The knot takes up little space, while a splice could
potentially get jammed in the sheave. Also, with a knot its easy to
"end for end" periodically.

I may consider that idea the next time I replace a halyard. Do you find the knot
gets in the way at times when trying to use a shackle key?

Nope, but I have a fairly large shackle.

I have a number of
halyards that are all clipped to a mast ring when not in use. That might add to
the crowding there, as well.

It might.

My other question would be the relative strength of
a well done splice versus a well tied knot. I tend to think the splice would be
stronger.

A "well done splice" is generally stronger than a knot, but its easy
to see that a knot is well tied, but its harder to tell if a splice is
well done. I've seen more splices fail than knots.

The real question is "How much strength is needed?" I think halyard
tension is well under 1000 pounds, while the strength of the line with
a knot is probably 5 times that.

replace mainsail halyard
 

Jeff, something happened to my shackle a few years back,
can't recall at the moment, but I simply tied the halyard to
the headboard. You see any problem with that?

Scotty




"Jeff" wrote in
A "well done splice" is generally stronger than a knot,
but its easy
to see that a knot is well tied, but its harder to tell if
a splice is
well done. I've seen more splices fail than knots.

The real question is "How much strength is needed?" I
think halyard
tension is well under 1000 pounds, while the strength of
the line with
a knot is probably 5 times that.

replace mainsail halyard
 

Scotty wrote:
Katy, you should know better than to side with the NG dunce.
How does sewing and/or taping add any significant width
(dia.) ?

Scotty


"katy" wrote in message
...

Actually, as much as CM is a royal dunce, the messenfer

line is better

in some respects becasue then you're not passing an

increased width of

line through the roller at the top. On some boats, any

increase in

width will cause a jam up there and then you'll end up

going up the mast

anyway...also, if you have internal halyards like ours,

the whole

operation goes smotther using a messenger line..we just

use that cheap

stuff from WallyWorld...more cord than line, but it's

strong enough not

to break under tension and slides over things ...



Becasue it does...becasue we tried it...you have to use enough tape and
stitch enough to make sure the lines don't come aprt, no? Well....that
much tape and stitching makes the halyard too fat to go through the slot
for inmast halyards...been there, done that..messenger line is the way
to go...

replace mainsail halyard
 

"katy" wrote in message
...



Becasue it does...becasue we tried it...you have to use
enough tape and
stitch enough to make sure the lines don't come aprt, no?
Well....that
much tape and stitching makes the halyard too fat to go
through the slot
for inmast halyards...been there, done that..messenger
line is the way
to go...

How many rolls of tape did you use.
ONE piece of good quality duct tape is all that's needed.
What is that, 1/3 mm ?

Scotty

replace mainsail halyard
 

You're the one adding all the extra steps, after Jeff told
him exactly what to do.

Aww, give Charlie-Krusty a break. He's trying to be nice, he's just
not very good at it (hardly surprising).

Charlie Morgan wrote,
On many boats, you either have to cut off the splice/shackle end or
use a messenger wire from the other direction.

How much voltage do you recommend using on that messenger wire,
Krustie?

In any event cutting a perfectly good splice is not something I'm very
quick to do. It wastes line & the time spent making the splice.

Jeff wrote:
There can certainly be a variety of different setups. However, this
touches on an interesting question: Which is better, splicing on the
shackle, or tying it?

Depends on the configuration at the truck. Is the head of the sail a
bit below the sheave? Does the sheave protrude very slightly to give a
fair lead straight down the luff of the sail? How long is the backstay
crane (or there may not even be a standing backstay)? How important is
it to be able to remove the shackle, and how important is it to get
every fraction of an inch in hoist?

In racing boats, I like the halyard on a splice. Generally tolerances
are tighter and there's a better lead from the sheave.

My preference is for tying, using a stunsail
tackbend (buntline hitch) which will cinch down on the shackle and
hold it tight. The knot takes up little space, while a splice could
potentially get jammed in the sheave. Also, with a knot its easy to
"end for end" periodically.

So is a splice if you don't mind cutting it ;)

Good knot suggestion. Much better than a bowline, which can get jammed
in the sheave easier than a splice and also will torque the headboard
to one side or the other.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...

