![]() |
|
Results of coroners inquest.
That's the problem with cheap, lightweight racing boats.
The bottom line is they are unsafe for cruising or ocean voyaging. When voyaging or cruising one needs a boat that is built heavy enough to abide the constant strain. Take my Coronado 27, for example. She is built to take the abuse the sea can dish out. She is a couple inches thick where the keel attaches and the keel fits into a cassette where a large, rectangular boss distributes the forces. The keel bolts, unfortunately, were on the puny side because the manufacturer claimed they really only were needed for holding the keel boss tightly into the cassette until the epoxy dried. Once dried, the epoxy bond is supposed to be strong enough. As evidenced by inspecting the keel to hull joint this seems to be the case. However, to be on the safe side I installed four very stout (one inch diameter) keel bolt in addition to the factory installed half inch hardware. My keel is there to stay. Also, "Cut the Mustard" enjoys the benefits of a shoal draft keel which imparts far less strain on the hull/cassette and hardware in the first place. Why some people go off and get themselves killed in cheap, lightweight boats in the name of performance is beyond my ability to comprehend. Is an ego trip worth one's life? I think not. I would rather cruise a knot or so slower and be safe about it than be subjected to catastrophic failures of loss of life. You can have your Express 30's Pearson Flyers, J/Boats and any of that other crap that is ultimately unsuited to be put to sea. S.Simon Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... Rising Farrster, a Farr 38 dropped her keel and 2 of 6 onboard drowned. Implications for owners of yachts built prior to 1994. http://www.sail-world.com/index.cfm?SEID=0&Nid=11942 Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
Keels are an unnecessary complication. The first requirement of a boat is that
it should float. A ballasted keel is trying to do the opposite. People were crossing oceans for a thousand years before someone got the dumb idea of putting rocks in the bottom of a boat. "Simple Simon" wrote in message ... That's the problem with cheap, lightweight racing boats. The bottom line is they are unsafe for cruising or ocean voyaging. When voyaging or cruising one needs a boat that is built heavy enough to abide the constant strain. Take my Coronado 27, for example. She is built to take the abuse the sea can dish out. She is a couple inches thick where the keel attaches and the keel fits into a cassette where a large, rectangular boss distributes the forces. The keel bolts, unfortunately, were on the puny side because the manufacturer claimed they really only were needed for holding the keel boss tightly into the cassette until the epoxy dried. Once dried, the epoxy bond is supposed to be strong enough. As evidenced by inspecting the keel to hull joint this seems to be the case. However, to be on the safe side I installed four very stout (one inch diameter) keel bolt in addition to the factory installed half inch hardware. My keel is there to stay. Also, "Cut the Mustard" enjoys the benefits of a shoal draft keel which imparts far less strain on the hull/cassette and hardware in the first place. Why some people go off and get themselves killed in cheap, lightweight boats in the name of performance is beyond my ability to comprehend. Is an ego trip worth one's life? I think not. I would rather cruise a knot or so slower and be safe about it than be subjected to catastrophic failures of loss of life. You can have your Express 30's Pearson Flyers, J/Boats and any of that other crap that is ultimately unsuited to be put to sea. S.Simon Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... Rising Farrster, a Farr 38 dropped her keel and 2 of 6 onboard drowned. Implications for owners of yachts built prior to 1994. http://www.sail-world.com/index.cfm?SEID=0&Nid=11942 Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
"Simple Simon" wrote ... That's the problem with cheap Coronados. The bottom line is they are unsafe for cruising or ocean voyaging. Why some people go off sailing boats is beyond my ability to comprehend. S.Simon |
Results of coroners inquest.
Simple Simon wrote:
Take my Coronado 27, for example. Take it to the dump. The story was about real boats, not your plastic trailerboat with the broken boom. When are you going to understand that when people talk about boats and sailors they mean real boats and real sailors, not wannabes like you and your toy boat. Rick |
Results of coroners inquest.
Lucky my boat was built in NZ with the proper hull thickness eh?
