On 18-Mar-2005, "BCITORGB" wrote:

See what you think about this: I cut deep into the 2x6 crosspiece
(rectangular cut) and then create a sling using a fairly wide webbing
strap (perhaps 1.5" wide to correspond to the 1.5" cross-section of the
2x6).

The sling idea is a good one, but I'd consider a combination of cutting
a bit into the top of the 2x6 and also making little towers of wood to
hold the ends of the webbing.

Also, the ideal place to support the kayak is at the bulkheads - just
behind and at the front of the cockpit. The bulkheads provide plenty
of strength and stiffness to keep the hull from deforming.

The issue here, I guess, is
ensuring that the straps can be securely mounted to the crosspiece
(grommets etc, eh?).

If you make a couple of "towers" to hold the straps, then this is easy.
Bolt the towers to the crosspiece (two bolts will do it - sloping the
towers to the outside will allow for more length to distribute load).
The towers could be 2x2 or 2x4 and only need to be tall enough to clear
the hull from anything underneath. Round the tops of the towers and
run the webbing over to the outside. Double (or triple) the webbing
by folding it over and use a hot nail to burn a couple of holes in
it. When you cut the webbing, use a lighter or match to burn the
cut end and melt the webbing so it won't fray.

Screw thru the holes with stainless steel wood screws and use
stainless versions of these things (cup washers):
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=40096&cat=3,41306,41316&ap=1
to hold the webbing.

Don't forget to allow for a place to attach the webbing that will
hold the kayak down on the rack. This can be big stainless eye bolts,
for example.

Mike

Michael suggests:
================
If you make a couple of "towers" to hold the straps, then this is easy.
Bolt the towers to the crosspiece (two bolts will do it - sloping the
towers to the outside will allow for more length to distribute load).
The towers could be 2x2 or 2x4 and only need to be tall enough to clear
the hull from anything underneath. Round the tops of the towers and
run the webbing over to the outside. Double (or triple) the webbing
by folding it over and use a hot nail to burn a couple of holes in
it. When you cut the webbing, use a lighter or match to burn the
cut end and melt the webbing so it won't fray.
==============

As always, much obliged!

Cheers,
Wilf

On 19 Mar 2005 13:35:19 -0800, "BCITORGB"
wrote:


As always, much obliged!

You do realize that this could take more in time and money than it
would to just buy the Thule racks and extender, right?

Long as you're straight on that and enjoying yourself, good kayaking
at ya'.

Cyli
r.bc: vixen. Minnow goddess. Speaker to squirrels.
Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless.

http://www.visi.com/~cyli
email: lid (strip the .invalid to email)

Cyli asks:
==============
You do realize that this could take more in time and money than it
would to just buy the Thule racks and extender, right?
=================

Time for sure! Money, perhaps.

And I'm ever mindful of the fact that, with my complete lack of
woodworking skills, this could all be a huge cock-up. Yes, Cyli, I'm
afraid Very afraid!

Cheers,
Wilf
============

On 19-Mar-2005, Cyli wrote:

You do realize that this could take more in time and money than it
would to just buy the Thule racks and extender, right?

Time - yes, money - no and besides, makin' stuff is fun.

Mike

On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 06:53:34 GMT, "Michael Daly"
wrote:

On 19-Mar-2005, Cyli wrote:

You do realize that this could take more in time and money than it
would to just buy the Thule racks and extender, right?

Time - yes, money - no and besides, makin' stuff is fun.

Mike


Problem with making stuff is that then you want to make more stuff.
It's like enjoying buying stuff. Pretty soon you've paid a lot for
stuff or the stuff to make stuff and you've got no place to put stuff.

We do have to warn him that if this works, he might start looking at
some of the simpler plans for how to make his own kayak, don't we?

Cyli
r.bc: vixen. Minnow goddess. Speaker to squirrels.
Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless.

http://www.visi.com/~cyli
email: lid (strip the .invalid to email)

Cyli wrote:
On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 06:53:34 GMT, "Michael Daly"

wrote:

On 19-Mar-2005, Cyli wrote:

You do realize that this could take more in time and money than it
would to just buy the Thule racks and extender, right?

Time - yes, money - no and besides, makin' stuff is fun.

Mike


Problem with making stuff is that then you want to make more stuff.
It's like enjoying buying stuff. Pretty soon you've paid a lot for
stuff or the stuff to make stuff and you've got no place to put
stuff.

We do have to warn him that if this works, he might start looking at
some of the simpler plans for how to make his own kayak, don't we?

Cyli
r.bc: vixen. Minnow goddess. Speaker to squirrels.
Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless.

http://www.visi.com/~cyli
email: lid (strip the .invalid to email)

We should probably start him off with some papyrus reeds! TnT

On 20 Mar 2005 22:31:55 -0800, "Tinkerntom" wrote:

(snipped)

We should probably start him off with some papyrus reeds! TnT

Is there, by the way, a midwestern US equivalent of papyrus reeds?
It'd be fun to float down river in for an overnighter on an island.
Especially if it were a day that the aluminum hatch was headed
downstream, too. More fun than doing willows and a tarp, which I have
contemplated a time or two.