. I use my main sail halyard for going up
the mast, so that's pushing the 1000 pound tension.

replace mainsail halyard
 

* katy wrote, On 3/1/2007 6:34 PM:
....
Becasue it does...becasue we tried it...you have to use enough tape and
stitch enough to make sure the lines don't come aprt, no? Well....that
much tape and stitching makes the halyard too fat to go through the slot
for inmast halyards...been there, done that..messenger line is the way
to go...

Stitching should add virtually nothing, a couple of wraps of tape are
under a tenth of an inch. So if that's too tight, it may mean that
your halyard is oversized. In terms of strength, main halyards
generally handle a smaller load than any other running rigging - mine
are only 7/16, while the jib and spinnaker are 9/16. Of course, fat
halyards are easier to handle.

The next time the mast is down you might want to look at the sheave
and see what size it is.

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
On 1 Mar 2007 15:48:00 -0800, wrote:

You're the one adding all the extra steps, after Jeff told
him exactly what to do.

Aww, give Charlie-Krusty a break. He's trying to be nice, he's just
not very good at it (hardly surprising).


How's the treatment going?

See, I care!

CWM


Nice to see you turning over a new leaf, Bitty Bill. Certainly is an
improvement over the old days when you wished death on Old Thom.

Wilbur Hubbard

replace mainsail halyard
 

I like Mundo's solution best.

katysails said:
the messenfer line is better
in some respects becasue then you're not passing an increased width of
line through the roller at the top. On some boats, any increase in
width will cause a jam up there and then you'll end up going up the
mast

And as others have mentioned, sometimes if a messenger line is too
skinny, or if the sheave is worn a bit, or if there is any axial play
in the sheave (ie space between the sides of the sheave and the exit
box), the messenger will jam.


anyway...also, if you have internal halyards like ours, the whole
operation goes smotther using a messenger line..we just use that cheap
stuff from WallyWorld...more cord than line, but it's strong enough
not
to break under tension and slides over things ..

Parachute cord is good for this. You can rub it with paraffin (shades
of Tadpole and his tallow!) and it will slide very smoothly over
almost anything.


"Dave" wrote
.......I laid the old and new
lines
end to end and, joined them with duct tape, then seized over the duct
tape .... Worked like a charm.

I've done this too, only without the seizing. Works for pulling
electrical wire too. The big issue/problem here is if the edge of the
duct tape gets caught on something inside and starts to peel back, you
can lose the whole assembly (ask me how I know).

The best solution for running new lines that I know if (and nobody's
mentioned it yet) is to take about a foot of the core out of the ends
of each line. Put the two stripped-out ends together and sew them as
previously described, and you've got a slightly smaller & more limber
joint between old line & new. It will lay flat in the sheave and not
tend to jump. And if you want to put a splice in the end, you've
already made a start!


"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote:
All this talk about line. Real sailors use trouble-free wire.

Nobody who has ever gotten snagged on a wire with broken strand(s)
will ever forget why they call 'em "meat hooks." Wire is heavy & it
corrodes & it cannot be tied in convenient knots.

....Wire lasts almost forever

And it's impossible to tell when hidden corrosion is about to part it.

and it stretches less than fiber halyards for better sail shape and control

Only if you buy cheap-o crap line for your halyards.

.... It has less weight and windage aloft

Not so.


... and can be spliced to a tail of line if you prefer to
handle line.


If you prefer to handle line, why not use line in the first place?

One other fault of wire which ropes will not... long ago I was racing
a 35 footer, which had a wire lift on the spinnaker pole. The pole was
wood (told you this was a long time ago) and due to some inattention
by the foredeck crew, the lift rubbed against the pole under strain
and sawed about 1/3 of the way thru it. The owner was not amused.

Slightly further back than this, big racing boats used wire genoa
sheets and they were a hazard as well as a PITA.

I have also seen wire halyards cut thru lines inside masts, and saw
grooves in the exit boxes of the mast itself. Wire has it's place but
there is much better stuff for running rigging these days.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

replace mainsail halyard
 

Scotty wrote:
"katy" wrote in message
...



Becasue it does...becasue we tried it...you have to use

enough tape and

stitch enough to make sure the lines don't come aprt, no?

Well....that

much tape and stitching makes the halyard too fat to go

through the slot

for inmast halyards...been there, done that..messenger

line is the way

to go...


How many rolls of tape did you use.
ONE piece of good quality duct tape is all that's needed.
What is that, 1/3 mm ?