Cheers MC Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote: Rising Farrster, a Farr 38 dropped her keel and 2 of 6 onboard drowned. Implications for owners of yachts built prior to 1994. http://www.sail-world.com/index.cfm?SEID=0&Nid=11942 Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
Thus spoke the scantlings expert: "The expoxy dried"
Cheers MC Simple Simon wrote: That's the problem with cheap, lightweight racing boats. The bottom line is they are unsafe for cruising or ocean voyaging. When voyaging or cruising one needs a boat that is built heavy enough to abide the constant strain. Take my Coronado 27, for example. She is built to take the abuse the sea can dish out. She is a couple inches thick where the keel attaches and the keel fits into a cassette where a large, rectangular boss distributes the forces. The keel bolts, unfortunately, were on the puny side because the manufacturer claimed they really only were needed for holding the keel boss tightly into the cassette until the epoxy dried. Once dried, the epoxy bond is supposed to be strong enough. As evidenced by inspecting the keel to hull joint this seems to be the case. However, to be on the safe side I installed four very stout (one inch diameter) keel bolt in addition to the factory installed half inch hardware. My keel is there to stay. Also, "Cut the Mustard" enjoys the benefits of a shoal draft keel which imparts far less strain on the hull/cassette and hardware in the first place. Why some people go off and get themselves killed in cheap, lightweight boats in the name of performance is beyond my ability to comprehend. Is an ego trip worth one's life? I think not. I would rather cruise a knot or so slower and be safe about it than be subjected to catastrophic failures of loss of life. You can have your Express 30's Pearson Flyers, J/Boats and any of that other crap that is ultimately unsuited to be put to sea. S.Simon Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... Rising Farrster, a Farr 38 dropped her keel and 2 of 6 onboard drowned. Implications for owners of yachts built prior to 1994. http://www.sail-world.com/index.cfm?SEID=0&Nid=11942 Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
Perhaps when they met a storm they died too.
Cheers MC Jeff Morris wrote: Keels are an unnecessary complication. The first requirement of a boat is that it should float. A ballasted keel is trying to do the opposite. People were crossing oceans for a thousand years before someone got the dumb idea of putting rocks in the bottom of a boat. "Simple Simon" wrote in message ... That's the problem with cheap, lightweight racing boats. The bottom line is they are unsafe for cruising or ocean voyaging. When voyaging or cruising one needs a boat that is built heavy enough to abide the constant strain. Take my Coronado 27, for example. She is built to take the abuse the sea can dish out. She is a couple inches thick where the keel attaches and the keel fits into a cassette where a large, rectangular boss distributes the forces. The keel bolts, unfortunately, were on the puny side because the manufacturer claimed they really only were needed for holding the keel boss tightly into the cassette until the epoxy dried. Once dried, the epoxy bond is supposed to be strong enough. As evidenced by inspecting the keel to hull joint this seems to be the case. However, to be on the safe side I installed four very stout (one inch diameter) keel bolt in addition to the factory installed half inch hardware. My keel is there to stay. Also, "Cut the Mustard" enjoys the benefits of a shoal draft keel which imparts far less strain on the hull/cassette and hardware in the first place. Why some people go off and get themselves killed in cheap, lightweight boats in the name of performance is beyond my ability to comprehend. Is an ego trip worth one's life? I think not. I would rather cruise a knot or so slower and be safe about it than be subjected to catastrophic failures of loss of life. You can have your Express 30's Pearson Flyers, J/Boats and any of that other crap that is ultimately unsuited to be put to sea. S.Simon Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... Rising Farrster, a Farr 38 dropped her keel and 2 of 6 onboard drowned. Implications for owners of yachts built prior to 1994. http://www.sail-world.com/index.cfm?SEID=0&Nid=11942 Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
My keel stub is 2" thick and forms part of the structural grid. 8 of
the bolts are in double rows as well... Cheers MC Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote: On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 09:51:06 +1300, The_navigator© scribbled thusly: Lucky my boat was built in NZ with the proper hull thickness eh? Cheers MC Are you sure? ABS was and still is pretty much the standard used by all boatbuilders. Generally they wouldn't build stronger than what was at the time the rule. http://www.sail-world.com/index.cfm?SEID=0&Nid=11942 Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
Maybe you're lucky it hasn't snapped of yet.