Cyli
r.bc: vixen. Minnow goddess. Speaker to squirrels.
Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless.

http://www.visi.com/~cyli
email: lid (strip the .invalid to email)

Michael Daly wrote:
On 18-Mar-2005, "BCITORGB" wrote:


See what you think about this: I cut deep into the 2x6 crosspiece
(rectangular cut) and then create a sling using a fairly wide webbing
strap (perhaps 1.5" wide to correspond to the 1.5" cross-section of the
2x6).


===================

PROGRESS REPORT

The sling idea bit the dust, as the hull-shaped cuts into the 2x6's
worked quite well.

Today I u-bolted the roof contraption onto the factory r-rack. Not
elegant (a function of my lack of woodworking skills), but when you're
working with 2x6's and 2x4's, there's room for some error and elegance
goes out the window (I find solace in "form follows function" -- it
functions).

What impressed me, once I got the frame bolted down, was that there was
absolutely no squeaking (which I had anticipated). I had thought that
the 2x4-on-roof-interface would "squeack".

In the case of my roof, there are 4 "channels" lengthwise along the
roof. I have constructd the frame in such a way so as to have the 2x4
logitudinal pieces fit into these channels (luckily, these channels are
just over 1.5" wide, so a very nice fit).

Once I'd mounted the frame, I decided that wing-nuts were what were
required for the u-bolts -- another trip to the hardware store...

Next project: glue the foam rubber to the hull-shaped cut-outs in the
2x6 cross pieces. So, a question to all of you who have had a part in
this design: what's the best glue for attaching foam rubber to wood?
Ordinary wood glue?

As I look at this thing you guys had me create, I realize an added
benefit. With 4 corner posts, mounted somewhere in the yard, the frame
will also serve as a place on which to "store" the kayak when it's not
on the van. Pure genius, people.

Thanks.

Wilf
++++++++++++++++



Mike

frtzw906 wrote:
Michael Daly wrote:
On 18-Mar-2005, "BCITORGB" wrote:


See what you think about this: I cut deep into the 2x6 crosspiece
(rectangular cut) and then create a sling using a fairly wide
webbing
strap (perhaps 1.5" wide to correspond to the 1.5" cross-section of
the
2x6).


===================

PROGRESS REPORT

The sling idea bit the dust, as the hull-shaped cuts into the 2x6's
worked quite well.

Today I u-bolted the roof contraption onto the factory r-rack. Not
elegant (a function of my lack of woodworking skills), but when
you're
working with 2x6's and 2x4's, there's room for some error and
elegance
goes out the window (I find solace in "form follows function" -- it
functions).

What impressed me, once I got the frame bolted down, was that there
was
absolutely no squeaking (which I had anticipated). I had thought that

the 2x4-on-roof-interface would "squeack".

In the case of my roof, there are 4 "channels" lengthwise along the
roof. I have constructd the frame in such a way so as to have the 2x4

logitudinal pieces fit into these channels (luckily, these channels
are
just over 1.5" wide, so a very nice fit).

Once I'd mounted the frame, I decided that wing-nuts were what were
required for the u-bolts -- another trip to the hardware store...

Next project: glue the foam rubber to the hull-shaped cut-outs in the

2x6 cross pieces. So, a question to all of you who have had a part in

this design: what's the best glue for attaching foam rubber to wood?
Ordinary wood glue?

As I look at this thing you guys had me create, I realize an added
benefit. With 4 corner posts, mounted somewhere in the yard, the
frame
will also serve as a place on which to "store" the kayak when it's
not
on the van. Pure genius, people.

Thanks.

Wilf
++++++++++++++++



Mike

Wilf, Good to hear that things are still coming together!

I might suggest that instead of wingnuts, you check out "nuts with
nylon inserts" which you don't have to worry about working their way
loose.

Wing nuts are convienent for you, but also for the thief in the parking
lot who won't have much of a challenge to remove your boat, rack, and
the whole kitnkabboodle! Won't you be putting the rack on and off the
van once per season. Use a wrench that one time, though I realize you
think you are power tool challenged, I am sure that we can talk you
through how a wrench works. Especially the kind with no power cords
attached!

Your last suggestion about the four post in the yard, may be genius???

Where were you planning on storing your boat anyway? Outside, or in the
Garage? I don't know whether it is a good idea to store in the sun
which will cause UV damage eventually. And especially if it is always
stored in the same position. The best idea is clean out the garage so
that you can get the boat in there, and then have a garage sale for all
that good stuff you won't be needing now like lawn mowers and snow
blowers. Take the extra windfall of cash and buy the two wetsuits, and
go kayaking. The lawn can wait, if the neighbors don't like the long
grass, tell them they are welcome to mow it for you! Regarding snow, It
will melt off the drive come Spring! TnT