Scotty


Wouldn't hold...ours has to run through a plastic sleeve all the way up
the mast...keeps things from banging against each other in there....

replace mainsail halyard
 

* Scotty wrote, On 3/1/2007 6:34 PM:
Jeff, something happened to my shackle a few years back,
can't recall at the moment, but I simply tied the halyard to
the headboard. You see any problem with that?


I tied on halyards for many years before I learned that some folks had
these new fangled gadgets called shackles. However, a shackle is
easier, and a bit more fool-proof, assuming its all "captured." It
takes less discipline to double check a shackle than a knot. Not the
either is too hard, but its a "percentage game" - something you do 50
times a year you're bound to get sloppy about sometime. The stunsail
tackbend can be a pain to untie, though its never impossible. And,
you can't trust anyone else to know it.

My answer to the "lost shackle" problem is that your parts bag should
carry a few extra shackles - at least one nice one for halyards, plus
a few for chain and other gear.

replace mainsail halyard
 

Jeff wrote:
* katy wrote, On 3/1/2007 6:34 PM:
...

Becasue it does...becasue we tried it...you have to use enough tape
and stitch enough to make sure the lines don't come aprt, no?
Well....that much tape and stitching makes the halyard too fat to go
through the slot for inmast halyards...been there, done
that..messenger line is the way to go...


Stitching should add virtually nothing, a couple of wraps of tape are
under a tenth of an inch. So if that's too tight, it may mean that your
halyard is oversized. In terms of strength, main halyards generally
handle a smaller load than any other running rigging - mine are only
7/16, while the jib and spinnaker are 9/16. Of course, fat halyards are
easier to handle.

The next time the mast is down you might want to look at the sheave and
see what size it is.

All our lines are oversized...on purpose...

replace mainsail halyard
 

wrote in message
s.com...
I like Mundo's solution best.

katysails said:
the messenfer line is better
in some respects becasue then you're not passing an increased width
of
line through the roller at the top. On some boats, any increase in
width will cause a jam up there and then you'll end up going up the
mast

And as others have mentioned, sometimes if a messenger line is too
skinny, or if the sheave is worn a bit, or if there is any axial play
in the sheave (ie space between the sides of the sheave and the exit
box), the messenger will jam.


anyway...also, if you have internal halyards like ours, the whole
operation goes smotther using a messenger line..we just use that
cheap
stuff from WallyWorld...more cord than line, but it's strong enough
not
to break under tension and slides over things ..

Parachute cord is good for this. You can rub it with paraffin (shades
of Tadpole and his tallow!) and it will slide very smoothly over
almost anything.


"Dave" wrote
.......I laid the old and new
lines
end to end and, joined them with duct tape, then seized over the
duct
tape .... Worked like a charm.

I've done this too, only without the seizing. Works for pulling
electrical wire too. The big issue/problem here is if the edge of the
duct tape gets caught on something inside and starts to peel back, you
can lose the whole assembly (ask me how I know).

The best solution for running new lines that I know if (and nobody's
mentioned it yet) is to take about a foot of the core out of the ends
of each line. Put the two stripped-out ends together and sew them as
previously described, and you've got a slightly smaller & more limber
joint between old line & new. It will lay flat in the sheave and not
tend to jump. And if you want to put a splice in the end, you've
already made a start!


"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote:
All this talk about line. Real sailors use trouble-free wire.

Nobody who has ever gotten snagged on a wire with broken strand(s)
will ever forget why they call 'em "meat hooks." Wire is heavy & it
corrodes & it cannot be tied in convenient knots.

....Wire lasts almost forever

And it's impossible to tell when hidden corrosion is about to part it.

and it stretches less than fiber halyards for better sail shape and
control

Only if you buy cheap-o crap line for your halyards.

.... It has less weight and windage aloft

Not so.


... and can be spliced to a tail of line if you prefer to
handle line.


If you prefer to handle line, why not use line in the first place?

One other fault of wire which ropes will not... long ago I was racing
a 35 footer, which had a wire lift on the spinnaker pole. The pole was
wood (told you this was a long time ago) and due to some inattention
by the foredeck crew, the lift rubbed against the pole under strain
and sawed about 1/3 of the way thru it. The owner was not amused.

Slightly further back than this, big racing boats used wire genoa
sheets and they were a hazard as well as a PITA.

