BB conjectured: Katysails is a confirmed Fatso

Since you have never met me, and several others on this ng have, your =
opinion is worth nothing.

--=20
katysails
s/v Chanteuse
Kirie Elite 32
http://katysails.tripod.com

"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax
and get used to the idea." - Robert A. Heinlein

katysails wrote:

Jon mused: I think there are a couple of people around who might like that.

Only MC....he truly appreciates my sadistic side....

I do? err, I mean I do! Is your backup?

Cheers MC

Maxprop wrote:

wrote in message


On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 18:52:26 -0500, "katysails"



wrote:


Bil said: All competent (and even most incompetent) sailors have proper

tools

available.

Yes, but diving to the bottom of the slip to retrieve them can be a real

hassle, especially when some here carry so much body fat that getting to the
bottom is almost an impossibility.

Speak for yourself!


Knowing Kathy, I think she must have been speaking on your behalf. She
ain't chubby.

Not sure what the chuuby level is, is rubenesque chubby?

Cheers MC

Uh huh? Don't go there girlfren!

Cheers PC

katysails wrote:

BB conjectured: Katysails is a confirmed Fatso

Since you have never met me, and several others on this ng have, your opinion is worth nothing.

Maxprop wrote:


See other posts. I've grown tired of needlessly dropping tools overboard.
Rings are cheap.


Perhaps you should attach your tool to soemthing. It's a good idea for
heavy weather and a requirement for the bolt cutters...

Cheers

Ties on drill bits auto whip.

Cheers

Jonathan Ganz wrote:

Put it on a lanyard before you use it. I lost one screw driver and a drill
bit over the side. Everything else was tied on before I started.

"Maxprop" wrote in message
hlink.net...

"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message



Why would you not carry a simple tool to do that?

See other posts. I've grown tired of needlessly dropping tools overboard.
Rings are cheap.


I don't recommend rings. They *do* snag lines and when
they do, they're apt to get pulled out enough to finally
finish the job on their own.

Not if you tape them, same as with pins.


Straight cotter pins if put in
correctly will not come out and won't snag with or without
tape.

Um, where are your turnbuckles? On the house roof? Experience: when the
tape chafes through, the bent-over pin ends begin snagging sheets again,
just as they would have done had they not been wrapped. No problem so far
with rings.

Max


"Maxprop" wrote in message

"DSK" wrote in message


N1EE wrote:


What's the best cotter pin type to secure
a turnbuckle?

I like to use an oversized ring type cotter pin. They still have to

be

taped over (it's a commonly heard myth that cotter rings won't snag
lines) but they are easier to use and have longer useful life. Some
people I sail with use safety-pin style cotter pins. These are fine
but I think they are more obtrusive.

Agreed. Rings can be placed or removed without tools, whereas the

split

cotter pins can't.

Max

PS--Doug: Do you live in NC? If so, where? Or at least from what

port

do

you sail?

Perhaps I don't understand the description but wouldn't this cotter undo
if the studs rotate as it links two pins together?

Cheers MC

N1EE wrote:

Like you Doug, I prefer the bigger ringy-ding
type to the normal cotter pin.

However, I have never been satisfied with
either normal cotter pin or ringy-dings type
of cotter-pin for turnbuckles.

Last year I rigged and taped nine boats. I would
use the larger ringy-ding type and tape them. And
I hated dealing with them.

I've been thinking about finding a better solution
to this issue since last spring.

I recently I came across this reference on
"Turnbuckle Stud Cotter Pins" and wanted to see if
anyone else was using this method, and thought it
might be a good topic.

It is such a great method, and yet I've never
seen anyone using it. I'm going to make up a bunch
of these next year.


******************************************
Source: Tracy, "Better Boat" Vol 9, pg 13.

Turnbuckle-stud cotter pins are tough to install,
because you have to bend them back so far to keep
them from gouging passersby. And even then you
have to tape over the ends. A much cleaner method
involves stainless steeel TIG (tungsten inert gas)
welding rod. Its a flux-free stainless rod. Ask
for 1/16 or 3/32-inch (1.6 mm or 2.4 mm) diameter
(depending on the turnbuckle size) heliarc welding
rod, type 304 or 316. To make a TIG cotter, bend
one end of the rod to get and "L' shape. The bar
of the L needs to be about 1-1/2 inches longer than
the diameter of the turnbuckle stud. Insert the bar
into the top cotter hole, mark where the rod passes
the bottom cotter hole, then take the rod out and
bend it at the mark. Cut the lower leg so it's the
same length as the upper, making a "C" shape, then
file any sharp edges off. To install the cotter,
insert the "C" into the cotter holes. Using a pair
of pliers, bend the tips of the rods 90 degrees
towards each other. Finish by bending the rods
together at the studs, so the end roll inside, out
of traffic. No tape is needed--and they look great.


***********************
End of Quote.


------
| _|
|
|
|
| _
| |
------

I tried to sketch the shape above. The idea is one of
these TIG fabricated cotter-pins replaces two normal
or two ringy-ding cotter pins and does not protrude
outside the turnbuckle.

I like the fact idea very much. However, I wonder if
it still might be wise to tape off the turnbuckle to
prevent snags around the threaded part of the turnbuckle.
If you often need to add and subtract pre-bend to your
rig for heavy and light air, then tape would just get
in the way.

I also like turnbuckles with lock nuts. But it is
expensive to change over from one type to the other.
I've used these lock-nut type turnbuckles without tape,
and while dousing, I've torn many spinnakers when it
was unclear how it happened. I suspect in some cases
these spinnakers snagged on the exposed threaded portion
of a shroud turnbuckle.

Some one-design boats use brackets to secure a pair of
turnbuckles together. I like the fact these can be
released and adjusted quickly, but wonder if they would
tend to snag a spinnaker also. Has anyone used these?

Bart Senior


DSK wrote


N1EE wrote:


What's the best cotter pin type to secure
a turnbuckle?

I like to use an oversized ring type cotter pin. They still have to be
taped over (it's a commonly heard myth that cotter rings won't snag
lines) but they are easier to use and have longer useful life. Some
people I sail with use safety-pin style cotter pins. These are fine
but I think they are more obtrusive.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Woods metal cotters?

Cheers MC

Maxprop wrote:

"MC" wrote in message


Curled? What do you mean?


Curling iron. $5.95 at Wal-Mart.

Max

Max is the short name for the Burmese on out boat. He is brown, strong
and very affectionate. he loves sailing but not motoring. He likes to
lick you. Is this a good description?

Cheers

katysails wrote:

Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message


Something you're quite familiar with I'm sure!


Actually, Max has naturally wavy hair. Especially when it's humid and he hasn't had a haircut in awhile. So does his dog.

Rations!

Cheers MC

katysails wrote:

Jon exclaimed: I don't want to hear about the dog!

But it's a cute dog....