How thick is the glass on your Trawler Doug?

Is it thick enough to be bullet proof?

"DSK" wrote

OTOH in our present boat, we don't worry about Bayliners or drunk
fishermen ramming us, they'd come out in 2nd place and know it.

Bart Senior wrote:
How thick is the glass on your Trawler Doug?


About 3/4" most places. I think it's resin-rich though, with a lot of mat.

Is it thick enough to be bullet proof?


I think so, up to one of the larger magnum rifles at least. But I
wouldn't want to put it to the test.

DSK

There is something to be said for a bullet proof
boat. It would be nice to have one that wouild
stand up to a .223 assault rifle calibre.

What is your fuel capacity and range?


"DSK" wrote in message
...
Bart Senior wrote:
How thick is the glass on your Trawler Doug?


About 3/4" most places. I think it's resin-rich though, with a lot of mat.

Is it thick enough to be bullet proof?


I think so, up to one of the larger magnum rifles at least. But I
wouldn't want to put it to the test.

DSK

Bart Senior wrote:

There is something to be said for a bullet proof
boat. It would be nice to have one that wouild
stand up to a .223 assault rifle calibre.


Well, Kevlar isn't that expensive. Actually a heavy gage Dynel laid up w
epoxy would probably be effective at lower cost. You could put it over
key parts of the boat... I'm thinkin about the forefoot, keep those
shipping container worries to a minimum.

Polyester & glass layups tend to not have great impact resistance, but
there are laminates that do much better.

What is your fuel capacity and range?


350 gal, I figure we've got 1200nm (2gph @ 7.5k) easy and probably 1600
if we go slow. I am going to add some fuel capacity by putting bladder
tanks under the aft cabin. I think we can add another 150 gal that way.

DSK

I spoke to a fellow that has used it, and he
told me that sanding kevlar leaves fibers poking
out of the surface. He recommended either
fairing it, or laying it up with one layer of glass
on the outer layer for fairing.

Have you used it?


"DSK" wrote

Well, Kevlar isn't that expensive. Actually a heavy gage Dynel laid up w
epoxy would probably be effective at lower cost. You could put it over
key parts of the boat... I'm thinkin about the forefoot, keep those
shipping container worries to a minimum.

Bart Senior wrote:
I spoke to a fellow that has used it, and he
told me that sanding kevlar leaves fibers poking
out of the surface. He recommended either
fairing it, or laying it up with one layer of glass
on the outer layer for fairing.

Have you used it?


Yes, and your friend was right. There is no way to sand a Kevlar lay-up
smooth. I helped a friend put a layer of Kevlar on the bow of his
catamaran, we used a layer of medium density fairing compound over it
and ther are a few spots that show stubble... you have to look real
close, and after painting on anti-foul it's not visible. I hope no
future owners sands the forefoot(s) (forefeet?) too agressively.

A better method might be to lay a layer of very fine FG cloth over the
Kevlar, or a light type of scrim. Or, if you're building the whole thing
from scratch, put the Kevlar in the middle of the laminate.

I was thinking of using a mix of Kevlar and carbon fiber on the dinghy,
but have decided to go with just CF.

DSK

What do you think it will weigh we completed?

"DSK" wrote

I was thinking of using a mix of Kevlar and carbon fiber on the dinghy,
but have decided to go with just CF.

An extra 150 gallons is nice. That's 42% more range.

Very nice.

What material are your tanks?

"DSK" wrote

350 gal, I figure we've got 1200nm (2gph @ 7.5k) easy and probably 1600
if we go slow. I am going to add some fuel capacity by putting bladder
tanks under the aft cabin. I think we can add another 150 gal that way.

Bart Senior wrote:

An extra 150 gallons is nice. That's 42% more range.

Very nice.

What material are your tanks?


Taiwanese "black" iron. This material is a low grade sheet iron, with a
bad reputation for rusting thru. They are also constucted contrary to
good principles... for example, the fuel suction connection is a pipe
nipple welded into the bottom corner, and there are no inspection ports
(and I suspect no baffles). However our tanks are in good shape because
the fill connectors are not over them, the way they are in most
trawlers, so the condensation & deck leaks don't pool on the top of the
tank (the usual spot for rust thru).

If we do have to replace them, I'm planning on sawing off sections of
the tops and putting in a foam rubber blanket to act as padding for
bladder type tanks. These are much better, no slosh, no air surface, no
condesation.

But first, I am definitely putting in a polishing system, with a pump &
manifold that will double as a transfer & stripping system.

DSK

Good idea. Do you have a design worked up?

"DSK" wrote

But first, I am definitely putting in a polishing system, with a pump &
manifold that will double as a transfer & stripping system.