In article , Joe
wrote:

Capt. Neal® wrote in message
...
There is a large difference between making minor interior mods
and or improving deck fittings, etc. and cutting one's boat in
half.


On a steel boat its not that big of a deal. Been done thousands of times.

Yeah - on freighters & tankers with a constant draft whose hulls are
generally U-shaped in X-section. Not yachts.

If you're serious get a copy of Tom Colvin's book on steel
boatbuilding; there's some info in there about doing this and the
things to watch for. Or email me and I'll look it up in my copy. One of
my ships sails this evening so I should have a bit of free time in the
next week or 2.

PDW

Peter Wiley wrote in message ...
In article , Joe
wrote:

Capt. Neal® wrote in message
...
There is a large difference between making minor interior mods
and or improving deck fittings, etc. and cutting one's boat in
half.


On a steel boat its not that big of a deal. Been done thousands of times.

Yeah - on freighters & tankers with a constant draft whose hulls are
generally U-shaped in X-section. Not yachts.

I do not have a yacht, I have a Moter sailing vessel of Yacht quality.
Yachties want bow thrusters and chrome anchors.

I do have access to some of the largest and finest english wheels in
the world.
And I have a well studied eye of proper lines camber and curves.

Thanks for the suggestions but for some reason I doubt Tom has spent
most of his life living on steel hulls. Even if he has, I would trust
my decisions over most others including Bruce Roberts. Now if you
could hook me up with Herreshoff I would pay attention to design tips.

Thanks have a safe trip

Joe





If you're serious get a copy of Tom Colvin's book on steel
boatbuilding; there's some info in there about doing this and the
things to watch for. Or email me and I'll look it up in my copy. One of
my ships sails this evening so I should have a bit of free time in the
next week or 2.

PDW

Be careful Nutsy,

The "DUH" in the reply is almost a signature.

The moving the whole keel forward is more than a fairing job!

OT

Joe wrote:
I do not have a yacht, I have a Moter sailing vessel of Yacht quality.

uh huh.


Thanks for the suggestions but for some reason I doubt Tom has spent
most of his life living on steel hulls. Even if he has, I would trust
my decisions over most others including Bruce Roberts.

If you think Bruce Roberts trumps Tom Colvin, then you're clueless.


... Now if you
could hook me up with Herreshoff I would pay attention to design tips.

You can email or snail mail Halsey Herreshoff but he's probably not
interested even if youo could afford him. You'd need to hold a seance to
get in touch with Nat or L. Francis; maybe the new fake Crapton is in
touch with the spirit world.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Where did you get the idea that I moved my keel forward?

What kind of rum are you drinking you old fart?

CN


"Thom Stewart" wrote in message ...
Be careful Nutsy,

The "DUH" in the reply is almost a signature.

The moving the whole keel forward is more than a fairing job!

OT

What kind of rum are you drinking you old fart?

CN

Thom's posts have been more and more disjointed lately. Some have been
positively delusional.

Thom has either "changed" or it's a different Thom. His posts are very odd as
of late.

RB

Nutsy,

I guess its time to impart some knowledge to you.

In the early days of MFG Hulls, the keels were attached as they did to
the wooden hulls. They drilled holes in the fibre glass and bolted on
the keels. What happened as they aged the washers and nuts worked loose,
due to the lack of elasticity of the fibre glass. The obvious repair was
to tighten the nuts. This worked for a while but the fibre glass
continued to compress and leak, growing thinner. To get a dry bilge, new
holes where needed. Simple and least expense. Drop the keel, filling the
old holes then drill new holes in the area of solid fibre glass. Better
to move the keel forward an get weather helm than get lee helm. If the
keel didn't cause to much weather helm, the compensation was made in the
standing rigging.

This was a common problem in the early day of MFD. Particularly in the
boats built to compete in the lower price range. Later models reinforced
this area or/and buried the keel bolts and corrected the problem.

Michael Twin keeler suffered this problem. It is why he brought a new
boat. It didn't mean it wasn't a good boat. I believe it had more than
one trip around the world. It was just a point of wear that they over
looked. There are still plenty of leakers sailing out there yet.