I have also seen wire halyards cut thru lines inside masts, and saw
grooves in the exit boxes of the mast itself. Wire has it's place but
there is much better stuff for running rigging these days.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King


The wire halyards on my boat are over 25 years old and have yet to
develop the first meat hook. You must use high-quality 7 X 19 stainless
steel wire. 1/8" is strong and durable enough for sailboats up to about
30 feet. 1/8" stainless steel wire weighs less than an equivalent length
of 7/16 high tech fiber especially when the fiber gets wet. Wire is
maintenance free. It never gets stiff and moldy. People who remove their
fiber halyards every year to launder them are daft, just daft. What
next? Toss your sails in the washing machine? A sailboat's for sailing.
It's not for laundering. Running ANY type of halyard inside a mast is
asking for problems. Be sensible, run them outside the mast where you
can keep an eye on them. As for wire sawing through things that's a
problem of crew neglect and improper runs.

Wilbur Hubbard

replace mainsail halyard
 

"katy" wrote in message
...

All our lines are oversized...on purpose...


Doesn't it make it harder to suck them through that rolled up dollar
bill?

Wilbur Hubbard

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote:
The wire halyards on my boat are over 25 years old and have yet to
develop the first meat hook.

You must not use them much, then. Any wire which is bent or compressed
(such as where it runs over a sheave) under strain will break strands.



1/8" is strong and durable enough for sailboats up to about
30 feet.

And over that?

1/8" stainless steel wire weighs less than an equivalent length
of 7/16 high tech fiber especially when the fiber gets wet.

Wire never gets wet?
I would like to see specs comparing the weight & strength of various
modern line versus wire.

Heck, why not use *chain* halyards? It's strong and much more flexible
than wire.


.... What
next? Toss your sails in the washing machine?

Nope, I used to spread mine out on a nice lawn. Invite some girls in
bikinis to help & roll around in the suds.

.... A sailboat's for sailing.
It's not for laundering.

That may be, but you have to clean stuff once in a while or it turns
into a filthy sludgy mess.


... Running ANY type of halyard inside a mast is
asking for problems.


No it isn't, it's just a higher level of technology. If you have the
tools, the materials, and the skills, internal halyards are no more
problem than external. Besides, Herreshoff used them!

.... As for wire sawing through things that's a
problem of crew neglect and improper runs.


I agree. Woe to us all, the world does not always function perfectly!

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 1 Mar 2007 19:07:07 -0500, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:


"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
. ..
On 1 Mar 2007 15:48:00 -0800, wrote:

You're the one adding all the extra steps, after Jeff told
him exactly what to do.

Aww, give Charlie-Krusty a break. He's trying to be nice, he's just
not very good at it (hardly surprising).


How's the treatment going?

See, I care!

CWM


Nice to see you turning over a new leaf, Bitty Bill. Certainly is an
improvement over the old days when you wished death on Old Thom.

Wilbur Hubbard

Never happened. And "Binary Bill" has been gone for over a year now,
Get over
yourself. Really. Only a complete retard would want that guy back.


CWM

Sorry, I must have remembered wrong. It looks like it was Bobsprit who
wished Old Thom dead. Here's one of Thom's old posts indicating this was
the case. He mentioned BB ion the post and that's probably why I
remembered it wrong.
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.s...e=source&hl=en

Wilbur Hubbard

replace mainsail halyard
 

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
* Scotty wrote, On 3/1/2007 6:34 PM:
Jeff, something happened to my shackle a few years back,
can't recall at the moment, but I simply tied the
halyard to
the headboard. You see any problem with that?


I tied on halyards for many years before I learned that
some folks had
these new fangled gadgets called shackles. However, a
shackle is
easier, and a bit more fool-proof, assuming its all
"captured." It
takes less discipline to double check a shackle than a
knot. Not the
either is too hard, but its a "percentage game" -
something you do 50
times a year you're bound to get sloppy about sometime.
The stunsail
tackbend can be a pain to untie, though its never
impossible. And,
you can't trust anyone else to know it.

My answer to the "lost shackle" problem is that your parts
bag should
carry a few extra shackles - at least one nice one for
halyards, plus
a few for chain and other gear.

I do carry several spare shackles ,now, but at the time this
happened it was a 'quick fix' and go sailing. Then I just
couldn't figure out the advantage of a knot trough a shackle
through the headboard. You say a shackle is easier...for
what? My halyard stays on all season.
I looked up the buntline hitch. I'll try that this year.

Scotty