"The_navigator©" wrote in message ... Lucky my boat was built in NZ with the proper hull thickness eh? Cheers MC Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote: Rising Farrster, a Farr 38 dropped her keel and 2 of 6 onboard drowned. Implications for owners of yachts built prior to 1994. http://www.sail-world.com/index.cfm?SEID=0&Nid=11942 Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote
No actually it was a problem with regulations ..... Regulations ARE a problem. Foolish buyers of automobiles, boats, medicines, et al, think that regulations are there to protect them from their own ignorance and stupidity. In fact they protect unscrupulous manufacturers. "My product conforms to Government regulations" provides a fine defense against lawsuits. |
Results of coroners inquest.
Oz,
Are you sure about bolting to a stub? I almost didn't buy my present boat because it had no visable keel bolts. I assumed they were buryed. Being use the doing all the maintenance on the leaking keel bolts I wasn't sure of how to take care of the problem. My Broker laughed at me. He said my keel will never have bolt leaks because the whole keel is part of the hull. The light finally went on. Keels shouldn't be bolted to fibre Glass. It is a method that was carried over from wooded construction. When a keel bolt works on fibreglass there is no recovery and it will only get worse until you do maintenance. Schooner Trash can confirm this. I know it. It is a fault racers put up with to have the option of changing keels. OT |
Results of coroners inquest.
You're full of **** as usual, old man!
Bolting keels to a fiberglass hull is the best way to do it. What you have on your inferior boat is a hull molded in the shape of a keel with lead if you're lucky, and concrete if you aren't placed into the hollow hull-shaped- like-a-keel. A bolted-on lead keel is the best choice with a bolted-on cast iron keel second in line. The hull must be engineered to manage the forces involved, however. This is not very hard for an engineer to design. It's only the racers that are built as light as possible that seem to have problems with fin keels breaking off. S.Simon "Thom Stewart" wrote in message ... Oz, Are you sure about bolting to a stub? I almost didn't buy my present boat because it had no visable keel bolts. I assumed they were buryed. Being use the doing all the maintenance on the leaking keel bolts I wasn't sure of how to take care of the problem. My Broker laughed at me. He said my keel will never have bolt leaks because the whole keel is part of the hull. The light finally went on. Keels shouldn't be bolted to fibre Glass. It is a method that was carried over from wooded construction. When a keel bolt works on fibreglass there is no recovery and it will only get worse until you do maintenance. Schooner Trash can confirm this. I know it. It is a fault racers put up with to have the option of changing keels. OT |
Results of coroners inquest.
Are you sure?
;-P Cheers MC Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote: On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 12:14:31 +1300, The_navigator© scribbled thusly: My keel stub is 2" thick and forms part of the structural grid. 8 of the bolts are in double rows as well... Cheers MC OK, that'll do :-) Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
Dear Thom
If properly designed there is no problem with bolting keels on. Bolting an external deep keel on has several advantages for construction, transportation etc. It can also save costs by placing the tensile load on bolts whose quality and later state of health is more easily determined than that of the hull skin -which would have to cover the entire surface of the fin to carry the weight in the keel. Getting the lead inside the fin might be a problem too.. This is less of an issue for small boats where ballast weights are more modest. Finally, and perhaps most important, the solution you prefer would require the fin to be laid up in halves (being a long thin structure) and the bonding of those halves would be very wasteful of material and not a good structural solution as the joint would be a 'weak point'. Cheers MC Thom Stewart wrote: Oz, Are you sure about bolting to a stub? I almost didn't buy my present boat because it had no visable keel bolts. I assumed they were buryed. Being use the doing all the maintenance on the leaking keel bolts I wasn't sure of how to take care of the problem. My Broker laughed at me. He said my keel will never have bolt leaks because the whole keel is part of the hull. The light finally went on. Keels shouldn't be bolted to fibre Glass. It is a method that was carried over from wooded construction. When a keel bolt works on fibreglass there is no recovery and it will only get worse until you do maintenance. Schooner Trash can confirm this. I know it. It is a fault racers put up with to have the option of changing keels. OT |
Results of coroners inquest.
