you took the words right out of my mouth
the cap was a B*****D to get off but worth it for those few mils of play, I
then did a trip from Devon to Surrey

Perseverance!


"BATSI1149" wrote in message
...
not knowing your trailer, I would have thought there should be a plastic
or
metal dust cap in the centre of the hub, unscrew or prise this gently off
and
you should see one large castellated nut with split pin, remove pin undo
large
nut and remove hub.

when you replace bearing do up nut but back off slightly to avoid
overtightening and of course replace split pin hope this helps

On 02 Jul 2003 20:54:18 GMT, (BATSI1149) wrote:

not knowing your trailer, I would have thought there should be a plastic or
metal dust cap in the centre of the hub, unscrew or prise this gently off and
you should see one large castellated nut with split pin, remove pin undo large
nut and remove hub.

when you replace bearing do up nut but back off slightly to avoid
overtightening and of course replace split pin hope this helps

If the bearings are ball bearings and do not fall appart when the
inner and outer tracks are pulled appart (i.e. not annular contact
bearings), do the nut up tight.

If the bearings fall appart when pulled (i.e. taper roller or annular
contact bearings), do the nut up fairly tightly whilst spinning the
wheel/hub. Slacken, and retighten by fingures only, so there is the
hint of rimrock, and repin.

If your bearings do not rummble when the wheel is spun. remove them,
and if taper roller or annular contact ball, wash bearings to clean
them. Repack with grease, refit and adjust as above.

Tony Brooks

On Thu, 03 Jul 2003 08:36:58 GMT, (Tony
Brooks) wrote:

SNIP

If the bearings fall appart when pulled (i.e. taper roller or annular
contact bearings), do the nut up fairly tightly whilst spinning the
wheel/hub. Slacken, and retighten by fingures only, so there is the
hint of rimrock, and repin.

SNIP
Tony Brooks

A word of caution.

The bearings on our boat trailer are sealed, double row, back-to-back,
angular contact bearings. These can fall apart when pulling the hub
off the stub shaft.
The nut holding these bearings on is a one-shot nut (manufacturers
insist it is to be replaced every time the hub is removed), and must
be torqued up to a specified (and quite high) torue to ensure the
correct clearance in the bearings is obtained.

David

Many thanks to all that gave advice.

I have now removed the dust cap, undone the one shot nut and drifted out
the old bearing. This was a one piece sealed for life type (£27.50) and
comes complete with dust cap, new nut and circlip. I have taken it into
a local engineering works to have it professionally pressed into the hub
(£2). It will be ready this afternoon. Under 30 quid doesn't seem too
bad.

Fortunately the otherside seems OK and the trailer has only done about
200 miles since new, but it looks like one of the seals failed on this
bearing and having stood for 12 months gave it the opportunity to
corrode significantly.

I will be taking a spare bearing kit with me and if I do not need to use
it during the trip (god willing), I will have the nearside bearing
changed after I return.

Once again many thanks to all who responded.

Regards, Eddie.

On Thu, 3 Jul 2003 12:40:06 +0100, "Edward Bray"
wrote:

Many thanks to all that gave advice.

I have now removed the dust cap, undone the one shot nut and drifted out
the old bearing. This was a one piece sealed for life type (£27.50)
snip

For info.

Have recently done wheel bearings on two boat trailers found that one
of the bearings is a MK1 golf, front wheel bearing, £15ish from an
independent VW specialist. Significant saving on a 4 wheel trailer!

Size OD 64, ID 34, Length 37

Of course, you don't get circlips, nuts dust shield etc.

HTH

David