Ole Thom

Yeah sure Oz,

Fibre Glass is solid: Especially when it was shot from the "Chopper
Guns". That is why there are never Blisters in the Hull. That is why
prenetration has never been a problem (Uniflite Valiants)

I know Neal moved his keel becaused , "He said he did." He posted it
right here on ASA when he posted the picture of his boat out of water.

That is a pretty good indication that the present CN is a put on!

BUT you're right Oz they don't bury keel bolt:^) Wish I could show you
the bilge on "Pneuma" I lift the Bilge board and not a keel bolt nut in
sight. It is flat!!

Ole Thom

Thom,

Your memory is defective. Can you not remember me ever saying my
keel is superior to most bolt ons because it fits into a cassette in
the hull.

The cassette is the female counterpart of the big, square male
upper boss on the keel. The keel cannot be moved forwards
or backwards without re-doing the cassette in the hull. As
a matter of fact the Coronado manual claims the keel bolts
are not even needed once the keel is drawn up into the
cassette and the epoxy used to bed it has set up. I don't
wish to stake my life on that claim thus I added extra keel
bolts (one inch diameter) to assist the rather wimpy originals
which were one half inch in diameter and of mild steel which
is very ravaged by rust.

Perhaps you mistook my saying that I installed extra keel bolts
by drilling through the hull in the bilge where the upper side
of the cassette is evident, tapping the cast iron keel, and
installing the stainless steel bolts bedding them in with
5200. This most certainly does not constitute moving the
keel. This did not even necessitate hauling as I did it
in the water. There were no leaks.

Besides why would I ruin the helm on my boat by
moving the keel and changing the relationship between the
center of lateral resistance and the center of lateral effort?

Get with it you old, alcoholic fart.

I'll drink to that!
CN


"Thom Stewart" wrote in message ...
Yeah sure Oz,

Fibre Glass is solid: Especially when it was shot from the "Chopper
Guns". That is why there are never Blisters in the Hull. That is why
prenetration has never been a problem (Uniflite Valiants)

I know Neal moved his keel becaused , "He said he did." He posted it
right here on ASA when he posted the picture of his boat out of water.

That is a pretty good indication that the present CN is a put on!

BUT you're right Oz they don't bury keel bolt:^) Wish I could show you
the bilge on "Pneuma" I lift the Bilge board and not a keel bolt nut in
sight. It is flat!!

Ole Thom

In article , Joe
wrote:

Peter Wiley wrote in message
...
In article , Joe
wrote:

Capt. Neal® wrote in message
...
There is a large difference between making minor interior mods
and or improving deck fittings, etc. and cutting one's boat in
half.


On a steel boat its not that big of a deal. Been done thousands of times.

Yeah - on freighters & tankers with a constant draft whose hulls are
generally U-shaped in X-section. Not yachts.

I do not have a yacht, I have a Moter sailing vessel of Yacht quality.

What's that got to do with the hull shape? Is the X-section of the hull
where you're planning on cutting it U or V shaped? Is the keel
horizontal to the WL or is there any drag? Etc etc.

Yachties want bow thrusters and chrome anchors.

I do have access to some of the largest and finest english wheels in
the world.
And I have a well studied eye of proper lines camber and curves.

Thanks for the suggestions but for some reason I doubt Tom has spent
most of his life living on steel hulls.

Bwahahahahahahahahahaha. Tom is a naval architect, ran his own boat
building yard for years, has over 300 designs to his credit and at
close to 80, he's *still* building boats. He specialises in metal
boats, primarily steel, and has designed, built & sailed his own
designs for longer than you've been alive, probably. His books are the
best reference works on steel boatbuilding for craft less than 80' ever
written.

Do a bit of research, Joe. You won't look quite so stupid. I was going
to say ignorant but ignorance is curable with effort and you're
apparently not going to make any.

Even if he has, I would trust
my decisions over most others including Bruce Roberts.

Bruce Roberts is a rank amateur.

Now if you
could hook me up with Herreshoff I would pay attention to design tips.

Riiiiiight. I thought you were just trolling, now I'm sure of it. I
won't waste my time any further.

Thanks have a safe trip

Got rid of the ship for this voyage, I'm not sailing until 20 December
or thereabouts.

PDW