I agree, although a depleted uranium keel is even better than lead...
Cheers MC Simple Simon wrote: Bolting keels to a fiberglass hull is the best way to do it. What you have on your inferior boat is a hull molded in the shape of a keel with lead if you're lucky, and concrete if you aren't placed into the hollow hull-shaped- like-a-keel. A bolted-on lead keel is the best choice with a bolted-on cast iron keel second in line. The hull must be engineered to manage the forces involved, however. This is not very hard for an engineer to design. It's only the racers that are built as light as possible that seem to have problems with fin keels breaking off. S.Simon "Thom Stewart" wrote in message ... Oz, Are you sure about bolting to a stub? I almost didn't buy my present boat because it had no visable keel bolts. I assumed they were buryed. Being use the doing all the maintenance on the leaking keel bolts I wasn't sure of how to take care of the problem. My Broker laughed at me. He said my keel will never have bolt leaks because the whole keel is part of the hull. The light finally went on. Keels shouldn't be bolted to fibre Glass. It is a method that was carried over from wooded construction. When a keel bolt works on fibreglass there is no recovery and it will only get worse until you do maintenance. Schooner Trash can confirm this. I know it. It is a fault racers put up with to have the option of changing keels. OT |
Results of coroners inquest.
I assume you're talking about an interior keel, that is lead poured into the
fiberglass hull. This is not immune from problems. I remember reading an Ocean Navigator article about a cruiser that went through Woods Hole and made the classic mistake of hesitating in the turn, and ended on Red Ledge, the rocks just to the east of the channel. The CG pulled him off fairly quickly, but the interior keel was bent, and the boat was declared totaled. "Thom Stewart" wrote in message ... Oz, Are you sure about bolting to a stub? I almost didn't buy my present boat because it had no visable keel bolts. I assumed they were buryed. Being use the doing all the maintenance on the leaking keel bolts I wasn't sure of how to take care of the problem. My Broker laughed at me. He said my keel will never have bolt leaks because the whole keel is part of the hull. The light finally went on. Keels shouldn't be bolted to fibre Glass. It is a method that was carried over from wooded construction. When a keel bolt works on fibreglass there is no recovery and it will only get worse until you do maintenance. Schooner Trash can confirm this. I know it. It is a fault racers put up with to have the option of changing keels. OT |
Results of coroners inquest.
It's heavier but is it soft enough to cushion possible
impacts with the sea bottom? Since it is used to pierce armor I've got a feeling it is pretty stout stuff. S.Simon "The_navigator©" wrote in message ... I agree, although a depleted uranium keel is even better than lead... Cheers MC Simple Simon wrote: Bolting keels to a fiberglass hull is the best way to do it. What you have on your inferior boat is a hull molded in the shape of a keel with lead if you're lucky, and concrete if you aren't placed into the hollow hull-shaped- like-a-keel. A bolted-on lead keel is the best choice with a bolted-on cast iron keel second in line. The hull must be engineered to manage the forces involved, however. This is not very hard for an engineer to design. It's only the racers that are built as light as possible that seem to have problems with fin keels breaking off. S.Simon "Thom Stewart" wrote in message ... Oz, Are you sure about bolting to a stub? I almost didn't buy my present boat because it had no visable keel bolts. I assumed they were buryed. Being use the doing all the maintenance on the leaking keel bolts I wasn't sure of how to take care of the problem. My Broker laughed at me. He said my keel will never have bolt leaks because the whole keel is part of the hull. The light finally went on. Keels shouldn't be bolted to fibre Glass. It is a method that was carried over from wooded construction. When a keel bolt works on fibreglass there is no recovery and it will only get worse until you do maintenance. Schooner Trash can confirm this. I know it. It is a fault racers put up with to have the option of changing keels. OT |
Results of coroners inquest.
Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 16:43:14 -0500, "Simple Simon" scribbled thusly: It's heavier but is it soft enough to cushion possible impacts with the sea bottom? Since it is used to pierce armor I've got a feeling it is pretty stout stuff. S.Simon Cushion? WTF are you talking about? You know, when a sailor runs into a rock or other hard object on the bottom - maybe a coral head it is said that lead, being soft, will cushion the blow by deforming and absorbing some of the force thus sparing the structure of the yacht. S.Simon |
Results of coroners inquest.
Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 17:08:21 -0500, "Simple Simon" scribbled thusly: Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 16:43:14 -0500, "Simple Simon" scribbled thusly: It's heavier but is it soft enough to cushion possible impacts with the sea bottom? Since it is used to pierce armor I've got a feeling it is pretty stout stuff. S.Simon Cushion? WTF are you talking about? You know, when a sailor runs into a rock or other hard object on the bottom - maybe a coral head it is said that lead, being soft, will cushion the blow by deforming and absorbing some of the force thus sparing the structure of the yacht. S.Simon Bwaaahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaa! Cappy that rates among the most idiotic things that you've ever written!! It did not originate with me but I can see the logic of it. Your reaction, on the other hand, is illogical. S.Simon |
Results of coroners inquest.
Simple,
You are looking in the wrong direction. The Pile of **** is in Your Court. My Keel is a separate Keel that has been attached to a "Newport 30" hull and Fibre Glassed into the Hull/including the lead wing also incased in Fibre Glass. I've had both; Bolted on and Molded on. I can say, from experience after 14 years the molded in has given me zero problems. I can't say that with either of my Bolt ons |
Results of coroners inquest.
Hey Oz,
Did that former Patner have anything to do with that POS the Kiwi Built for the America's Cup Defense? smile What an object of Pride to show the world on World Wide TV of Kiwi boat building :^) Ole Thom |
Results of coroners inquest.
Hey Oz,
Did that former Patner have anything to do with that POS the Kiwi Built for the America's Cup Defense? smile What an object of Pride to show the world on World Wide TV of Kiwi boat building :^) Ole Thom Wasn't that a Farr project? |
Results of coroners inquest.
I have to wonder who engineered the hull to
accept this 'add on' keel. It sounds to me like a disaster waiting to happen. I wonder if the scantlings are right for a glassed-on false keel? I doubt it. I can envision stress cracks galore. Wear your exposure suit at all times. S.Simon "Thom Stewart" wrote in message ... Simple, You are looking in the wrong direction. The Pile of **** is in Your Court. My Keel is a separate Keel that has been attached to a "Newport 30" hull and Fibre Glassed into the Hull/including the lead wing also incased in Fibre Glass. I've had both; Bolted on and Molded on. I can say, from experience after 14 years the molded in has given me zero problems. I can't say that with either of my Bolt ons |
Results of coroners inquest.
Simple Simon wrote:
It did not originate with me but I can see the logic of it. Oh Geez, it is truly amazing what passes for logic in your mind. Your reaction, on the other hand, is illogical. It was the reaction of anyone with more than an elementary school education, a few moments exposure to high school physics, and the world outside a mental institution. But then I guess you applied the same logic to your selection of galvanized pipe to repair your broken boom. Master mariner, indeed. If you ever left your mooring you would be a hazard to navigation. As it is you are just a bad joke, a health hazard, and a marine pollutant. Rick |
Results of coroners inquest.
I check my keel bolts every 6 mos or so. They're easily accessible on
the Cal 20. Doesn't hurt to check. When I hauled it the first time, several were loose. Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 22:59:29 GMT, scribbled thusly: On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 08:03:41 +1100, "Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza" wrote: I could never buy a C&C with their "smile" reputation because any cracking meands movement no matter what the owners/builders may say. I suspect that is the real reason Bubbles purchased his boat cheap. The crack means water ingress, the water one devoid of oxygen will corrode the keelbolts and then the real drama begins. I would be interested in seeing his current haulout shots to see if he had the problem fixed. This is just plain nonsense. The C&C smile is very rarely cause for alarm. Cracking does not always mean shifting or a breech. In the case of C&C, what it usually means is some of the extreme outer layer of fillet cracking due to stretching of the hard, non flexible fillet material. Umm what's causing the stretching? Movement? The keel joint itself remains water tight unless the keel bolts have not been properly torqued. Every spring, I spend all of 15 minutes checking the torque on those 5 big bolts. No big deal. I've never needed to check keel bolts more than once after a keel was installed unless there were unusual circumstances. ie grounding or extreme weather. First sign is usually cracking. My C&C had a crack all the way around the keel when I bought it. The keel bolts were not tightened properly. The keel had been professionally rebedded 5 years earlier, but the keel bolts had not been checked since then. Even at that, there was no, none, nada, zilch, leaking into the bilge Water can still get around the bolts without getting into the bilge. I simply torqued the bolts properly, ground out the crack a little bigger and filled it with Marine Tex. The crack has not re-appeared. This is a complete NON - ISSUE for people knowledgeable about boat construction. Oh OK, so next time I see a boat with cracks right around the hull/keel joint I'll just think about you and pass it off as nothing to worry about, Just torque em up and she'll be right mate. The famous C&C smile is cosmetic for the most part. I have seen boats of many brands with true keel separation. C&C is better than most in this regard because of the way the joint is designed. Cosmetic for the most part....What's the other part? BB Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote
On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 18:01:36 -0500, "Simple Simon" scribbled thusly: You know, when a sailor runs into a rock or other hard object on the bottom - maybe a coral head it is said that lead, being soft, will cushion the blow by deforming and absorbing some of the force thus sparing the structure of the yacht. Bwaaahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaa! Sorry but SS is right on this one. A sharp hammer like impact imparts very high albiet near instantanious loads that break relatively brittle materials like glass and the glass fibers in composites. The soft lead would absorb some of the peak load and spread the rest over a longer period of time reducing the peak stress. That's why race bikes never use steel crash bars. Enough to make a difference? Yer pays yer money and .... |
Results of coroners inquest.
Hey mister toy tugboat skipper, what makes you
so jealous of me? Is it because you know with your silly restored tugboat you really can't go anywhere, do anything, or even manage to fool yourself into thinking you are enjoying yourself? The only enjoyment you get out of your silly vessel is satisfaction you get when you think people are actually admiring your restoration efforts when all the while they are thinking, "waste of time, effort and money on a pipe dream". Real men such as those of us who live aboard and cruise and voyage under sail do not need the 'cosmetic' approval of a stream of dock passers-by to build up a sagging ego. We are secure in the knowledge that we are living a life centered on enjoying mother nature and the beauty of sail - not the polyurethane, chrome, wax, and buffer world of you showboaters. S.Simon "Rick" wrote in message link.net... Simple Simon wrote: It did not originate with me but I can see the logic of it. Oh Geez, it is truly amazing what passes for logic in your mind. Your reaction, on the other hand, is illogical. It was the reaction of anyone with more than an elementary school education, a few moments exposure to high school physics, and the world outside a mental institution. But then I guess you applied the same logic to your selection of galvanized pipe to repair your broken boom. Master mariner, indeed. If you ever left your mooring you would be a hazard to navigation. As it is you are just a bad joke, a health hazard, and a marine pollutant. Rick |
Results of coroners inquest.
Oz'
Loose from compression? You're asking the right question. I do believe that is what makes the bolts on a bolt on keel come loose. I believe that compression on the fibre glass causes it to take a permanent set (Even if just sitting on the hard) This set gives the, bolt on, the ability to work (Move) On my past boats I found this to be true. I installed packing under the washers before torquing. It gave me a dry hull but was never sure of the bolts outside the hull and the moisture penetrating the fibre glass on the drilled holes? Ole Thom |
Results of coroners inquest.
Ever do any mechanic work? Have you ever used a brass
hammer to say align a crankshaft that is pinned and pressed together? The brass hammer head deforms while the crankshaft counterweight does not. Very small movement of the counterweights can be attained instead of the large, uncontrolled movement that would knock the crankshaft out of alignment on the opposite side of the spectrum. This control and the fact the brass hammer is used because it is soft and does not damage the structure of the crankshaft as a steel hammer would is analogous to the forces applied on the hull of a boat if its keel hits an unmovable object. The same principle applies to a lead keel. The mass of lead, of course, is the primary consideration but the softness of the lead to cushion a blow is another consideration and makes lead a superior material to cast iron in addition the lead's extra mass. It is hard for me to believe you've been in the yachting field very long or done much reading to speak of without knowing this very obvious and widely known fact. S.Simon Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 18:01:36 -0500, "Simple Simon" scribbled thusly: Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 17:08:21 -0500, "Simple Simon" scribbled thusly: Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 16:43:14 -0500, "Simple Simon" scribbled thusly: It's heavier but is it soft enough to cushion possible impacts with the sea bottom? Since it is used to pierce armor I've got a feeling it is pretty stout stuff. S.Simon Cushion? WTF are you talking about? You know, when a sailor runs into a rock or other hard object on the bottom - maybe a coral head it is said that lead, being soft, will cushion the blow by deforming and absorbing some of the force thus sparing the structure of the yacht. S.Simon Bwaaahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaa! Cappy that rates among the most idiotic things that you've ever written!! It did not originate with me but I can see the logic of it. Your reaction, on the other hand, is illogical. S.Simon Cappy could you fill me in on how much cushioning I could expect from say a 4 ton lump of solid lead and how it would achieve that cushioning? Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
So far they haven't been loose, but I'm not losing much by checking
periodically. "Thom Stewart" wrote in message ... Oz' Loose from compression? You're asking the right question. I do believe that is what makes the bolts on a bolt on keel come loose. I believe that compression on the fibre glass causes it to take a permanent set (Even if just sitting on the hard) This set gives the, bolt on, the ability to work (Move) On my past boats I found this to be true. I installed packing under the washers before torquing. It gave me a dry hull but was never sure of the bolts outside the hull and the moisture penetrating the fibre glass on the drilled holes? Ole Thom |
Results of coroners inquest.
So Simple,
We should use Lead Keels, so as not to damage the rocks that we hit?:^) I'm truly amassed at your logic. Are you trying to say the foce that deforms the keel isn't felt by the hull? g Think about it, using your own anology. The blow is to soften the blow on the surface of the struck object. The force on arm,hand and hammer is still the same. Lord,Simple, you can really get your mind rapped and a point in the strangest, dumbest ways Ole Thom |
Results of coroners inquest.
Jon,
What you're doing is correct and necessary to prevent the keel bolts from working. I not saying a bolt on keel isn't any good, it is just that they must be looked after. Award yourself with three taps to the head with a soft lead hammer. smiling Ole Thom |
Results of coroners inquest.
Jax said real mechanics don't use hammers.
SV "Simple Simon" wrote in message ... Ever do any mechanic work? Have you ever used a brass hammer to say align a crankshaft that is pinned and pressed together? The brass hammer head deforms while the crankshaft counterweight does not. Very small movement of the counterweights can be attained instead of the large, uncontrolled movement that would knock the crankshaft out of alignment on the opposite side of the spectrum. This control and the fact the brass hammer is used because it is soft and does not damage the structure of the crankshaft as a steel hammer would is analogous to the forces applied on the hull of a boat if its keel hits an unmovable object. The same principle applies to a lead keel. The mass of lead, of course, is the primary consideration but the softness of the lead to cushion a blow is another consideration and makes lead a superior material to cast iron in addition the lead's extra mass. It is hard for me to believe you've been in the yachting field very long or done much reading to speak of without knowing this very obvious and widely known fact. S.Simon Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 18:01:36 -0500, "Simple Simon" scribbled thusly: Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 17:08:21 -0500, "Simple Simon" scribbled thusly: Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 16:43:14 -0500, "Simple Simon" scribbled thusly: It's heavier but is it soft enough to cushion possible impacts with the sea bottom? Since it is used to pierce armor I've got a feeling it is pretty stout stuff. S.Simon Cushion? WTF are you talking about? You know, when a sailor runs into a rock or other hard object on the bottom - maybe a coral head it is said that lead, being soft, will cushion the blow by deforming and absorbing some of the force thus sparing the structure of the yacht. S.Simon Bwaaahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaa! Cappy that rates among the most idiotic things that you've ever written!! It did not originate with me but I can see the logic of it. Your reaction, on the other hand, is illogical. S.Simon Cappy could you fill me in on how much cushioning I could expect from say a 4 ton lump of solid lead and how it would achieve that cushioning? Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
First the idiot Oz and now you. Oh well . . .
Lord but you people are daft! Allow me to do a little experiment on your jaw, you silly old fart. Let me punch you in the jaw with my fist in a boxing glove. Then, when you regain consciousness, and rub your sore jaw allow me to hit it again my balled up fist without the glove. Whereas all you lost with the fist in glove is consciousness what you lose with my balled up fist is consciousness plus a broken jaw. Your hull is your jaw. The lead keel is my fist in a glove. The cast iron keel is my balled up fist. Understand now you putz? You too, Oz you weenie. S.Simon "Thom Stewart" wrote in message ... So Simple, We should use Lead Keels, so as not to damage the rocks that we hit?:^) I'm truly amassed at your logic. Are you trying to say the foce that deforms the keel isn't felt by the hull? g Think about it, using your own anology. The blow is to soften the blow on the surface of the struck object. The force on arm,hand and hammer is still the same. Lord,Simple, you can really get your mind rapped and a point in the strangest, dumbest ways Ole Thom |
Results of coroners inquest.
I've already been awarded a similar kudo.
"Thom Stewart" wrote in message ... Jon, What you're doing is correct and necessary to prevent the keel bolts from working. I not saying a bolt on keel isn't any good, it is just that they must be looked after. Award yourself with three taps to the head with a soft lead hammer. smiling Ole Thom |
Results of coroners inquest.
Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... I've been in yachting long enough to know that what you ascert is total fiction, an old wives tale. Negative! It's not fiction. It's physics. You are trying to rewrite the laws of physics. To the loony bin with you. S.Simon |
Results of coroners inquest.
Hey Weenie, you'd have to spend a great deal of
time in a gym before you could lift either one. S.Simon Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... Hey Cappy, how about I smack you over the head with a solid 2"lead bar then do the same with a steel one. |
Results of coroners inquest.
Simp's correct Thom. Think of the rock as the hammer. Try hitting an
anvil 100 times with a 20lb steel sledge, then do it with a 22lb plastic or rubber hammer. Scotty "Thom Stewart" wrote in message ... So Simple, We should use Lead Keels, so as not to damage the rocks that we hit?:^) I'm truly amassed at your logic. Are you trying to say the foce that deforms the keel isn't felt by the hull? g Think about it, using your own anology. The blow is to soften the blow on the surface of the struck object. The force on arm,hand and hammer is still the same. Lord,Simple, you can really get your mind rapped and a point in the strangest, dumbest ways Ole Thom |
Results of coroners inquest.
what rock?
Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 20:01:58 -0500, "Scott Vernon" scribbled thusly: Simp's correct Thom. Think of the rock as the hammer. Try hitting an anvil 100 times with a 20lb steel sledge, then do it with a 22lb plastic or rubber hammer. Scotty Then try hitting it with a lead hammer. the same force is applied to the rock. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
Results of coroners inquest.
Oh, pay attention next time.
The lead hammer will have slightly less Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message ... On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 20:07:44 -0500, "Scott Vernon" scribbled thusly: what rock? anvil then.... Captain William Collin, Master of the barque Grimenza wrote in message .. . On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 20:01:58 -0500, "Scott Vernon" scribbled thusly: Simp's correct Thom. Think of the rock as the hammer. Try hitting an anvil 100 times with a 20lb steel sledge, then do it with a 22lb plastic or rubber hammer. Scotty Then try hitting it with a lead hammer. the same force is applied to the rock. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. Oz1...of the 3 twins. I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you. |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:41 PM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com